All stock, looking to lift. Suggestions please!
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 1
From: Franksville, Wi
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It ain't speed your gonna lose, its torque; plus its hard on your trany.
I'd recommend changing your tone man! Your coming on here with apparently limited knowledge and everyone's just trying to help you. Do some searching, ask some questions; but don't expect us to do the research for you.
I'd recommend changing your tone man! Your coming on here with apparently limited knowledge and everyone's just trying to help you. Do some searching, ask some questions; but don't expect us to do the research for you.
It ain't speed your gonna lose, its torque; plus its hard on your trany.
I'd recommend changing your tone man! Your coming on here with apparently limited knowledge and everyone's just trying to help you. Do some searching, ask some questions; but don't expect us to do the research for you.
I'd recommend changing your tone man! Your coming on here with apparently limited knowledge and everyone's just trying to help you. Do some searching, ask some questions; but don't expect us to do the research for you.
Right, but are you going to be driving on the highway at all? Steel wheels + 35" of rubber makes stock gearing nearly useless, if you are in a manual, don't expect to see 5th gear, and if an auto, I would leave it out of overdrive. Not saying 35's and stock can't be done, I'm sure someone will chime in and say they have, but it is definitely a detriment to drivablility, as well as fuel economy. I'm the city, I'm sure you could manage as long as it is temporary.
If you are installing this lift to use and not just to look pretty, then some other things to consider a priority are armour, good recovery, etc.
If you are installing this lift to use and not just to look pretty, then some other things to consider a priority are armour, good recovery, etc.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 3
From: New Milford, CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's honestly an opinion. At the end of the day, you need to put on a blindfold and go, "I want that one".
I have a 4.5" Rough Country Long Arm lift kit. It costs $1,400 or so. People bash it all the time, but honestly, i haven't had any problems with it at all. Is it a 3 link? No, it's not. Is a 3-link worth $1500 more? Is a rustys lift kit really twice as good as the Rough Country?
Honestly, i don't know. I'm happy, and that's all that counts.
Just read what these people have to say OP, we're not trying to make you feel bad for having limited knowledge on XJs, we're merely trying to fill you in on why something is/isn't possible.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 3
From: New Milford, CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
"i'll add gears too".
OP, do you understand what you're saying? You don't just unbolt your diff cover, take the gears out of the box, and throw the gears at the diff while saying "allahu akbar" and they magically go in.
It's beneficial to do lockers at the same time, and upgrade the axles, truss them, alloy shafts, etc etc while you're in there.
I don't know about you, but i don't have $3,000+ burning holes in my pockets.
I'm not even going to recommend anything. What i say is good, someone else will chime in and say it's garbage. What they say is good, someone will then chime in and say that is garbage.
It's honestly an opinion. At the end of the day, you need to put on a blindfold and go, "I want that one".
I have a 4.5" Rough Country Long Arm lift kit. It costs $1,400 or so. People bash it all the time, but honestly, i haven't had any problems with it at all. Is it a 3 link? No, it's not. Is a 3-link worth $1500 more? Is a rustys lift kit really twice as good as the Rough Country?
Honestly, i don't know. I'm happy, and that's all that counts.
Just read what these people have to say OP, we're not trying to make you feel bad for having limited knowledge on XJs, we're merely trying to fill you in on why something is/isn't possible.
It's honestly an opinion. At the end of the day, you need to put on a blindfold and go, "I want that one".
I have a 4.5" Rough Country Long Arm lift kit. It costs $1,400 or so. People bash it all the time, but honestly, i haven't had any problems with it at all. Is it a 3 link? No, it's not. Is a 3-link worth $1500 more? Is a rustys lift kit really twice as good as the Rough Country?
Honestly, i don't know. I'm happy, and that's all that counts.
Just read what these people have to say OP, we're not trying to make you feel bad for having limited knowledge on XJs, we're merely trying to fill you in on why something is/isn't possible.
"i'll add gears too".
OP, do you understand what you're saying? You don't just unbolt your diff cover, take the gears out of the box, and throw the gears at the diff while saying "allahu akbar" and they magically go in.
It's beneficial to do lockers at the same time, and upgrade the axles, truss them, alloy shafts, etc etc while you're in there.
I don't know about you, but i don't have $3,000+ burning holes in my pockets.
OP, do you understand what you're saying? You don't just unbolt your diff cover, take the gears out of the box, and throw the gears at the diff while saying "allahu akbar" and they magically go in.
It's beneficial to do lockers at the same time, and upgrade the axles, truss them, alloy shafts, etc etc while you're in there.
I don't know about you, but i don't have $3,000+ burning holes in my pockets.
Anyone run this setup or know anybody that does? http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina Midlands
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm relatively new to this, but after some research, I learned that the higher you lift these, the higher the cost, but it's not linear. 6" is double the lift of 3" but it's way more than double the cost.
