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Behr Deck Over Paint for Headliner

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Old 08-27-2016, 01:22 AM
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Thumbs up Behr Deck Over Paint for Headliner

Hi all,

We recently purchased a 1999 Cherokee Classic. In our first week we did a bunch of cleanup, and also decided to pull the headliner out. We didn't want to replace it with cloth, and I was adamant about having a light color (so bedliner was off the table). Then I recalled the Behr Deck Over we'd used on a porch a few years ago, that it had gone on thick and remained flexible, so we chose to use that product to recoat the headliner.

We also lined the area between the roof and headliner with some R-13 insulation, which dramatically reduced road noise, and I have already found helps to reduce heat from our southern sun. fiberglass insulation is the most practical and highest deadening/insulating product that's readily available. We rejected reflective bubbles for their low R value, and didn't want to use polyurethane panels due to their rigidity and concern with difficulty of installing the headliner over them. Either remove or cover the seats when installing fiberglass insulation, otherwise you could get some irritating fiberglass fibers stuck in them during the installation.

Photos are attached. Easy process, and we are very pleased with the results. Smell dissipated within a day, and it is now a fiairly smooth, and easily cleanable/wipeable surface. I would recommend others consider this same product for this use.

Regards,
Aaron























My partner taping up insulation. It's just standard home R-13 insulation, now sandwiched between the headliner and roof. Dramatically improved road noise. We also coated the cavities of all the doors with peal n seal (dynamat type stuff).





Headliner after painting with Behr Deck Restore, a rubberized non-skid finish.





Headliner after painting with Behr Deck Restore, a rubberized non-skid finish.





Headliner after painting with Behr Deck Restore, a rubberized non-skid finish.





Cleaned up very well!









Still have to recover the visors, but that's for a different day. Probably will use a vinyl of some sort to make them easier to wipe clean.

Last edited by Trombahonker; 08-27-2016 at 12:42 PM.
Old 08-27-2016, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Trombahonker
Hi all,

We recently purchased a 1999 Cherokee Classic. In our first week we did a bunch of cleanup, and also decided to pull the headliner out. We didn't want to replace it with cloth, and I was adamant about having a light color (so bedliner was off the table). Then I recalled the Behr Deck Over we'd used on a porch a few years ago, that it had gone on thick and remained flexible, so we chose to use that product to recoat the headliner.

We also lined the area between the roof and headliner with some r-13 insulation, which dramatically reduced road noise, and I have already found helps to reduce heat from our southern sun.

Photos are attached. Easy process, and we are very pleased with the results. Smell dissipated within a day, and it is now a fairly smooth, and easily cleanable/wipeable surface. I would recommend others consider this same product for this use.

Regards,
Aaron
Great ideas; both the insulation and using the Behr product. I just re-covered and reinstalled my headliner. I definitely would have stolen the insulation idea.

I was wondering about whether the Behr Deckover was paintable so I went to Behr's website, and I see that it comes in 54 different colors, nice...
Old 08-27-2016, 09:08 AM
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The headliner looks good.

However-

Here's where I s--t on your thread-

For whatever reason, you removed your seats. Some unassuming nimrod is going to take you up on your 'great idea' and grab some unencapsulated fiberglass insulation and release millions of fibers in the process. They will hate you every time they sit in those seats......they will hate you more as they chuck those seats and replace them.

There are better products.........reflective bubble pack insulation for one.
Old 08-27-2016, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeep Driver
The headliner looks good.

However-

Here's where I s--t on your thread-

For whatever reason, you removed your seats. Some unassuming nimrod is going to take you up on your 'great idea' and grab some unencapsulated fiberglass insulation and release millions of fibers in the process. They will hate you every time they sit in those seats......they will hate you more as they chuck those seats and replace them.

There are better products.........reflective bubble pack insulation for one.


HAH you're right. We removed them to do a very deep clean and didn't to get insulation on them.Either remove the seats or cover them when installing fiberglass insulation. Reflective bubble insulation has a very low R value and wasn't what we wanted. What would be best is 3/4" polyurethane foam insulation, but I was concerned about the compressibility of it. I knew once the R-13 foam was up, there would be no issues. Have reinsulated many walls and was comfortable using it.

