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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 12:27 AM
  #28546  
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Originally Posted by Acerwin
What’s some good leaf springs that actually give 4.5” of lift and no more?
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
My RE 4.5" lift springs with the proper shackle angle and an 1.25" lift shackle are even with my 5.5" cool springs. Most lift springs give more lift till they're broken in
This. The common "complaint" of RE springs giving more lift than advertised occurs before they settle. They typically settle to the advertised 4.5"
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 01:16 AM
  #28547  
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Since I've finished all the required maintenance my '99 Sport needed, I came across one of those deals you can't pass up.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.

So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.

Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.

This is where I humbly ask for opinions.

First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?

This is still my 99% daily driver.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 01:49 AM
  #28548  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Ricksxj
Since I've finished all the required maintenance my '99 Sport needed, I came across one of those deals you can't pass up.
30x9.50x15's Pathfinder Sport S A/T's on really nice Canyon wheels. The tires only have maybe 2,000 miles on them, if that.

So those are on now and with the new Monroe gas shocks it's really smooth.
No rubbing. At least not on the street. I haven't had a chance to test it off road.
I just have this gut feeling that it might rub once it starts flexing some.

Then I get this idea. Add 1 ~ 2" shackles and the same for coil spacers in front.

This is where I humbly ask for opinions.

First: How much lift?
Second: From which manufacturer?

This is still my 99% daily driver.

Thanks in advance.
I don't think they'll rub
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:10 PM
  #28549  
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Someone has a set of shocks for a JK and I've done some reading that says they may or may not work.

I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html

They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended

If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended

Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended

With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:34 PM
  #28550  
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Stock JK shocks are good for 1-2" of lift in an XJ. Those should work for you based on their advertised height
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:39 PM
  #28551  
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Originally Posted by firebane
Someone has a set of shocks for a JK and I've done some reading that says they may or may not work.

I plan to put a 4-4.5" lift probably closer to the 4.5" area. These are the rears the guy has for sale:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilst...-33186887.html

They are 16.96" collapsed and 27.36" extended

If you look at this site https://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/bi...t-p-48701.html you will see the rears are 14.88" collapsed and 23.84" extended

