Do yourself a favor and just do 0awg with a 160a alternator from a GC. I did the 4awg 136a upgrade but it would've been better to just do the 160a.

 

I guess I should have mentioned that my Jeep is an 89. The 136A's I have found seems to be for newer models or am I misinformed? Thanks

 

You are not, and that is a VERY important factoid!

You have the Delco CS-130 alternator, not the Nippondenso. If the ND fits (I'm not sure,) you will still have a problem wit the fact that the CS-130 is internally regulated, while the ND is not.

The CS-130 can be had with up to 140A max capacity COTS, although you may have to swap the front housing to get it to fit (this is easier than swapping the internals, tho.) Also, any competent shop can take your CS-130 and throw 140A internals into it, just as easily as an OEMR rebuilt - since the internals are the same size.

See my notes elsewhere on the subject.

 

So I have been researching battery/alternator upgrades recently, and the headlight wiring upgrade. Seems like everything I read (anywhere) leads back to 5-90, you know your stuff, and don't seem to mind sharing, thats awesome.

I have a 91 and seems the only alt I can find is the 90A, even though according to my build sheet, mine originally came with a 130A. I just got this jeep a couple years ago and can only assume it isn't the original alt since it isn't even the original motor. I already decided to do the charging system and headlight wiring upgrades, any thoughts on upgraded alternators? I have heard the GC (wj?) will work with a small amount of grinding?

Sorry to thread jack and bring this back up.

 

Your 1991 should have come with a 70A or 90A from the factory - I do not believe the 117A/120A option was available that year.

Doesn't mean it can't be fitted - since all three use the same frame size.

As far as going larger? If you've got a 136A/140A unit in place, some grinding should have been necessary to the bracket - and this will usually be visually apparent (if you're not sure, see if you can take a clear picture of the area from mounting screw to mounting screw and post it, I'm sure someone here will be able to tell you.) The 136/140A and 160A units are both physically larger - at the core - than the 117A/120A, and about 1/4" of material will need to be removed from the engine in between the mounting screws.

(Natch, if the alternator is going to be upgraded from OEM, or the electrical loading will be increased - pushing up the duty cycle at full output - upgrading the mains leads is strongly recommended... And, do note that that circuit IS fused from the factory, as it has been on every single vehicle I've ever serviced, going back to a 1955 Corvette. And probably earlier...)

If your engine has been swapped, I think you can simply relegate your factory build sheet to "Archival Interest Only" - since you know major components have been changed. So, paste it up in your Jeep scrapbook and take a new inventory.

As I said earlier, removal of about 1/4" thickness of material will allow the 136A/140A and 160A units to be fitted - hit me backchannel if you'd like help with sorting out your mains wiring.

(Frankly, I'd rather an old thread be resurrected with new information than a new thread created, and information being scattered about - BZ!)

 

I just upgraded mine and all I can say is www.kelleyswip.com best money I have spent on mine as that was a weak point. Super service well done and a nice guy to do business with.

No boom, boom here just lights 10 Hellas and a 9.5 winch.

 

That's 5-90 on here. Lol

 

Thank you - I can ask no higher praise!

 

Agreed! These cables were of fantastic quality, i finally installed mine this week. The only bonus could be a label showing which one goes where bit once you look at the lengths it's easy to figure it out. I'm amazed all those fit in that box. Thanks!

 

I'm working on that as an idea - but I can't yet find an option that isn't either: A) considerably less than permanent, or B) foolishly expensive.

The closest I've gotten so far would be a Dymo RHINO labeller, which takes cartridges of heat-shrink tubing for printing, but it's not a cheap solution. And, I'd probably offer it as an option, with a bit of an upcharge (not that I like doing it, but I'd have to at first.)

I am always open to suggestions, but I would definitely expect any marking scheme for the cable to be relatively permanent...

 

How about a sharpie and number wrong them 1-5,etc? Simple is always best.

 

The quality of the cables is excellent, and service is awesome. The only cable, that may need labeling in my opinion, is the rear of head to firewall. As a newb, I mistook that and the B-to fender. Those are similar in length, and 1 lug is larger. You could try using inkjet address labels, and label the firewall cable. FWIW

 

Tried that on a couple of experimental cables - didn't work well. And, many colours do not show up well on black heat-shrink or black Neoprene...

 

Sent you an e-mail. Looking to buy a cable upgrade package.

 

Thread resurrection time...

Does anyone have a recommendation for wiring upgrades? I'm looking to buy cables cut to length with terminations, similar to what 5-90 was selling. He doesn't appear to be active on here, and his website is down.