mudderx

I asked everybody what kind of lunchbox lockers they had and what they liked about them. It came down to two kinds Aussie lockers and Detroit/Richmond lockers. I was going to get a Richmond Powertrax locker but I just picked an almost new Aussie locker off Craigslist for $175. Before I install this thing would somebody who knows what their doing double check these instructions for me ( from http://www.4x4xplor.com/aussielocker.html )? They look and sound reasonable to me but I want a second opinion befor I tear into my axle. Sorry to post something this long...

What You Need
________________________________________
• Aussie Locker - Part#XD-13027
• 2 - Bottles of 85W-140 Gear Oil
• Axle Grease
• 1/2" (12 Point), 5/8" and 11/16" Sockets
• Ratchet
• Torque Wrench
• Breaker Bar
• Standard and 3 lb. Hammer
• Flat Chisel
• Pry Bar
• 3/16" Punch
• Bench Vice
• Vice-Grips
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands
• Wheel Chocks
• Zip Ties
• PB Blaster
• Oil Drain Pan
• Gasket Scraper
• Hi-Temp RTV
• 1 Gallon Milk Jug
• Brake cleaner (spray can)
• Hand pump or funnel (for refilling diff when done)


Installation
________________________________________
1. Open your Aussie Locker box and verify that you have all the parts indicated on the parts list. Also make sure that you have all the supplies listed above before you start anything. Then, park your Jeep on a level surface, engage your parking brake, chock your wheels, crack loose your lug nuts (but do not remove at this time), jack up your front axle one side at a time and then rest it on jack stands so that your tires are clear of the ground.

2. Remove your front wheels and place them underneath your frame rails for added protection should your Jeep fall off the jack stands.

3. Place an oil catch pan underneath your differential and then remove the fill bolt on the differential cover using the square drive head of a 3/8" ratchet. Next, remove all but one (top one - just leave loose) of the bolts securing your differential cover using a 1/2" socket. You may have trouble getting to a couple of the bolts due to the track bar right in front of it. Don’t remove the track bar! Put your jack on the frame and raise it an inch or two (remember, your jack stands stay under the axle)

4. Place a flat chisel between the differential and cover and then carefully tap it with a hammer until the cover separates just a bit. This may take quite a bit of “tapping”. Position the chisel in different places around the diff and tap it until is breaks loose. Then, Slowly pry open the cover and let your gear oil drain into the catch pan. Remove the last bolt on top and set your differential cover aside for now.

5. Thoroughly clean out the internal components of your differential using brake cleaner and a clean rag or paper towels. Pour your gear oil into a 1-Gallon Milk Jug and be sure to take it to your local auto parts store for recycling.

6. Remove the 2 bolts securing your disc brake calipers using a 1/2" socket. Then, pull off the entire caliper and zip tie it on top of your control arm so that it doesn't fall.

7. Now, if you look at the back of the spindle, you should see a total of 3 bolts (1 up front and 2 behind) that have a 12 pointed head. Remove these bolts using a 12 point 1/2" socket. Some PB Blaster and a breaker bar may be required to do this.

8. Carefully pull your axles out about 6". You do not need to completely remove them for this installation.

9. Okay, back to your differential. Remove the four bearing caps securing your carrier in the differential using a 5/8" socket. Please pay attention and make note as to where each of the bearing caps goes and in what orientation they need to be in.

10. Using the differential housing as leverage, place a pry bar between it and the carrier inside and then carefully tap it loose using a 3 lb. hammer. You just want it out enough that you can remove it by hand and not let it drop to the ground. Be ready to catch it! Some times the carrier is ready to fall out with minimal prying.

11. Clean up your carrier the best you can of gear oil using brake cleaner and a clean rag or paper towels. Put a plastic sandwich over the bearings at each end of the carrier to keep dirt out (use a rubber band to hold the baggie over the bearing). Place the carrier on a clean work bench and mark it and the ring gear so that you know where to put things back. Note - be gentle when you put the carrier in the vice. You don’t want to scratch the carrier housing.

12. Place the carrier into a bench vice with the ring gear bolts facing up and proceed to remove these bolts using an 11/16" socket. Remove the carrier from the bench vice and remove the ring gear from it. Some effort may be required but you should be able to do this by hand. If it doesn’t want to come out with hand pressure, use a rubber mallet (but do not hit the gear teeth!).

13. Set your carrier back on your work bench with the larger disc end up. If you look carefully, you should see a small hole that has a rolling pin inside securing the pinion shaft in place. Take hammer and a 3/16" punch and tap out this pin.

14. With the rolling pin out, you should be able to remove the pinion shaft and subsequent spider gears with ease. If the pinion shaft sticks, a couple of light taps of a hammer and punch should knock it free.

15. The pinion shaft and thrust washers will need to be reused so be sure to clean them up and check them for wear or damage. Set aside all the other spider gears, you will not be needing them.

16. Gather up all the Aussie Locker components, the pinion shaft and thrust washers and apply axle grease to them. The grease will help to keep everything together like glue as you assemble them together and into your carrier.

17. With all your components greased, slip a thrust washer onto each of the Aussie Locker axle gear and insert them into the appropriate location of your carrier. Driver side thrust washer on the driver side and passenger side on the passenger side.

18. Now, if you look at your Aussie Locker cam gears, you should see 4 holes on the smooth side of each. 2 will be shallow and fully enclosed and the other 2 will be deep and partially open on the side of the gear. Insert a pin (with the stepped end facing into the holes) into each of the deeper and partially open holes on both cam gears. Once in, the pins should sit relatively flush to the surface of the cam gear.

19. Insert the Aussie Locker spacers into each of the cam gears (make sure that the flat sides will be facing each other once assembled) and then install them onto the axle gears (teeth to teeth) one at a time inside your carrier.

