Axle info..cv vs ujoint
#1
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Axle info..cv vs ujoint
So I heard that the cv joint axles are stronger than the u joint axles.
Would like to hear every ones opinion on this subject.
what cv joints will fit a94 xj.
Would like to hear every ones opinion on this subject.
what cv joints will fit a94 xj.
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Year: 1995
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CV joints are stronger but also more expensive than Ujoints. Its like $30 for 2 ujoints compared to $200 for CV axles. But Idk where you would put CV joints since ive never seen or hear of them on an XJ.
edit: didnt know about d30 CV shafts but $1000 CV shafts vs $100 back up shaft with decent Ujoints
edit: didnt know about d30 CV shafts but $1000 CV shafts vs $100 back up shaft with decent Ujoints
Last edited by TheJerm; 06-11-2012 at 10:16 AM.
#3
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Some older 80s Cherokees came with dinky cv joint shafts. These specific shafts were weaker then the u joint shafts.
Aftermarket cv shafts verse u joint shafts. I plan on buying RCV chromo shafts. CV shafts are better for multiple reason. They are just as strong while steering is at full lock as they are when your steering is strait. You can get up to 45 degrees of misalignment and the cv joint won't fail.
And my favorite that not very many people consider. First understand that a single u joint creates misalignment while at an angle, just like with drivelines. As your steering wheel is turned and your u joint is going through rotation it will literally pull the shaft out if the diff slightly then push it back in. Pulsing at a very high speed. This misalignment isnt an issue if there isnt any torque on your shafts like when coasting through a corner. This is because the shaft can slide freely in and out of the diff to take up that misalignment. Now, lets say you are spinning your tires in 4 wheel drive to get out of a hole with u joint shafts and your tires turned. Since there is torque on the axle shaft it makes it diffucult for the splines to pulse in and out of the diff. So where does that misalignment go? Have you ever felt your steering wheel start to shimmy and shake in these situations? The u joint is actually forcing your axle shaft strait because it can't take the misalignment. This causes extra stress on your shafts, diffs, knuckle ball joints, unit bearings, and most of all your steering. I have seen multiple steering boxes torn off because of this and the driver did not have the sense to let off the gas or turn his wheels strait.
Those reasons there, and most of all the last reason is why I will be spending almost twice as much for RCV shafts when I narrow my 44.
Aftermarket cv shafts verse u joint shafts. I plan on buying RCV chromo shafts. CV shafts are better for multiple reason. They are just as strong while steering is at full lock as they are when your steering is strait. You can get up to 45 degrees of misalignment and the cv joint won't fail.
And my favorite that not very many people consider. First understand that a single u joint creates misalignment while at an angle, just like with drivelines. As your steering wheel is turned and your u joint is going through rotation it will literally pull the shaft out if the diff slightly then push it back in. Pulsing at a very high speed. This misalignment isnt an issue if there isnt any torque on your shafts like when coasting through a corner. This is because the shaft can slide freely in and out of the diff to take up that misalignment. Now, lets say you are spinning your tires in 4 wheel drive to get out of a hole with u joint shafts and your tires turned. Since there is torque on the axle shaft it makes it diffucult for the splines to pulse in and out of the diff. So where does that misalignment go? Have you ever felt your steering wheel start to shimmy and shake in these situations? The u joint is actually forcing your axle shaft strait because it can't take the misalignment. This causes extra stress on your shafts, diffs, knuckle ball joints, unit bearings, and most of all your steering. I have seen multiple steering boxes torn off because of this and the driver did not have the sense to let off the gas or turn his wheels strait.
Those reasons there, and most of all the last reason is why I will be spending almost twice as much for RCV shafts when I narrow my 44.
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Those aren't constructed to handle the abuse of bigger tires, lockers, and serous off roading. I would run the abs shafts with 760 u joints for up to 33s. 35s and on I would run an aftermarket RCV shaft.
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Yeah I got some of abs shafts. Just so much easier to swap out cv then it is to press ujoints all the time.
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#8
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I wouldn't put rcv's in anything smaller than a 60, or maybe a ford hp44.
#9
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^x2 Never had issues running 33's and 35's on stock d30, Its all about driving skills and habits.
Did a quick search and WJ axle shafts wont fit because the dimensions are different, take that with a grain of salt.
Did a quick search and WJ axle shafts wont fit because the dimensions are different, take that with a grain of salt.
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Did I say in a Dana 30? He was asking about a Dana 30 and the axle shaft strength. He didn't ask what axles he should be running for each tire size. I wouldn't suggest putting any money into the Dana 30. I think 35s and up you should definitely run a Dana 44 or bigger. I do think that RCVs in a HP 44 is definitely worth the investment. As I
Mentioned earlier, it's not just about the extra strength but the smoothness of the operation. Saving ball joints, bearings, and steering boxes.
Mentioned earlier, it's not just about the extra strength but the smoothness of the operation. Saving ball joints, bearings, and steering boxes.
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Hey thanks to all for the info. Will just keep my u joints. How do you fix u joints on the trail. Every ujoint I ever done Ineeded my press. Not taking that to wellsville. LOL
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Originally Posted by 94xjohio
Hey thanks to all for the info. Will just keep my u joints. How do you fix u joints on the trail. Every ujoint I ever done Ineeded my press. Not taking that to wellsville. LOL
Last edited by gvns8; 06-11-2012 at 01:31 PM.