Yes, the Behr Deck Over is tintable and we chose one of the light greys, I think they call it "Silverstar".

-a

Last edited by Trombahonker; 08-27-2016 at 10:55 AM.
Old 08-27-2016, 12:33 PM
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Very nice install! The deck finish looks great on the headliner

Any issues with re-installing the headliner with all of that insulation? Or does it compress fairly easily. May have to steal that idea as well - I was going to use some Fat Mat Rattle Trap sound deadening on the metal roof itself, and sandwich some of that foil bubble-pack insulation as well.

How much did the insulation for the headliner cost you?
Old 08-27-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
...

Any issues with re-installing the headliner with all of that insulation? ...

How much did the insulation for the headliner cost you?

It compresses very well. You may want to peel a 1" layer off to make it a bit thinner - this was on a '99 with the fiberglass/foam headliner, not sure how it would work or how much room is between the headliner and roof on the pre-97s.

The roll of insulation cost $15 at Lowes and we used about 2/3. I put the remainder in the attic
Old 08-27-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Trombahonker
It compresses very well. You may want to peel a 1" layer off to make it a bit thinner - this was on a '99 with the fiberglass/foam headliner, not sure how it would work or how much room is between the headliner and roof on the pre-97s.

The roll of insulation cost $15 at Lowes and we used about 2/3. I put the remainder in the attic
That would be R-11.............that is available.


Any 'R' value is lost at the window...........sorry, just does not work that way.

1/4 or 3/8 foam would have been just as, if not more, efficient.
Old 08-27-2016, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeep Driver
That would be R-11.............that is available.


Any 'R' value is lost at the window...........sorry, just does not work that way.

1/4 or 3/8 foam would have been just as, if not more, efficient.


This is the product we used, standard faced 2x4 R-13 insulation: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cor...RF10/202585857


Obviously advertised values are different than practice. Alas, I think this was a more practical solution than using polyurethane foam due to the contour-conforming properties. You're certainly welcome to use whatever you'd like, but this worked very well for us.

~A
Old 08-27-2016, 04:20 PM
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Well, this was dual purpose. You're right about having reduced the R value when compressing the insulation. However, Radiant heat is only part of the issue. By compressing the fiberglass insulation, it created a pretty dense layer of material, which has significant sound-deadening properties that reflective material does not. We put Peal-n-seal above it directly on the headliner, then the R-13, and between both it made a large difference.

The other factor is cold-weather usage, which is half our year. In these cases, this style insulation is definitely better than foil insulation.


To us the biggest points were the sound-deadening characteristics, and the ease of installation.

~A
Old 08-27-2016, 04:25 PM
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One of the problems with 'stuffing' insulation is that, for example, R-19 in a 2x4 wall with put constant pressure on the drywall causing nail or screw pops, may take a year or two but it's guaranteed to happen.

IOWs, what you have done is placed constant outward/downward pressure on your headliner. It will sag over time.
Old 08-27-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeep Driver
It will sag over time.

Hmm, maybe. We tried to feather it at all the edges and the headliner went up in to place with relatively little effort. There's about 1.5" of space between the liner and overhead. But you're probably right about a little bit of pressure in there. I guess we'll just see! Worst case, it took about 4 hours to take out and put back, so I could do that again to repair. But I really doubt that'll be an issue given the amount of support the headliner has throughout.
Old 08-27-2016, 06:23 PM
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Tough crowd...
Old 08-28-2016, 09:37 AM
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I have a general rule of thumb.

If you can buy it at Home Depot, it probably doesn't belong on your Jeep.

Paint, nuts, and bolts, are the general exception here.

That said, I won't poo-poo on your choice. It worked for you, and you're happy. And I'll give you this: definitely thinking outside the box...

Run it for a while and report back.
Old 08-29-2016, 09:28 AM
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I just removed several posts due to bickering.

You guys have issues with each other, take it to PM. This is a warning.

Keep the thread on topic please.
Old 08-29-2016, 09:32 AM
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I thought about using that silver, flexable insulation on.my floor before I lay another layer of fiberglass mat and Line-X. So please, report back after some time passes to let us know how this worked out for you.


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