20. Once inside your carrier, rotate the Aussie Locker components so that the pinion shaft hole lines up. Then, slip the pins you installed earlier down into the holes on the opposite side cam gear. Using a small screwdriver, install a spring onto each of the pins as shown in the pic to the left. The step on the top of the pin and the recessed hole on the cam gear will hold the springs securely in place.

21. Slide your pinion shaft back through the carrier and Aussie Locker and secure it into place with the rolling pin you removed earlier.

22. Reinstall your ring gear onto the carrier being mindful that the marks you drew on it earlier line up. Then, place your carrier back into your bench vice and reinstall the ring gear bolts in a star pattern. Torque these bolts to 80 ft. lbs., again in a star pattern.

23. Clean up your carrier and Aussie Locker one last time using brake cleaner making sure it is free of debris or metal pieces, remove the plastic baggies from the bearings and then carefully reinstall it back into your differential housing. Make sure your bearing caps go back on the way they came out and torque the bolts to 45 ft. lbs.

24. Carefully slide your axle shafts back in, bolt them into place and then torque the 3 bolts down to 75 ft. lbs. Just to make sure everything has been installed correctly, go to one side of your axle and rotate your hub by hand. You should see that the opposite side is now rotating too.

25. Cut the zip ties holding your disc brake calipers, reinstall them and torque the caliper bolts to 11 ft. lbs.

26. Back to your differential, cover up your carrier and newly installed Aussie Locker with some paper towels and then proceed to thoroughly clean the RTV off your differential housing and cover using a gasket scraper. Do a good job here or else you will end up doing it again.

27. Once cleaned, remove the paper towels out of your differential, clean up any gasket debris and then prep the mating surface of it and the cover by spraying and then wiping them down thoroughly with brake or carb cleaner.

28. Apply a continuous 1/4" bead of RTV along the mating surface of the differential cover as shown in the diagram to the right and then, carefully place it onto your differential making sure not to move it around too much. Fasten the bolts in a criss cross pattern to 30 ft. lbs. of torque. It is very important that you do NOT over torque your bolts and installation of the cover should be done within a 5 minute after applying the RTV.

29. Now, fill up your differential with the appropriate gear oil recommended for your axle. I have a Dana44 rear end with a Trac-Loc which requires a special friction modifier to work properly. Most synthetic gear oils like Valvoline make already have it mixed in. Using a cheap bottle pump ($2 at PepBoys) will make it a lot easier to do this task. Keep filling your differential until gear oil starts to ooze out of the fill hole and then re-install the fill bolt to 25 ft. lbs. of torque.

30. Reinstall your wheels, jack up one side of your jeep and remove one jack stand so that one wheel is still up in the air. Go to this wheel and rotate it by hand. If you installed everything correctly, it should rotate freely. Do not be alarmed if you here a ratcheting or clicking while the tire rotates. This is normal for an autolocker and will be virtually transparent on the road. This clicking may be louder the first couple times you turn the wheel, as the oil has not covered everything yet.

31. Remove your last jack stand, torque your lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs., remove your wheel chocks and then take your Jeep out for a spin.

That should be it! You are now locked up and ready to take trails you would have never dreamed of and on your own power. Don't forget to take your gear oil into your local auto parts store be recycled and not dump it in the trash or worse. . .

fallenknight308

Thats a good write up,
Here are a couple more
LINK LINK2
Aussie used to have their PDF for download but I cant find it.
GL

mudderx

Ya I looked too before I settled on this one. All I found were broken links. Hopefully someone will read this and scan their instructions.

mudderx

I contacted the company and they emailed me the pdf. If anyone needs the actual pdf (has pics) PM me and I'll email it to you. Here is the text only in case somebody needs it. And once again the file is bigger than CF allows so...

