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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #3001  
stryker1228's Avatar
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by wiggles
I tried the jam nut method, and I didn't want to have to do any welding. I just offered the rusty's crosmember with the 1inch drop incorporated in it so I don't have to take them out. I have to deal with a broken bolt though one of the ones that actually goes in. I still have to figure out the pitman arm though.
Yea, one of my bolts did that, too. I have yet to drill it out. Think I might tomorrow. I've been running around with half a t case drop. Did help the vibes though.
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 11:15 PM
  #3002  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I don't know if I mind driving with only one on one side but I know its not safe
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:16 AM
  #3003  
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
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Both sides are secure. One it's just lower than the other.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:24 AM
  #3004  
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
Rustys offroad has a great 2'' budget lift. I would recommend new shocks and a steering stabilizer as well.
I just can't justify spending $270 on a 2" lift, you know? If most of these 2" BBs consist of spacers and shackles anyways, why shouldn't I just spend $90 on a 2.5" spacer and shackle set i put together myself?

EDIT: The only thing that really worries me, is spacers giving a harsh ride. So if I went with the Autozone shackles in the back, and then a 2" set of coil springs or shocks up front, which ones would be better? Remember, this is purely a cosmetic lift. I will almost NEVER be off of pavement. A set of coil springs is $99 + shipping, a set of shocks is $60

Last edited by chadh92; Jul 2, 2011 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:51 AM
  #3005  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by stryker1228
Both sides are secure. One it's just lower than the other.
On mine the drivers side only has the stud, the bolt is broken
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 04:15 AM
  #3006  
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From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by chadh92

EDIT: The only thing that really worries me, is spacers giving a harsh ride. So if I went with the Autozone shackles in the back, and then a 2" set of coil springs or shocks up front, which ones would be better?
spacers will ride the same as what ever springs you have under them... if you keep your stock springs the jeep should feel stockish
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #3007  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by chadh92
I just can't justify spending $270 on a 2" lift, you know? If most of these 2" BBs consist of spacers and shackles anyways, why shouldn't I just spend $90 on a 2.5" spacer and shackle set i put together myself?

EDIT: The only thing that really worries me, is spacers giving a harsh ride. So if I went with the Autozone shackles in the back, and then a 2" set of coil springs or shocks up front, which ones would be better? Remember, this is purely a cosmetic lift. I will almost NEVER be off of pavement. A set of coil springs is $99 + shipping, a set of shocks is $60
Make sure your new shocks have 2'' more travel than stock. Shackles and spacers will feel exactly like your ride does now if your using the same springs.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 10:34 AM
  #3008  
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EDIT: Screw it. Going with RC 3" lift

Last edited by chadh92; Jul 3, 2011 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #3009  
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From: Toledo, WA
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Can I put a 3" lift on my XJ without changing control arms?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #3010  
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From: Maine
Year: 1999 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Its probably been asked, but since there are 200+ pages or replies here, I figured Id post a new question:

Ive got a 99 sitting stock on stock rims & tires. What I want to know is.....

I plan on lifting it 2 to 4.5 inches down the road. Id LIKE to get bigger tires now without ANY modifying (keeping my fenders, rims, etc.) but I dont know what I can fit for sure, what MIGHT rub and what would be good for my driving.

I do mostly around town driving on good, paved roads 30-50 miles a week. I drive on rough tar, good dirt another 100-200 miles a week. I drive 2,500 miles a year on the highway, for a total of about 10K a year. I drive in/on snow & ice (literally, the roads arent exactly "plowed" up here) for a solid 4 months.

Ive been running the Wrangler's (not sure if its the R/Ts or what) and theyre OK, but Id like a larger tire and more aggressive tread. However, if its a trade-off between city/highway and dirt, Ill stick with my Wranglers I guess.

Id like to go to a tire about 30" (Im sure a 21 will rub, right?) so am I being realistic or is there always a trade-off? Thanks!
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #3011  
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by moose84
Can I put a 3" lift on my XJ without changing control arms?
Yes.
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 12:07 AM
  #3012  
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From: Powhatan, VA
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by Brandon100887
ive been trying to sell my brand new zone offroad lift 4.5in with bds full leafs and new bushings 200 for leafs and 400 for zone kit and cannot sell them at all does anyoene kno why>? i paid 1000+ for it i was thinking that was a good deal
Where have you tried to sell it
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #3013  
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Will F-150 coils lift a ZJ 3 inches? Or only an XJ? And if so what years will work?

Sent from my iPod touch using CherokeeFM
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #3014  
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From: EAFB, SD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by FMXFreak
Will F-150 coils lift a ZJ 3 inches? Or only an XJ? And if so what years will work?

Sent from my iPod touch using CherokeeFM
its going to ride like a freaking tank. way to stiff IMO
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 12:24 PM
  #3015  
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I know it will be stiff as hell but it's just temporary. So they will work though?

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