It's more than just bigger springs. Over about 3 or 4.5 (depending on who you ask) you'll need an SYE or at least a transfer case drop, which I think is silly (lift the Jeep and then lower something?). Someone already mentioned extended brake lines. Anything over 32 or 33" tires you'll need to regear. Over 3" or so of lift, you probably need long arms.
Look up the price of a 6" lift with long arms, extended brake lines, SYE and new gears...you'll see what I mean about being more than double a 3" lift. Also compare the cost of 32's with 35's. Gets real expensive real fast. I'm not saying don't do it, just realize that the cost and complexity goes up exponentially.
I have 3.5" of lift, so I'm sure there's more you would need that I haven't thought of. The bigger lifts have steering geometry issues, also. Nothing impossible to overcome, just takes more $$. There are guys on this site who do this for a living and are really good at it. I'm not one of them. There's a whole thread on here somewhere about low COG rigs, which sold me on lower lifts. I clear 33's with good bumpstops and lots of fender cutting.
I have a Rusty's Offroad lift. Their customer service is awesome. Try calling them and telling them what you're looking at; they'll point you in the right direction.
It's more than just bigger springs. Over about 3 or 4.5 (depending on who you ask) you'll need an SYE or at least a transfer case drop, which I think is silly (lift the Jeep and then lower something?). Someone already mentioned extended brake lines. Anything over 32 or 33" tires you'll need to regear. Over 3" or so of lift, you probably need long arms.
Look up the price of a 6" lift with long arms, extended brake lines, SYE and new gears...you'll see what I mean about being more than double a 3" lift. Also compare the cost of 32's with 35's. Gets real expensive real fast. I'm not saying don't do it, just realize that the cost and complexity goes up exponentially.
I have 3.5" of lift, so I'm sure there's more you would need that I haven't thought of. The bigger lifts have steering geometry issues, also. Nothing impossible to overcome, just takes more $$. There are guys on this site who do this for a living and are really good at it. I'm not one of them. There's a whole thread on here somewhere about low COG rigs, which sold me on lower lifts. I clear 33's with good bumpstops and lots of fender cutting.
I have a Rusty's Offroad lift. Their customer service is awesome. Try calling them and telling them what you're looking at; they'll point you in the right direction.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 3
From: New Milford, CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have 32s on my jeep. Stock gearing (3.55). I do run a tranny cooler though.
Plan on upgrading the gears/axles/shafts/lockers all at once to get the most bang for my buck.
In terms of other mods to my jeep, i've done this;
Lift Kit - $1,400
Tires - $800
Rims - $200
Currie HD Steering - $500 (overpriced, but i was dumb when i bought it.)
IRO Double Shear Track Bar - $200
Disc Brake Conversion - $200
JCR DIY Front Bumper - $250
Stereo - $500
Then obviously there are the expensive you don't expect to happen. (Radiators, Bad sensors, U-joints, Brakes, etc etc.)
I just had to spend like $600 because my head cracked. That's with me doing all the work. Head + gaskets + everything else you forget about adds up fast.
Do i regret any of this? You bet your *** i don't. I've learned so much about working on vehicles, i'm certain it will pay for itself a hundred times over when i get older. (i'm only 17.)
I will never not own a jeep. They're super reliable, easy to fix, and the community is great.
Oh, and a picture of my jeep currently looks.
Last edited by HudsonN; Mar 29, 2013 at 07:37 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 484
Likes: 3
From: New Milford, CT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Let me elaborate on this a little bit for clarification.
You can run 6" of lift on shorts arm (short arms simply means that the control arms are longer than stock control arms) but the ride will feel like you're constantly riding over a rumble strip.
The closer to vertical the control arms are the harsher the ride. They actually make "control arm drop brackets" that drop the stock location down to make the control arms more horizontal, and some people like them, but to each their own.
Long arms offer the arms to be longer (via a crossmember mounted across the jeep about half way back.) while being more horizontal. This makes the ride smoother.
One downside to this though is if you're constantly wheeling rocks, you're going to be beating the hell out of them.
tldr; everything has their advantages and their disadvantages.
You can run 6" of lift on shorts arm (short arms simply means that the control arms are longer than stock control arms) but the ride will feel like you're constantly riding over a rumble strip.
The closer to vertical the control arms are the harsher the ride. They actually make "control arm drop brackets" that drop the stock location down to make the control arms more horizontal, and some people like them, but to each their own.
Long arms offer the arms to be longer (via a crossmember mounted across the jeep about half way back.) while being more horizontal. This makes the ride smoother.
One downside to this though is if you're constantly wheeling rocks, you're going to be beating the hell out of them.
tldr; everything has their advantages and their disadvantages.