AUSSIE LOCKER®
INSTALLATION MANUAL
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR SPICER (DANA) MODELS, AMC-20, FORD 8.8,
G.M. 10 & 12 BOLT, AND TOYOTA
FOR C-CLIP AND NON-C-CLIP AXLES
INTRODUCTION
Your new Torq-Masters “Aussie Locker®” will provide you with the maximum in advanced traction performance
available. The Aussie Locker is an Automatic Precision Locking Differential—it does not require a
switch or external electric or air control lines to activate nor does it contain friction clutch packs. Whenever
terrain conditions would normally cause wheel spin to occur, the Aussie Locker automatically transfers
up to 100% of the available torque to the wheel with the most traction. The result is a dramatic
increase in the performance capabilities of your vehicle. This is why the Aussie Locker is called the
“Traction To Go Anywhere” advanced traction enhancement system. A 4WD vehicle fitted with one
Aussie Locker will, in general terms, have more than twice its original off-road capability. A 4WD vehicle
with lockers in both front and rear differentials will have truly amazing traction, enabling it to travel over
seemingly impossible terrain with less effort that ever before.
Installation of your new locker is accomplished by removing the differential gears from the differential
case and installing the Aussie Locker components in their place. This type of installation can be made by
the weekend mechanic who is familiar with the operation of a differential and who is able to exercise
appropriate care during the installation process. Normal installation takes about two to three hours when
these instructions are followed. They also assume that the installer has a shop manual covering his
vehicle and that he is familiar with the procedures used in removing wheels, axle shafts, etc. Shortcuts
should not be attempted unless the installer is very familiar with the shop manual procedures for his
vehicle.
Great care has been taken in developing these instructions for the proper installation of the Aussie
Locker; however, the final results are the responsibility of the installer. After the locker is installed, the
safe operation of the vehicle is the responsibility of the driver—anyone who drives it should read the
Operator’s Guide for additional information on how to safely operate your new locker-equipped vehicle.
We suggest that you read these instructions before beginning your installation to familiarize yourself with
the steps performed for your particular axle type and to determine what tools you might need.
2
Contents
INTRODUCTION .................................................. .................................................. .... 1
STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL OPERATION .................................................. ................... 3
PRE-INSTALLATION INFORMATION .................................................. ......................... 3
AUSSIE LOCKER PARTS .................................................. ........................................... 4
ADDITIONAL PARTS USED.............................................. ........................................... 4
SHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES .................................................. ................................... 4
DIFFERENTIAL DESIGNS .................................................. .......................................... 4
PRELIMINARY AXLE DISASSEMBLY STEPS .................................................. ............... 5
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—C-CLIP AXLES .................................................. ....... 5
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—THIN RING GEAR .................................................. ... 5
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—THICK RING GEAR .................................................. . 6
INTEGRAL CARRIER........................................... .................................................. ..... 6
REMOVABLE CARRIER (THIRD MEMBER) .................................................. ................... 6
EXAMINATION AND PREPARATION OF THE PARTS AND THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—ALL
MODELS .................................................. .................................................. ............ 7
EXAMINATION OF THE PARTS .................................................. .................................. 7
CHECKING CASE TOLERANCES........................................ ........................................... 7
PREPARING THE REMAINDER OF THE PARTS .................................................. ............. 8
INSTALLATION OF THE AUSSIE LOCKER .................................................. .................. 8
PREPARATION .................................................. .................................................. ..... 8
INSTALL THE LEFT SIDE C-CLIP AND FIRST CAM GEAR ................................................. 8
INSTALL THE RIGHT SIDE C-CLIP AND SECOND CAM GEAR ........................................... 9
ASSEMBLE THE PINS AND SPRINGS .................................................. .......................... 9
.................................................. .................................................. ......................... 9
MEASURING THE CENTER GAP .................................................. ................................. 9
INSTALL THE PINION SHAFT
(C-CLIP/THIN RING GEAR AXLES) .................................................. .......................... 10
THIN RING GEAR .................................................. ................................................. 10
THICK RING GEAR .................................................. ............................................... 11
ASSEMBLE THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE.............................................. ........................... 11
INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—INTEGRAL CARRIER ............................................. 11
INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—REMOVABLE CARRIER (THIRD MEMBER) ................. 11
TESTING THE LOCKER ASSEMBLY .................................................. .......................... 12
COMPLETING YOUR ASSEMBLY.......................................... ...................................... 12
TESTING YOUR VEHICLE........................................... ............................................... 12
NOTES............................................. .................................................. ...................... 13
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY STATEMENT .................................................. ........... 13
“AUSSIE LOCKER” TWO YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY ................................................. 13
3
STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL OPERATION
The standard, or “open” differential provides two functions:
1. Transmits engine power via the drive train to the wheels to move the vehicle; and
2. Allows differential action between the two wheels–permits them to rotate at different speeds
during cornering to eliminate drive train damage and tire scuffing.
The standard differential design always provides equal amounts of power to each wheel. Thus, in normal
driving with no tire slippage, half (50%) of the incoming engine power is transmitted to each wheel, or
50-50. In a slippery traction situation, if one wheel spins with only 10% of the engine power applied to it,
