axle swap questions ????
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 309
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From: Wrightstown, NJ
Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
What do you plan on doing with the Jeep? What's the max tire sire you're looking to run?
Chrysler 8.25 29 spline is a direct bolt in upgrade, Dana 44 from an older XJ is a direct bolt in upgrade or you can go with the Ford 8.8 but that will require cutting off the brackets and welding new ones on. Those all come down to availability and how much work you want to put into it.
Chrysler 8.25 29 spline is a direct bolt in upgrade, Dana 44 from an older XJ is a direct bolt in upgrade or you can go with the Ford 8.8 but that will require cutting off the brackets and welding new ones on. Those all come down to availability and how much work you want to put into it.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 858
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From: parker, co
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The ford 8.8 would be a great axle to swap to. It takes a little work but nothing a welder can't handle(spring perches and shock mounts). Also you get disc brakes. It's a great upgrade for a wheeler
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
ok, so 35's and all types of wheeling. what are your skills? can you wrench? weld? can you make brackets?
If you can't weld i would get a 8.25/d44 rear. chrome shafts and locker/gears, and chrome shafts for the front and locker/gears.
If you can I would go big with a D44 front and a D44/D60 rear. do it once. after all the cost of the axles aren't much more then the already planned cost of gears, lockers, shafts, bearings, seals, brackets ect.... building a D30 will cost as much as building a D44, building a rear D44/C8.25 will be close in cost to a D60. just the difference in getting the axles up front. Axle swaps are all or nothing to me, but thats just my opinion.
If you can't weld i would get a 8.25/d44 rear. chrome shafts and locker/gears, and chrome shafts for the front and locker/gears.
If you can I would go big with a D44 front and a D44/D60 rear. do it once. after all the cost of the axles aren't much more then the already planned cost of gears, lockers, shafts, bearings, seals, brackets ect.... building a D30 will cost as much as building a D44, building a rear D44/C8.25 will be close in cost to a D60. just the difference in getting the axles up front. Axle swaps are all or nothing to me, but thats just my opinion.
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ok, so 35's and all types of wheeling. what are your skills? can you wrench? weld? can you make brackets?
If you can't weld i would get a 8.25/d44 rear. chrome shafts and locker/gears, and chrome shafts for the front and locker/gears.
If you can I would go big with a D44 front and a D44/D60 rear. do it once. after all the cost of the axles aren't much more then the already planned cost of gears, lockers, shafts, bearings, seals, brackets ect.... building a D30 will cost as much as building a D44, building a rear D44/C8.25 will be close in cost to a D60. just the difference in getting the axles up front. Axle swaps are all or nothing to me, but thats just my opinion.
If you can't weld i would get a 8.25/d44 rear. chrome shafts and locker/gears, and chrome shafts for the front and locker/gears.
If you can I would go big with a D44 front and a D44/D60 rear. do it once. after all the cost of the axles aren't much more then the already planned cost of gears, lockers, shafts, bearings, seals, brackets ect.... building a D30 will cost as much as building a D44, building a rear D44/C8.25 will be close in cost to a D60. just the difference in getting the axles up front. Axle swaps are all or nothing to me, but thats just my opinion.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I did D44's F+R, its works for me and the axles just landed in my lap so i went with it as my max tire size will be 35's... but if i where looking i would look for a 9"/D60...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 855
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
And remember a 44/9 or D60 will likely be full width. If you want to keep your track, you can do waggy axles, do the D44/upgraded D30, narrow the full widths, or have custom axles made.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
^ 6 lug club! lol, I also liked the fact that the waggy axles where correct width. didn't need to narrow it, which saved a ot of money for me. but the J20 or maybe J10 trucks had a rare narrow track D60 that was 61.5". had I known this when I did mine I would've tracked it down, its rare and I have only read about it on axle sites so don't knwo its 100% true but have read it from more then 2-3 resources...
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
only for big tires... 37+ the diff hits everything lol, 14B is a rock plow. my buddys 14BFF gets in the way sometimes and he has 40" tires...
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