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Battery cable and terminal upgrade

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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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Default Battery cable and terminal upgrade

I'm looking to upgrade my battery terminals and + and - cables. Looking to go to probably 0 gauge on cables, anyone done this or know best places to get good quality and priced cables and terminals, preferably a kit where I don't need to do wiring just simple bolt in, but wiring it all up isn't a big issue.
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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I used 00 Welding cable when I relocated my battery to the back. I got mine at the Local Napa. SUmmit also sells the wiring and terminals to do it.
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html

This guy is top notch. I know he's on NAXJA, not positive if he's a member here...username is "5-90"
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by goalieman24
http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html

This guy is top notch. I know he's on NAXJA, not positive if he's a member here...username is "5-90"
Jon's stuff is very good, well thought out, and worth every dollar. I noticed an increase in stock lighting after install.

Here is the page w/the prices, they have increased since me buying but what hasn't in 4 years, and the proper lengths which could come in handy.

http://www.kelleyswip.com/price.html
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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I know some one who use his stuff.. and he was very happy. That wasnt an option for me.. since I moved my battery to the back, added a battery cutoff switch.
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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x3... KWiP's mains
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by goalieman24
http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html

This guy is top notch. I know he's on NAXJA, not positive if he's a member here...username is "5-90"
I'm here too - I'm on six or seven national boards, all under the same username...

I'm only a paid member on two at the moment (NAXJA and JeepForum,) and I'm a User everywhere else.
Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by PingPong
I know some one who use his stuff.. and he was very happy. That wasnt an option for me.. since I moved my battery to the back, added a battery cutoff switch.
If you'd have given me measurements, I could have made your wiring. I also do custom work, y'know...

And my work isn't limited to Jeeps, either. I've done OHVs, I've done a couple of autocross cars, and I've even done a motorcycle! All I need is length and termination, and anticipated use and loading (so I can help you decide what gage works better for you.)
Old Aug 8, 2011 | 02:30 AM
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I recently did upgraded my cables to 4g out of sheer necessity as the factory cables were so corroded and rotted they literally fell apart while I was removing them. It took an hour or so worth of work, that's including the time it took to actually make the cables. I used copper Terminals and soldered/heat shrank all the ends.

The "hardest" part was the starter connector, I cut the plastic/rubber connector down the middle and retained the factory green trigger wire. I also cut the double pole bridge bar off the battery to PDC connector. I don't know if it was necessary, but I did it anyway.

Last edited by Veeb0rg; Aug 8, 2011 at 02:34 AM.
Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
If you'd have given me measurements, I could have made your wiring. I also do custom work, y'know...

And my work isn't limited to Jeeps, either. I've done OHVs, I've done a couple of autocross cars, and I've even done a motorcycle! All I need is length and termination, and anticipated use and loading (so I can help you decide what gage works better for you.)

It was kinda a last minute mod.. and the Local Napa had everything I needed in stock and made the cable while I waited.
Old Aug 8, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
I recently did upgraded my cables to 4g out of sheer necessity as the factory cables were so corroded and rotted they literally fell apart while I was removing them. It took an hour or so worth of work, that's including the time it took to actually make the cables. I used copper Terminals and soldered/heat shrank all the ends.

The "hardest" part was the starter connector, I cut the plastic/rubber connector down the middle and retained the factory green trigger wire. I also cut the double pole bridge bar off the battery to PDC connector. I don't know if it was necessary, but I did it anyway.
For the OBD-I PDC? I've heard a couple times that you don't have to do it, but I always advise retaining that lug as a bridge between the studs (AFAIK, the studs each feed their own Buss bar - I don't know if there's an internal connexion. Safest to assume not.)

The starter motor trigger lead can be reterminated with a #10 ring lug - I have an instruction sheet on doing just that, for people who might need it. It's easy enough, and cutting that moulded rubber block off loses about an inch and a half of wire (which isn't a big problem.)

I never did like ChryCo doing that moulded rubber block thing - it confuses people doing wiring mods, and it's an unnecessary convenience for their techs (if you can't sort out the wiring on the back of an alternator, go back to school to learn to read. If you can't sort out the wiring on a starter motor, turn in your toolkit and pick up an idiot stick so you can push it around the shop and do something useful...

(Yeah, I'm cranky. I've no patience nor tolerance for incompetence. If the "tech" needs a self-sorting wiring setup, he shouldn't be a tech.)
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Hey thanks for all the info guys! Sounds like I'm gonna go with one of those setups, sounds like a good upgrade.
Old Aug 9, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
For the OBD-I PDC? I've heard a couple times that you don't have to do it, but I always advise retaining that lug as a bridge between the studs (AFAIK, the studs each feed their own Buss bar - I don't know if there's an internal connexion. Safest to assume not.)

The starter motor trigger lead can be reterminated with a #10 ring lug - I have an instruction sheet on doing just that, for people who might need it. It's easy enough, and cutting that moulded rubber block off loses about an inch and a half of wire (which isn't a big problem.)

I never did like ChryCo doing that moulded rubber block thing - it confuses people doing wiring mods, and it's an unnecessary convenience for their techs (if you can't sort out the wiring on the back of an alternator, go back to school to learn to read. If you can't sort out the wiring on a starter motor, turn in your toolkit and pick up an idiot stick so you can push it around the shop and do something useful...

(Yeah, I'm cranky. I've no patience nor tolerance for incompetence. If the "tech" needs a self-sorting wiring setup, he shouldn't be a tech.)
Yeah, ODB1 PDC. I figured better safe then sorry, it only took a few seconds to free that little "bridge" piece anyway. For the starter lug, I just took one of the Wire terminal ends put it in a vice and bent it over almost 90 degree's. Worked like a charm.

Honestly I cut the rubber block piece in half just using a set of wire cutters and a little hand strength.
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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So with a set of spots up top and two smaller lights, along with a winch would you recommend upgrading wiring from stock? Thinking about replacing alternator but nothing over 150A. I bought a kill switch the needs to be wired in so replacing positive cable any way. I am new to this so if this seems basic..sorry!
Old Feb 12, 2014 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by pstrman
So with a set of spots up top and two smaller lights, along with a winch would you recommend upgrading wiring from stock? Thinking about replacing alternator but nothing over 150A. I bought a kill switch the needs to be wired in so replacing positive cable any way. I am new to this so if this seems basic..sorry!
Honestly? Yes, especially if you're going to upgrade your alternator to the 136A unit later (you should, once yours fails.)

Not only is the OEM wiring usually "just enough" for stockers, but the engineers have their thought processes corrupted by accountants - who tend to automatically knock things down a size wherever they can get away with it, just to save a few pfennigs. Beancounters should never be involved in engineering decisions, and any that try to get themselves there should be beaten about the head & neck with a brick until they promise to never do so again, on pain of death.

So, in increasing your demands, you're going to increase your loads and very likely your full-load duty cycle, which means you're going to be loading the mains rather more than the factory intended. And, the incrementally higher conductor loss will be a factor in power consumption as well.

Upsizing your mains wiring will help to reduce conductor losses (power consumption due to intrinsic resistance. There's no such thing as a "zero-ohm lead"...) which will improve electrical efficiency of the system. Besides, if you upgrade your alternator, it's a cinch that you're doing so because you think the extra capacity will be helpful - and it's a certainty that you're going to use it sooner or later (human nature being what it is.)

So, start planning your upgrade path all around, and hit me backchannel if you need my help.



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