the other wheel also receives only 10% of the power, or 10-10. This means that the vehicle is trying to
move with only 20% of the total power applied to the ground such that it may not move. The vehicle is
stuck.
Your new Torq-Masters Aussie Locker overcomes the traction deficiencies of the open differential by
providing as much as 100% of the available power to either wheel (100-0) when the other one is on a
slick surface or even off the ground in a hole, yet it also allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds
during a turn. This means that if one wheel is on solid ground with excellent traction and one wheel is on
ice and would slip with 10% of the power applied, that the one on solid ground would receive 90% of the
power and the other one would receive 10% (90-10). The 90%-power wheel will move the vehicle just
fine, so you wouldn’t even know that you’d have been stuck.
For you techie types, the reason that this unequal division of power can occur is that the axle shafts act
like torsion bars. Power is applied to both axles; when the 10% wheel (low traction) begins to slip, the
axle shaft for the 90% wheel (good traction) wraps up a little more as engine power is applied. The 10%
wheel slips a little more and the 90% axle wraps up a little more until enough power is finally applied to
move the vehicle. It may move before all 90% is applied, but these illustrations show the theoretical
maximums that may come into play. As your vehicle climbs up a hill, this torsion bar effect transfers
power back and forth instantaneously from side to side as one wheel, then the other one, slips a little and
then regains traction. Your new Aussie Locker thus effortlessly and automatically gives you the most
power to the wheel with the most traction, and you just keep right on going. Onward!
PRE-INSTALLATION INFORMATION
The Torq-Masters Aussie Locker is designed to fit into a standard or “open” differential case. Limited-slip
or Posi-Traction differentials use clutch packs, such that these differential cases are not compatible with
the Aussie Locker. If you have a limited-slip differential you will need to purchase an equivalent open
differential case, pinion shaft and side gear thrust washers and have the case installed prior to the
installation of the locker. Setup of the case includes setting the differential bearing pre-load and the ringand-
pinion backlash, which generally must be done by a shop having the right knowledge and tools.
As with most factory differentials, the Aussie Locker is designed to be installed with a factory thrust
washer under each axle gear. It is imperative that your thrust washers are not worn, warped, cracked or
scored and that they be of the original thickness. If your washers are worn or damaged, purchase new
ones. They are cheap and are good insurance. If you do not install thrust washers of the proper thickness
and in good condition, the contact patterns will show the difference which will void the warranty.
4
AUSSIE LOCKER PARTS
The Aussie Locker kit consists of the following parts:
Two cam gears
Two axle gears
Two spacers
Four pins
Four precision springs
Installation Manual
Supplemental Installation Information (if applicable)
Operator’s Guide
Sticker
Additional parts for some models:
Cross shaft (pinion shaft)—The Dana 35 models come with a special cross shaft.
Thrust block—Future models may include a thrust block where required.
ADDITIONAL PARTS USED
You will use your existing side gear thrust washers and cross shaft(s), assuming that they are in excellent
condition. These parts must be replaced if your differential is high-mileage or if wear is evident. If you are
also replacing axle shafts as part of this installation and if your differential has a thrust block, check to see
if it needs to be changed or if end-play adjustment is required.
Note: Thrust Blocks: Toyota Land Cruiser installations do not use the factory thrust block; Jeep AMC-20
differentials do use the thrust block. (If axle shaft end play is involved (AMC-20), the thrust block is required
for correct installation.)
Also note that for all differentials the spider gear thrust washers are NOT used.
Before starting the installation be sure that you have replacement gear oil of the type recommended by
the vehicle manufacturer, and any seals that will need to be replaced. If the vehicle is to be used in hot
weather we recommend the use of 85-140 gear oil, which will provide adequate lubrication and minimize
any sound. Also, synthetics can be used with the Aussie Locker. A dial caliper or a micrometer and set
of feeler gauges are also needed for checking the various existing parts to determine if they
need replacing.
SHOP MANUAL PROCEDURES
As stated above, it is important for you to have your shop manual available and know the R&R procedures
that apply to your particular vehicle. The Aussie Locker instructions will describe in detail how to
install your new locker, but they will only mention in general terms about how to remove backing plates
(if even necessary for your vehicle), pull out the axle shafts, remove the differential case, etc. It is up to
the installer to determine the proper method for axle housing and differential disassembly, and be able to
remove the pinion shaft from the differential case so that the locker can be installed.
DIFFERENTIAL DESIGNS
These instructions will assume that the installer has already consulted the shop manual and/or the
internet and various club resources and determined what type of differential design is in his vehicle. There
are two types of axle housing designs in which the Aussie Locker is used. These are: (1) Integral carrier,
such as in the Spicer (Dana) line; and (2) Removable carrier (third member), such as in Toyota Land
Cruisers (although in these vehicles the rear carrier generally is not removed from the vehicle). In turn,
these two types of axles have several differential designs, including: (1) C-Clip axle shaft retention (Ford
8.8, Spicer 35, Land Cruiser with thrust block, etc.); (2) Bearing retainer axle shaft retention (Jeep AMC-
20 with thrust block); (3) Full-floating axles (Land Cruiser fronts, some rears, early Dodges, etc.). The
Aussie Locker design will operate with all these various types of differentials.
5
PRELIMINARY AXLE DISASSEMBLY STEPS
NOTE: the following steps and paragraphs are suggestions that we provide to help you with the successful
installation of your new Aussie Locker. You are ultimately responsible for the safe installation of your new
locker and the safe operation of your new locker-equipped vehicle.
The following general steps are done prior to removing the rear differential; similar steps are used for the
front unit. They are meant only as a guide to be used in disassembling the axle for your particular vehicle.
Consult your shop manual for the exact steps that are needed.
1. Position the vehicle on level ground and block the front wheels.
2. Loosen the rear lug nuts by 1/2 turn if the tires will need to be removed. Generally, for C-clip axles, the
tires can remain in place.
3. Release the emergency brake and put the transmission and transfer case in neutral.
4. Carefully jack up the rear axle and place it on jack stands.
5. Remove the tires (if needed).
6. Loosen the bolts around the differential cover or the around the third member. Drain the gear oil. Remove
the cover.
7. If you have determined that your vehicle has a C-clip differential, proceed directly to the section below
entitled C-Clip Axles.
8. Observe the ring gear to see if it is thin enough so that you can pull out the pinion shaft. If so, proceed to