Difference of 2" collapsed and 3.5" extended

With the difference in height I think this should be acceptable?
I have ones that are 15.91" collapsed and 25.93" extended. These are advertised to work with a 6" lift on a Cherokee. I'm around 5-5.5" and use almost the full shock. You might could run them, but you will definitely need to bump stop to make sure you don't bottom the shocks out. I personally wouldn't put that long of a shock on my Cherokee at that height without mounting it differently than stock. It could work, but I can't say for certain one way or another. That's a lot of shock for the size of lift though.
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:44 PM
  #28552  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
I have ones that are 15.91" collapsed and 25.93" extended. These are advertised to work with a 6" lift on a Cherokee. I'm around 5-5.5" and use almost the full shock. You might could run them, but you will definitely need to bump stop to make sure you don't bottom the shocks out. I personally wouldn't put that long of a shock on my Cherokee at that height without mounting it differently than stock. It could work, but I can't say for certain one way or another. That's a lot of shock for the size of lift though.
For the price at $100 (includes fronts) I would be willing to wager on and if bump stops would be required well that is simple enough.
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:49 PM
  #28553  
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Originally Posted by firebane
For the price at $100 (includes fronts) I would be willing to wager on and if bump stops would be required well that is simple enough.
Could probably resell if they don't work out perfect for you. Best thing to do would be set up the suspension, then with no shock in flex it out and measure how long you need them to be. You don't have to do that, but it's the best way to get the most travel out of the suspension.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:23 AM
  #28554  
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
Those all seem pretty good prices I think...didn't realize you were in Washington until now I also didn't pay close attention to your name PNW in it. That of course could mean Oregon because your searching in both areas, but still I didn't look. Where are you located exactly?
I'm about 40 mins north of Portland in Washington
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:26 AM
  #28555  
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OK so I am heading down to Lebanon for me to go pick up the Chrysler 8.25 for $90. Just wondering, is there anyway I could swap out my brake drums and pads and wheel bearings from my Dana 35 to be the 8.25
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:48 AM
  #28556  
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
OK so I am heading down to Lebanon for me to go pick up the Chrysler 8.25 for $90. Just wondering, is there anyway I could swap out my brake drums and pads and wheel bearings from my Dana 35 to be the 8.25
Also I contacted a salvage yard in Portland that has tonnnns of xj parts and they told me their 8.25 driveshafts would cost around 65 bucks. Is that a good deal and a smart choice to get the matching shaft with the new rear end
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 01:45 PM
  #28557  
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Also I contacted a salvage yard in Portland that has tonnnns of xj parts and they told me their 8.25 driveshafts would cost around 65 bucks. Is that a good deal and a smart choice to get the matching shaft with the new rear end
I don't know about prices up there, but driveshafts here are $27 + tax and if you're at anything over stock height you're probably fine. You are talking about driveshafts and not axleshafts, correct? Also, the axle tubes are a different size so bearings are a definite no, not sure on the drums. If you weren't asked what rear axle you have at the parts store when you bought the brakes I'd assume they're the same. Could always hold it up to one another and see if they look the same whenever you have both axles.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 01:56 PM
  #28558  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
I don't know about prices up there, but driveshafts here are $27 + tax and if you're at anything over stock height you're probably fine. You are talking about driveshafts and not axleshafts, correct? Also, the axle tubes are a different size so bearings are a definite no, not sure on the drums. If you weren't asked what rear axle you have at the parts store when you bought the brakes I'd assume they're the same. Could always hold it up to one another and see if they look the same whenever you have both axles.
Yes I was talking about the drive shaft not axle shaft. The one that connects to the diff and the body. So should I not worry about the drive shaft? I may put the rear axle on before I lift it depending on what lift I go for so I may be at stock height on the c8.25 for a month or so. I may also wait to install everything all at once. Shoot while I'm busy asking questions, I guess I have another one. It's brake related not lift but it's still something on my mind. So on my jeep the way it is right now, I don't have a functioning e brake. I can lift the handle and the light on my dash comes on but it doesn't click upward or anything the handle is just sitting in there freely. Will this have any affect on installing a rear axle? Any advice? If this isn't an okay question to ask on this thread then by all means, please send me to another related thread so I can get some of this answered. Thanks!
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 02:32 PM
  #28559  
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Yes I was talking about the drive shaft not axle shaft. The one that connects to the diff and the body. So should I not worry about the drive shaft? I may put the rear axle on before I lift it depending on what lift I go for so I may be at stock height on the c8.25 for a month or so. I may also wait to install everything all at once. Shoot while I'm busy asking questions, I guess I have another one. It's brake related not lift but it's still something on my mind. So on my jeep the way it is right now, I don't have a functioning e brake. I can lift the handle and the light on my dash comes on but it doesn't click upward or anything the handle is just sitting in there freely. Will this have any affect on installing a rear axle? Any advice? If this isn't an okay question to ask on this thread then by all means, please send me to another related thread so I can get some of this answered. Thanks!
The ebrake not working is most likely your drums not being adjusted properly. Its a quick fix if you want to do it now. I would also suggest doing it to the new rear end when it goes in.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 03:18 PM
  #28560  
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Originally Posted by 5-Speed
The ebrake not working is most likely your drums not being adjusted properly. Its a quick fix if you want to do it now. I would also suggest doing it to the new rear end when it goes in.
hmm so you think it would be within the drums itself. I thought it would be something in the Middle console or something since the e brake lever itself feels like it's just sitting in its slot and doesn't crank upward. It's like whatever holds it up in the Middle console fell through. Also I would hope it wouldn't be my brake drums since I just had them all done at a shop like a month and a half ago. But that's for the advice I'll look into it
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