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Broken tap - IRO hack n tap

Old May 8, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #46  
Teephphah's Avatar
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From: Papillion, NE
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by TheHouseOG
Did you get the drilling jig? It was the easiest part (least stressful) of the whole operation. Just put that thing on and know for the a fact that you are centered. But back out whenever you have to to clear the metal shavings and dunk in some oil.
You bet your bippy I got the drilling jig! That's the only thing that convinced me I'd be able to do this myself in an honest to goodness manly-man, "made, not bought" kind of way. And then this thread comes along and points out Murphy's Law possibilities that I hadn't even know existed.

Not only do me and drilling (cleanly) into metal not have a fantastic historic relationship, but I'm also the type of guy who would see a broken tap in my hacked up drive shaft and tend to think, " welp, F it. I tried. It's not gonna work. Time to junk the XJ and go buy that Audi. They've technically got 4 wheel drive, too. It's just . . . different. Plus, the seat warmers will actually work."

For the record, I would end up coming back to the project, but it would be about a year and a half later . . . after I'd had sufficient time to cool off.

I, uh . . . I sometimes don't deal with setbacks all that well. It's part of my charm. Part of what makes me so much fun at parties and other social gatherings.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 10:47 AM
  #47  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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^ You will be fine. I have done the hack on two cases and only broke one tap. LOL
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Old May 8, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #48  
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From: South Shore of Long Island
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Haha teep. Drill slow and use the cutting oil from ace or sears. When you start to tap it, it should be difficult to turn (as your cutting ) but not hard to do. That was my issue. The first couple rotations were easy. Quarter turn or half a turn then back out completely and re-oil tip. I ignored the change in difficulty and when it snapped, each quarter turn had gotten more and more difficult which meant there were shavings getting built up inside. It got hard to turn but I didn't realize it. If you have access to an air compressor definitely use it to blow out the drill hole after each turn. Hold a rag over the end so no oil or metal shavings get shot out.

I'm starting to understand what all the older and more experienced jeeps guys around here were getting at. Even when you fix it, it doesn't mean your jeep is now fixed.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 12:14 PM
  #49  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by TheHouseOG
After doing the whole thing I'm getting vibrations (a lot smaller now but still noticeable) I haven't done the rear shims yet and haven't figured out what angle shims I'll need.
Get a compass from lowes. Only a couple of bucks in the hardware section by the levels. Park on flat land. Check DS angle then check angle of the diff pinion. Diff pinion needs to be same as DS angle. This is how I've heard it to be done. The pinion needs to be pointed straight at the TC
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Old May 8, 2014 | 12:22 PM
  #50  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Use a magnetic screwdriver to clear the chips out of the hole
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Old May 8, 2014 | 12:22 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Get a compass from lowes. Only a couple of bucks in the hardware section by the levels. Park on flat land. Check DS angle then check angle of the diff pinion. Diff pinion needs to be same as DS angle. This is how I've heard it to be done. The pinion needs to be pointed straight at the TC
You mean an angle finder
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Old May 8, 2014 | 12:49 PM
  #52  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep

You mean an angle finder
Potato/ potato same difference lol. But yea angle finder :P
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