the section below entitled Thin Ring Gear.
9. If the ring gear is too thick to be able to pull the pinion shaft out past the teeth, proceed to the section
below entitled Thick Ring Gear.
Notes:
1. The pinion shaft is usually retained by a special bolt or by a roll pin or even by a solid pin. In some
differentials a bearing cap must be removed to enable the bolt or pin to be removed using a small wrench
or a long punch. Consult your shop manual for the exact procedure.
2. If you find one thrust washer, there are two (1 per each axle gear). Sometimes they “stick” to the backs
of the side gears or to the case and one seems to be missing. Check very carefully.
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—C-CLIP AXLES
The following steps are a general guide to removing the differential assembly from C-clip axles. Consult
your shop manual for the detailed steps required to open up the differential housing to expose the
differential. C-clip axles are the easiest design for differential replacement; in these axles the differential
case remains in the vehicle and the installation of your Aussie Locker is done in the vehicle rather than on
the bench. Note that with only one person, removal of the tires makes sliding the axle shafts in and out
easier.
1. Remove the pinon shaft.
2. Remove the thrust block (if present).
3. Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C-clips.
4. Pull each axle shaft out by about three inches.
5. Remove the spider gears and side gears and all thrust washers.
6. Proceed to the section below entitled Examination and Preparation of the Parts.
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—THIN RING GEAR
If you have determined that the ring gear is thin enough so that the pinion shaft can be removed without
further disassembly, do not remove the differential case from the vehicle. Your new Aussie Locker can be
installed with the differential case remaining in place. If your differential is in a third member with no
removable cover on the axle housing, remove the third member from the vehicle and place it on the
bench. If the ring gear is thin enough, follow instructions 1, 3 and 4 below but do not remove the
differential case from the carrier. (As an example, this describes Land Cruiser front differentials which
have full-floating axles.)
6
1. Remove the pinion shaft.
2. Pull each axle shaft out by about three inches.
3. Remove the spider gears and side gears and all thrust washers.
4. Proceed to the section below entitled Examination and Preparation of the Parts.
REMOVAL OF THE DIFFERENTIAL—THICK RING GEAR
If the ring gear is too thick to be able to pull out the pinion shaft, the differential case must be removed
from the carrier and the ring gear removed from the case. This process requires removal of the differential
bearing caps and outer races. In some differentials the differential bearing pre-load and ring and pinion
backlash are set by shims, while in others these values are set by bearing adjusters. Both the pre-load
and backlash must be correct for your differential assembly to operate properly. Assuming that your
differential has already been operating satisfactorily, the following removal steps are a guide to help you
re-install your differential case into the carrier without having to measure and set up these values again.
Be sure to refer to your shop manual for additional information.
INTEGRAL CARRIER
(Carrier is a part of the axle housing—holds the axle tubes, diff case and drive gears)
1. Check your shop manual for the proper procedure for removing the differential case. In the Spicer (Dana)
line, for example, the shop manual will usually recommend the use of a large tool called a “carrier
spreader;” however, many mechanics will instead remove the case with a pry bar. Consult your club and
internet sources for the procedure for you to use.
2. Mark the differential bearing caps as to orientation and side with a punch or marker. Remove the bearing
cap bolts and caps.
3. Pull out the axle shafts by about six inches.
4. Pry out (remove) the case. As the case is being removed, BE SURE TO NOTE THE LOCATIONS OF THE
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIMS (note that in some Dana Spicer axles the shims are located under the
carrier bearings and thus cannot be removed or lost unless the bearing is pressed off). It is extremely
important to put these shims back in the same location and order during re-assembly.
5. Mark the differential bearing outer races as the case is coming out so that they can be re-installed on the
same sides.
6. Mark the ring gear to case location.
7. Remove the ring gear from the case.
8. Remove the pinion shaft retaining pin/bolt.
9. Remove the pinion shaft.
10. Remove the spider gears and side gears and all thrust washers.
11. Proceed to the section below entitled Examination and Preparation of the Parts.
REMOVABLE CARRIER (THIRD MEMBER)
(Carrier is not a part of the axle housing—holds only the diff case and drive gears)
1. If your particular axle housing has a cover, and the pinion shaft can be removed without removing the ring
gear (such as in Land Cruiser rear C-clip axles), do not remove the third member but refer to “C-clip Axles”
or to “Thin Ring Gear” above (depending on your particular design). Otherwise, remove the third member
from the vehicle and place it on the bench. (See the shop manual for the steps required, which will include
pulling the axle shafts out a few inches, disconnecting the drive shaft, draining the gear oil and unbolting
the carrier.)
NOTE: If your third member has been taken out of the vehicle but has a thin ring gear such that the pinion
shaft can be removed (many Land Cruiser front axles, for example), DO NOT remove the case from the carrier,
but proceed to step 9 below.
2. Mark the differential bearing caps as to orientation and side with a punch or marker. Also, and this is
extremely important, mark the left or right side and rotational position of the bearing adjusters so that
they can be re-installed in exactly the same way.
7
3. Rock the ring gear back and forth to get a feel for the amount of backlash present (usually around .008).
This step will allow you to check during re-assembly that the bearing adjusters are in their correct
positions and are not one turn off. (When in doubt use a dial indicator and stand to measure the before
and after backlash).
4. Remove the adjuster locks, bearing cap bolts and caps.
5. Mark the differential bearing races so that they can be re-installed on the same side.
6. Lift the differential case from the third member.
7. Mark the ring gear in relation to the differential case.
8. Remove the ring gear.
9. Remove the pinion shaft.
10. Remove the spider gears and side gears and all thrust washers.
11. Proceed to the next section entitled Examination and Preparation of the Parts.
EXAMINATION AND PREPARATION OF THE PARTS AND THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—ALL MODELS
EXAMINATION OF THE PARTS
1. Check the two large side gear thrust washers for wear, cracks, warping or galling. If they are not in
excellent condition, replace them. The small washers under the spider gears will not be used.
2. Examine the pinion shaft. If it is worn by more than .002 where the side gears were located, purchase a
new one from your dealer.
3. Check the hardness of the pinion shaft. In many instances we have found that the stock factory shaft is
somewhat soft. Try to scratch a groove in it with a file near the center. If you can do so, the shaft is
soft. If the file tends to slide and not cut, the shaft hardness is probably acceptable. If it is soft replace
