They don't, they rub the LCAs at full lock and you have to run stupid low air pressure for the street to keep from wearing down the center of the tires.

ideal rim width for 10.50s is 8-9 inches.


They'll work just fine, especially 31x10.50s 33x10.50s work better on stock wheels.

 

The only thing id like to add, if you want to just wheel cheap (like I am), wide tires can work on stock rims without rubbing if you add spacers to the steering stops or get LCAs from rusty's thwt have a bend for tire clearance. At the time I made thst decision it was going to be over $300 for new rims (and only paid 100 for the tires), or use 5 bucks worth of washers and four of the eight stock rims I have around. Its all what you can find and what you can budget. I dont notice any loss of turn radius, and I plan to get the bent LCAs soon, but I only wheel with that jeep and it doesnt touch the road, and would have gotten a new set if LCAs anyway.

 

my bud ran a 31x10.5 15 on a 3" lift for a long time and did not rub much and with the 10" rim if it has a 4-3.75 back spacing you will be fine with the stock LCA'sup to you

 

Hi all, great forum you have here. I had a 85 2 door back when I was a teenager and have many fond memories of that jeep so when I started looking for a 4x4 it was really a no brainer. To make a long story short I finally found a 2001 limited at the right price and pulled the trigger.

Now I am a newbie to all this but I am ready to start building. I have done quite a bit of research but wanted to make sure I am heading in the right direction and not leaving any pieces out.

XJ setup: 4 speed Auto, Dana 30/F and 35/R with a NP231 TC

Here is what I am leaning towards.

Rubicon Express 5.5" Heavy Duty Long Arm
Rubicon Express Extreme Duty mono-tube 5.5"-7.5" Shock kit
Tom Wood's 231 HD Std. All with CV Drive shaft
MT Classic II 16x8
MT Baja Radial MTZ 33x12.50

First question, With the RE kit including all the lift parts is there anything that I should add during the install that would help suspension performance long term for example steering stabilizer, bump stops, Bar pin eliminators, etc?

Second question, I've seen reviews on the RE shocks go both ways. With this setup how will the Jeep handle on the road? If these shocks are teeth rattling stiff as some have said is there a better shock option out there? If so about what length would I need? RE appears to complicate this by shorting the advertised lift height of their kits.

This XJ won't be a daily driver but will be used for road trips, wheelin, and grocery gettin.

Thanks in advance

 

dunno about their shocks, but any good for 4-6" of lift will do fine

as far as the kit it's fairly complete - bumpstops are often overlooked by very important to keep from bottoming out the suspension, especially with long arms.

 

Bumpstops. Bar pin eliminators make things easier. Id upgrade the steering going that tall. And probably go with 35s.. Or go with a shorter lift and 33s since you have that d35... Check out ironrock offroad 4.5" longarm. Good setup and a bit cheaper

 

I want to run a 6 inch rc lift with 35's Any one on here that dose not trim the fenders because I do not.

 

you might be able to but it'll be very tight, and you'll have to bumpstop a crapload to keep from rubbing.

 

I installed rough country shackle relocation kit.. 4.5" springs. 2" adjustable shackles.. i used the shorter hole.. i was guessing 1" of lift.. I'm still sitting at like 7.5" in the rear! toooo tall.. should i get stock shackle? maybe 1" boomerang? i want to be right about 6".. i have 6.5" coils up front with a 1.5" spacer for now but i want to take it out and sit around 6"-6.5" front and rear....

 

i used Dakota shackles with my relocation brackets - 1" longer than stock (1/2" lift +/-). Stock shackles will hit the brackets too easy

 

i was right where i wanted to be until i moved the shackle back on the bracket.. better angle but more lift than what i wanted.. anyone ever cut those brackets?

 

don't do that...

 

dont say that bc thats usually when i go do something lol

 

my buddy just bought a lift off craigslist the boxes where all closed except for the shocks when i was looking at them i noticed there is no thing holding it compressed ans i can actually move the rod that is in the shock up and down, when i am doing this i hear a fluid moving inside. is this normal the shocks are plain white with no company name written on it

 

Plain white can be anybody..
But as it so happens I bought a lift from RC.
It canes with RC8000 shocks, and they came plain white. And when I needed a warranty (life time) on 2 of them, they sent my replacements right away once I provided them with my order/invoice number, and they too were plain white.

As far as being able to move the shocks, if there is little to no resistance, then that more than likely means they are bad.
hearing fluid move inside doesn't really mean much. Especially, depending on what kind they are charged with.