We'll **** me sideways.... I used to think I was moderately intelligent. But this is no longer the case. I just went outside to try to drive this thing on the front shaft only. I was in four wheel drive last night when I got back to my house and am still in 4-high. The rear drive shaft is completely removed but when I put it into drive nothing happens. The engine revs up and it doesn't seem like it's engaged. I also tried 1st and 2nd/3rd. 2000 cherokee sport, 242 transfer case. What am I missing here?

 

some of the cut out shavings may be making it harder to remove, blow some compressed in in there. then spray it w/ wd-40 to lube it. good luck.

 

are you using part time or fulltime mode ? you would need to use part time mode , im pretty sure. drove my 98 w/ a 242 for 2 weeks once w/ front ds only.

 

So I'm in 4 high so I turn on jeep, put in neutral, start rolling down the drive way, put into four wheel part time, and then put into drive?

On a busy-ish street and don't want to **** up and have to try to push this thing either back up or somehow to side of the road.

 

Lol you are slightly a newb to jeep huh? My advice is after this ordeal, read up on your jeep.


Full time 4wd on a 242 allows the transfer case diff to spin meaning front and rear can spin at different rotations. if you try to drive fwd it's going to send power to the rear instead, kinda like a front axle diff and how a loose tire will spin. If you put it in to 4 part time, then the diff in the transfer case gets locked. Meaning both front and rear will spin the same always. Meaning you can drive fwd with that.


Your not gonna do anything bad to your transfer case. The only way to do that is if you had the early model tail cone on it which would spew transfer case oil out of it if there was no rear drive shaft on.

 

Yes. OP, the NP242 has a 48/52 torque split when in 4FT. 48% to front, 52% to the rear. It's basically an AWD function in the transfer case.

 

Man...talk about your all time bad days, LOL...might be time to suck up the pride and have someone who knows what to do get it done...when you have them extract, pay the little bit extra and have them finish tapping the hole at the same time. Chock it up as a learning experience, and for the future, try tapping out some pieces of scrap to get a feel for how to do it...and use different metals, they all react differently depending on hardness...the shaft you tried to tap is harder than, say, mild steel, and will be much more difficult to tap...good luck, and again, keep us posted.

 

Haha new to jeep? Is it that obvious? I also can't wait to check out the pool on the roof.

I put in part time and had no issues. THANKYOU for the info.

So far on this jeep I've changed the radiator, exhaust manifold, auxiliary cooling fan,
Budget lift-thunderbird coils, S-10 leafs, front F-250 links but nothing really drive oriented. Everything really was good..... Haha

 

Well the shop I brought it to took care of the broken tap and cleaned up the inside threads I had done. He gave me some tips on drilling and tapping threads. Charged me 50 bucks. (Well worth it considering the mess I had made)

I lined everything up and started the final install in the parking lot. He was busy as hell and I didn't want to be in his way. Used some locktight red on the inside hardened bolt from iron rock. And everything went on nicely. No more vibration or feeling the slip yoke sliding in and out when I accelerate or let off the gas. I will try to get it up to high way speeds later on today before I put all the tools away on this. Thanks for the help/info everyone.

Next step - Front lower and maybe upper control arms and a longer track bar (maybe relocating the stock one since I'm fairly cheap)

 

Remember, read and search, then read some more lol

 

My H-n-T SYE is supposed to get here tomorrow. I had just managed to convinde myself that I was going to be able to pull this off without too much trouble.

You have now managed to scare the crap out of me.

Darn it.

 

What's scary is cutting the output shaft with engine running, tranny in reverse (no driveshafts).
A better idea is for a helper to rotate the front output yoke while cutting the rear. The sparks are intense and bounce around so wear a face shield and protective clothes..

 

This! A full face mask made it more comfortable with long sleeves. Running in first gear while cutting was actually not that scary. Slow and steady. Lots of sparks but as the cut goes in it will keep your blade straight. Knowing where you want to cut.... Now that was the hard part.

 

Did you get the drilling jig? It was the easiest part (least stressful) of the whole operation. Just put that thing on and know for the a fact that you are centered. But back out whenever you have to to clear the metal shavings and dunk in some oil.

 

After doing the whole thing I'm getting vibrations (a lot smaller now but still noticeable) I haven't done the rear shims yet and haven't figured out what angle shims I'll need.