it, and also be sure to check the new shaft. If the old shaft is worn under the spider gears, definitely
replace it.
4. Thoroughly clean the differential housing to remove any old dirt and metal particles.
5. If the installation is in the front differential, now would be the time to inspect/replace the inner axle seals.
6. Examine the differential case and bearings. If there are any chips or cracks in the case, and/or the
bearings are worn, replace them—but remember that the ring and pinion backlash and bearing pre-load will
need to be set up again.
7. If your differential has a thrust block and it is to be re-used (Jeep AMC-20, for example), examine the
block and be sure that it is in good condition. If it needs to be replaced, be sure to set up the axle shaft
end-play again (see your shop manual).
CHECKING CASE TOLERANCES
1. Apply some medium to heavy axle grease to the teeth of the Aussie
Locker axle gears, to the back surface and around the hub in the center.
Using thick grease will help with holding the parts in place later on.
2. Place a thrust washer on each axle gear.
3. Install both axle gears in the differential case.
4. Place a spacer onto each axle gear, with the open end over the hub of
the axle gear. The grease will hold it in place.
5. Carefully slide the pinion shaft all the way into the case (past the
spacers).
6. With a screwdriver, carefully pry apart the gap between the spacers and the pinion shaft. This step will
compress out the grease and help assure that the following measurement is accurate.
8
7. Using feeler gauges, measure the gap between the spacers and the
pinion shaft. For each spacer it should be between..006 and .020.
If it is within tolerance, remove the pinion shaft and only the spacers
for use later. If it is not within tolerance, either the case is worn or the
thrust washers are worn. The locker needs to have this gap within
tolerance to operate properly.
Failure to ensure the proper tolerances will show up in marks on the
locker components and will void the warranty.
8. Remove the pinion shaft and spacers, but leave the axle gears and
thrust washers in place.
PREPARING THE REMAINDER OF THE PARTS
1. Be sure that your work area is clean and that no
dirt or metal particles are present and that the
grease is clean and free from contaminants.
2. Apply some grease to the teeth of the cam
gears, to the slots for the pins, and to the hole
in the center. The grease will help hold the parts
in place and will lubricate them until the gear oil
circulates.
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the pins and
springs.
4. Install a pin into each of the long slots in the
cam gears. Be sure to position the step on the
pin toward the bottom of the slot, toward the
teeth (later, the spring will snap over the step).
5. Install a spacer in the center of each cam gear.
Orient the spacer so that it will fit down over
the hub in the center of the axle gear when
installed (the same way as when the clearances
were checked).
INSTALLATION OF THE AUSSIE LOCKER
C-CLIP AXLES
PREPARATION
Make a small tool from a 6" piece of coat hanger wire. Form it in a wide “U” with the ends bent up by
about one inch, and a 4" middle portion. This tool will help with moving one of the spacers sideways while
installing the right C-clip.
INSTALL THE LEFT SIDE C-CLIP AND FIRST CAM GEAR
1. The axle gears and thrust washers should already be in place from checking the tolerances. Carefully push
in the ring gear side axle shaft, through the axle gear splines.
2. Install the C-clip on the end of the axle shaft, with the points facing downward.
3. Pull (snap) the axle shaft outward to seat the C-clip onto the hub of the axle gear.
4. Carefully insert one of the cam gear assemblies into the case with the teeth oriented toward the axle gear.
5. Push the cam gear teeth into the axle gear teeth so that the grease “squishes” out.
6. Reach into the center and push the spacer down over the C-clip and axle end. The combination of grease
and the spacer over the hub should help hold the cam gear in place.
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INSTALL THE RIGHT SIDE C-CLIP AND SECOND CAM GEAR
1. Insert the second cam gear assembly into the case, with its teeth facing the axle gear. Hold it toward the
middle of the case, touching the left cam gear.
2. Holding the right cam gear leftward next to the left cam gear, reach into the gap between the teeth (of
the right cam gear and axle gear) with the “U” shaped tool made earlier. Twist it to slide the spacer to the
LEFT, partially into the left cam gear. The right cam gear will now be centered on the spacer and touching
the left cam gear, with a gap between the right-hand teeth.
3. Remove the tool. Everything should just sit there, held in place by the spacers and the grease. If not, the
assembly may need to be held in place during the following steps.
4. With the left axle, slowly rotate the complete locker assembly until the C-clip recess in the right cam gear
teeth faces toward you.
5. CAREFULLY slide in the right axle shaft. Hold the right axle gear so that it doesn’t slide out of place as the
axle spline comes through.
6. Look through the gap between the teeth as the axle end begins to protrude from the axle gear hub. Stop
sliding the axle shaft when its C-clip groove is completely visible.
7. Carefully insert the second C-clip into the groove. The grease will help hold it in place.
8. Pull (snap) the axle shaft outward to seat the C-clip.
9. Rotate the right tire 1/4 turn until the C-clip points face downward, which will help keep it in place while
the cam gear and spacer are being moved into position.
10. Carefully move the right cam gear to the right and seat it into the grease in the axle gear teeth. The
spacer may remain stationary for the moment.
11. If the spacer is “stuck” to the other spacer because of the grease, use a small knife to pry them apart.
Reach in through the pinion shaft recess in the axle gears and slide the spacer to the right, onto the right
axle gear and over the C-clip and axle end.
ASSEMBLE THE PINS AND SPRINGS
1. Rotate both halves until the cam gear recesses line up. This
also lines up the pin and spring holes.
2. Push one pin from the long slot across the gap and into the
opposite cam gear pin hole. The visible end of the pin should
have the small step on it.
3. Insert a spring into the slot just vacated by the pin. One end
of the spring will fit over the step on the end of the pin and
the other end will nest in the bottom of the slot.
4. Carefully rotate the whole locker assembly to expose the
next slot. Repeat steps 2 and 3 three more times. Assembly
of the locker itself is now complete.
MEASURING THE CENTER GAP
This step is important because it relates to warranty issues. The gap down the center of the locker must
be within tolerance for the unit to operate properly. If it is too narrow it can bind up, and if it is too loose
the cam gears can become damaged. Therefore, you will need to measure how far apart the cam gears
at the middle of the assembly are. If you have a warranty claim we will ask you for this information.
If we receive the parts back we can tell if the unit was operated out of tolerance by the contact
patterns, and this can void your warranty.
10
1. Using a feeler gauge or dial caliper, measure the center gap. It should be between .145 and .170 wide. If it
is outside these numbers either the case or thrust washers are worn or possibly other (thicker) thrust
washers were installed at one time. If the gap between the spacer and pinion shaft is O.K. and this
measurement is not within tolerance, re-check your installation to see if anything is out of place or if a
piece of metal or dirt may be stuck somewhere.
2. Measure the center gap before buttoning everything up in case the thrust washers, etc. are bad.
3. Write the gap measurement on the form in back of this manual. IF YOU HAVE A WARRANTY ISSUE WE MUST
HAVE THIS INSTALLATION INFORMATION.
INSTALL THE PINION SHAFT
(C-CLIP/THIN RING GEAR AXLES)
1. Rotate the drive shaft to position the differential case so that
the pinion shaft hole points downward at about a 45° angle so
that the pinion shaft can be inserted, and with the pinion shaft
retaining lock hole exposed.
2. With either axle shaft, rotate the locker assembly until the cam
gear recesses line up with the pinion shaft holes.
3. Carefully slide the pinion shaft into the case, past the spacers
and into the opposite side.
4. Line up the pinion shaft lock hole and install the lock pin or bolt.
5. Proceed to the above entitled Measuring the Center Gap, and
then to the section below entitled Testing the Locker Assembly.
THIN RING GEAR
This portion of the instructions assumes that the differential case has remained in the carrier, whether or
not the carrier is in the vehicle. If your differential is in a removable third member that is on the bench,
perform the following installation there and then re-install the third member in the vehicle.
1. Prepare all the parts for assembly as described above under Preparing the Remainder of the Parts. The axle
gears and thrust washers should already be in place from checking the case tolerances
NOTE: If your assembly will re-use the thrust block (Jeep AMC-20, for example), insert the thrust block into
the splines in the right axle gear. It will be pushed inward later with a tool or with the axle shaft.
2. Install the left (ring gear side) cam gear assembly onto the left axle gear with the teeth meshed. Push it in
so that the grease “squishes” out.
3. Reach into the center and push the spacer to the left, over the axle gear hub.
4. Install the right cam gear assembly into the case onto the right axle gear with the teeth meshed.
5. Rotate the left and right halves until the large cam gear recesses line up. Reach inside and push the right
spacer to the right, over the axle gear hub.
6. With the cam gear recesses lined up, slide one of the pins in either cam gear across the center gap into
the hole in the opposite cam gear. The step should now be visible on the top of the pin.
7. Insert a spring into the slot on the cam gear just vacated by the pin. One end should nest into the bottom
of the slot and the other end should snap over the step on the end of the pin.
8. Repeat step 7 for the remaining three pins and springs. The assembly of the locker itself is now complete.
9. Proceed to the above entitled Measuring the Center Gap
10. Rotate the differential case so that the pinion shaft hole and lock pin holes are visible.
NOTE: If your assembly has the thrust block inserted in the right axle gear, before performing the next step
use the axle shaft or a tool such as a rake handle and carefully push the block into the center. Line up its hole
with the pinion shaft hole and then proceed to the next step.
11. Carefully insert the pinion shaft into the case, past the spacers. Line up the pinion shaft lock hole and
install the lock pin or bolt.
12. Install the axle shafts, bearing retainers and backing plates (if applicable). If your assembly uses a thrust
block, be sure that the axle shaft end play is set up correctly.
13. Install the tires. They will be needed for testing your assembly once everything is buttoned up. Don’t
forget to tighten up the lug nuts later on.
14. Proceed to the section below entitled Testing the Locker Assembly.
11
THICK RING GEAR
ASSEMBLE THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE
1. Perform steps 1 - 10 immediately above under Thin Ring Gear to install the locker into the differential case.
It is assumed that the case is bare and on the bench, with the axle gears and thrust washers in place
from checking case tolerances.
2. Install the ring gear on the case. Be sure to orient it according to the marks made previously, and tighten
the bolts as outlined in your shop manual.
3. Proceed to the section immediately below that applies to your differential design.
INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—INTEGRAL CARRIER
1. The differential case and ring gear assembly is now ready to be installed in the carrier. Using the shims
marked and removed previously, install the case into the carrier using the methodology determined from
your shop manual and club and internet sources. This will generally involve using a carrier spreader, or
pounding it in with a brass mallet. Be sure to locate the bearing races on the correct side, and watch the
shims as the bearings enter the seats.
2. Install the bearing caps and torque the bolts or nuts.
3. Install the axle shafts, bearing retainers and backing plates (if applicable).
4. Proceed to the section below entitled Testing the Locker Assembly.
INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE—REMOVABLE CARRIER (THIRD MEMBER)
1. This section assumes that your assembly uses bearing adjusters to set backlash and pre-load and that
these parts were marked and removed as described above under Removable Carrier (Third Member). If your
unit is of another design, consult your shop manual for the procedure used to install the differential case
into the carrier.
2. The differential case and ring gear assembly is now ready to be installed in the carrier. Place the marked
bearing races on the correct sides.
3. Set the case and bearing race assembly into the bearing seats in the carrier.
4. Place the marked adjusters into the threads on the correct sides.
5. Install the marked caps and the bolts. Snug the bolts down but do not tighten them yet so that the
adjusters will still rotate.
6. Rotate the left (ring gear side) adjuster inward until it stops and the ring and pinion backlash is zero (the
ring gear is lightly jammed into the pinion).
7. Back off the left adjuster until it reaches the position marked previously. This is now the exact orientation
where it was located originally.
8. Rotate the right adjuster inward. It will become difficult as the correct pre-load is approached. Continue
turning until it reaches its marked orientation.
9. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the torque specs defined in your shop manual. If you re-positioned
everything to the marks made during disassembly, the R&P backlash and bearing pre-load should be exactly
the same as before the installation began. To do a rough check, rock the ring gear back and forth. It
should have the same “feel” as before–about .008 or so. If not, don’t despair–just set them up again using
the shop manual procedures.
NOTE: You may need a diff shop to do it, because the backlash and pre-load are especially important and
need specialized knowledge. However, at this point it’s not quite as bad as starting from scratch because the
pinion depth is already correct.
10. Install the third member into the vehicle. Use a carrier gasket and RTV as needed, and tighten the nuts
per your shop manual.
11. Install the axle shafts, bearing retainers and backing plates (if applicable).
12. Fasten the drive shaft to the yoke.
13. Install the tires. They will be needed for testing your assembly once everything is buttoned up. Don’t
forget to tighten up the lug nuts later on.
14. Proceed to the above entitled Measuring the Center Gap, and then to the section below entitled Testing
the Locker Assembly.
12
TESTING THE LOCKER ASSEMBLY
This section assumes that your new Aussie Locker has been installed and that the complete differential
assembly is now in the vehicle with the tires installed.
1. Put the transmission in gear and the transfer case in 4WD to lock the drive shaft. Tires must be installed
to complete this test.
2. Rotate one of the tires until it stops against the locked drive shaft. Hold it in position and maintain
moderate pressure.
3. Rotate the other tire in the opposite direction. It should unlock and spin, with the locker clicking as the
tire rotates. Note that this sound will be less with the cover on and gear oil inside.
4. Rotate the first tire in the opposite direction until it stops, and again maintain pressure.
5. Rotate the second tire in the opposite direction from the first time. It should again unlock and spin with
the clicking sound.
6. Switch tires. Rotate and hold the second tire, and spin the first one in the opposite direction. Again switch
directions. Both tires should rotate in both directions and the locker should click as they are doing so.
7. If your installation passes this “spin” test, you are ready to finish up.
COMPLETING YOUR ASSEMBLY
1. Install the cover, using RTV and/or a gasket as required.
2. Add gear oil to the proper level.
3. Check to be sure that the backing plates and retainers (if applicable) and brake lines have been installed
and tightened correctly. If you have pinched off the break lines, be sure to release them.
4. Leave the vehicle in gear, and apply the emergency brake. Remove the jack stands and front wheel blocks.
TESTING YOUR VEHICLE
1. After your installation is complete and tested as described above, it’s time to take your vehicle for a spin.
Consult the Operator’s Guide for detailed information on how to operate your vehicle on- and off-road.
2. During your initial testing, take it easy for the first few miles. Remember that your new locker-equipped
vehicle will now climb walls but that it also has some different handling characteristics. Take turns slowly
at first. Remember that if you power around a turn that the inside (powered) wheel will spin up more easily
than before because weight is transferring off it as the vehicle leans outward.
3. Drive it around town for a while, and then take it off road on a level surface to get a feel for how it
behaves in dirt. Be careful, and have fun!
4. There is a break-in period for your locker of about 200 miles. In a very few instances you may notice some
noise other than clicking while turning during this time. If you have installed your locker per these
instructions, there is no need to be concerned about these additional sounds.
13
Note: Manufacturers’ obligation under this Warranty is limited to the repair and/or replacement of
the defective product.
This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties express or implied and all other obligations
or liabilities on the part of the manufacturer. The manufacturer neither assumes nor
authorizes any other entity or person to assume for it any other liability in connection and sale
of “Aussie Lockers”.
This warranty does not cover defects caused by any of the following: modification, alteration, repair or
service of the product by anyone other than by the manufacturer, or its authorized representative,
physical abuse to or misuse of the product or improper installation or operation thereof in a manner
contrary to the installation manual accompanying the product.
There are no warranties which beyond those described herein. The manufacturer disclaims any implied
warranties of merchantability of the goods or fitness of the goods for any purpose. The manufacturer
has no liability for incident, consequential or special damages including but not limited to claims of personal
injury for property damage and claims of liabilities by third parties not the original purchaser to the
product. While this warranty gives specific legal rights, some States have special laws regarding warranties
which regulate limitation and time periods. These rights vary from state to state and purchaser is
urged to reviews laws of his jurisdiction in the event of a warranty question.
NOTES
1. The Aussie Locker is slightly larger, and therefore, stronger, than some other units on the market today. In
a very few instances we have seen flashing on the differential case in the area of 2mm that might be
evident when you install the second came gear. A round file should be used to remove this flashing. Be
sure to remove any file shavings from the grease and diff.
2. In some Toyota differentials it may be necessary to file down casting flashing and case irregularities prior
to fitting parts.
3. Some Ford Dana 44 front installations may require minor grinding in the case to ensure a proper fit.
4. You can contact us at:
engineering@offroadlockers.com
installation@offroadlockers.com
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY STATEMENT FOR TORQ-MASTERS TECHNOLOGY, INC.
“AUSSIE LOCKER” TWO YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
Manufacturer warrants each new “Aussie Locker” to be free from defects in material and workmanship
under normal use and service for two years after purchase by the original user. This warranty is limited to
the manufacturer’s replacement of the defective parts, providing that the product, including all components
parts, is returned to the manufacturer or its authorized representative, transportation charges
prepaid. Any failure of the product as before described must be reported to the manufacturer within
fifteen (15) days of failure and an authorization code number obtained for return of the product to
manufacturer or its authorized representative. In order to obtain a return authorization code please
contact warranty@offroadlockers.com.
14
Aussie Locker is a Registered Trademark owned by Torq-Masters Technology, Inc.
Copyright by Torq-Masters Technology, Inc. All right reserved. May not be reproduced, copied in any
fashion, in part or whole, or sent electronically without the express written permission of Torq-Masters
Technology, Inc. , 516 Fetzner Road, Rochester, NY 14626. May 9, 2003
rev. D
RECORD AND SAVE THIS INFORMATION. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY VOID WARRANTY.
PLEASE RECORD AND SAVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION.
WE WILL ASK FOR THIS SHOULD YOU HAVE ANY WARRANTY QUESTIONS.
PURCHASE DATE __________________________________________________ _______
ORDER NUMBER __________________________________________________ _______
MODEL NUMBER __________________________________________________ _______
VEHICLE MAKE & MODEL __________________________________________________ __
SHAFT TO AXLE GEAR SPACING___________________________________________ _____
INTER CAM GEAR SPACING___________________________________________ ________
TIRE PRESSURE:
FRONT RIGHT __________ LEFT ________________
REAR RIGHT __________ LEFT ________________
UNLOCK TEST PERFORMED:
FRONT RIGHT LEFT
REAR RIGHT LEFT

biztyke

i just re-installed one in an 8.8 today, it is very easy.....most(all?) lunchbox lockers are.

that said, the guy that installed this one put the springs/pins in backwards(hence the re-install). little bits of springs everywhere and two pins fell out, so yes instructions are a good idea. after you've done it the first time you'll be able to do it again in less that 30 minutes.

mudderx

I installed my front aussie locker today and it rocks! The aussie PDF sucks a$$. I used the directions I found online, the only thing the PDF had that helped was clear pics and directions for placing the springs and pins.