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Old 09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:04 PM
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IRO does sell a really nice kit with TRUSS for the 8.8 you may want to look into. Not a bad price but will require some welding. I thought about that as well when I can get one for $140.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Oh yeah God no I'm not going to read gear it myself. But also I replaced all of my bearings when I replaced my brakes last month. And also judging on what you said I should look for a 29 spline or what for the 8.25. Also I do have a buddy who is trying to sell me his Ford 8.8 but it's not totally done and I know that that would be a little more complex than the 8.25 and this is just my first project.
I can't tell you whether the 8.8 would be a good deal for you or not. Depends on what is done to it, what gear ratio, disk or drum, and numerous other factors, the easiest swap is an 8.25 from a 97+ cherokee with the same gear ratio as yours. That will be 29 spline and stronger than the d35 or 27 spline 8.25.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
I can't tell you whether the 8.8 would be a good deal for you or not. Depends on what is done to it, what gear ratio, disk or drum, and numerous other factors, the easiest swap is an 8.25 from a 97+ cherokee with the same gear ratio as yours. That will be 29 spline and stronger than the d35 or 27 spline 8.25.
Well now I may just not swap for a 8.25 if that is the case. Like I said it is a one for one swap not going to cost me anything but my time to do it. If you say what you say is true then maybe I should just wait and until I break my D35 worry about swapping axles. Or continue to look for the 97+ one instead. I will need to confirm if the gearing is the same anyhow and then I think it was a 96 not 97.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
That and would it be wise for me to just remove the driveshaft from my parts jeep running the 8.25? Will that help any or the SYE and new driveshaft is the best and only way to solve that? Figured if you have a C8.25 on a parts jeep and swap it over to remove your D35 if you remove the driveshaft and axle and do swap that way it would help with that snout problem you mentioned.
Depending on how high you lift you will need an sye and driveshaft with a slip in it to prevent driveline vibrations. Depending on which type of driveshaft you use (stock or a double cardan with slip) will determine what you should set you pinion angle up like. The driveshaft from the 8.25 parts jeep will not help at all with the sye. If going over stock you can leave your driveshaft most likely, but could get driveline vibrations in which case you would need an sye and driveshaft. There are tons of threads on the matter and I highly recommend googling the topic. Reading all of the threads already available will give much more information than I can type in a few posts.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:09 PM
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This is the Ford 8.8. It doesn't have the disc brakes or anything which is definitely a minus and also I haven't looked anything into what all it takes for that conversion. I have a good buddy of mine that is doing a welding apprenticeship program at the college that I go to and he is wanting to help me with this project so I know it is not out of the realm of possibilities
Old 01-19-2018, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Depending on how high you lift you will need an sye and driveshaft with a slip in it to prevent driveline vibrations. Depending on which type of driveshaft you use (stock or a double cardan with slip) will determine what you should set you pinion angle up like. The driveshaft from the 8.25 parts jeep will not help at all with the sye. If going over stock you can leave your driveshaft most likely, but could get driveline vibrations in which case you would need an sye and driveshaft. There are tons of threads on the matter and I highly recommend googling the topic. Reading all of the threads already available will give much more information than I can type in a few posts.
I understand and I have read all about the SYE and drop kits for your transfer case which is the cheap and not preferred over the SYE being the best. I'm aware of it but also aware that you can sometimes get away with that. However; since I'm going 4.5" RE lift it will need one I'm sure and might as well save my pennies for the SYE and do it right.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
This is the Ford 8.8. It doesn't have the disc brakes or anything which is definitely a minus and also I haven't looked anything into what all it takes for that conversion. I have a good buddy of mine that is doing a welding apprenticeship program at the college that I go to and he is wanting to help me with this project so I know it is not out of the realm of possibilities
That 8.8 is going to cost a lot of money in the end to put brakes on, regear the front to match, get a kit to weld perches on and more. I personally would pass, but up to you if it's worth it or not.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:12 PM
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Lol so I just reread the post and he says he has the brake parts but that leads me to another question, will the amount of rugs change for my rear tires because of having a different axle and I know that the Ford's usually run eight lugs I believe
Old 01-19-2018, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Lol so I just reread the post and he says he has the brake parts but that leads me to another question, will the amount of rugs change for my rear tires because of having a different axle and I know that the Ford's usually run eight lugs I believe
If it's the right 8.8 it will be the same bolt pattern, but will be like an inch narrower I believe. Not 100% sure on the width difference but I know it's narrower. Also a disc brake 8.8 might be worth it, but a drum brake 8.8 is not. Also it's going to cost $500 at least (most likely much more) to regear the front to match the rear. There are many factors and the best thing to do is read read read everything you can find about it. Googling and reading threads. It's much quicker, and these questions have all been answered numerous times other places.
Old 01-19-2018, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
That 8.8 is going to cost a lot of money in the end to put brakes on, regear the front to match, get a kit to weld perches on and more. I personally would pass, but up to you if it's worth it or not.
That's what I was thinking that's why I was leaning more towards the C8.25
Old 01-19-2018, 01:26 PM
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Right now I'm asking all of the guys that I messaged about their axles what amount of splines they have. I have heard to avoid the 27 spline before. Also I believe I have heard to not get one of the C 8.25 from an xj earlier than 96 (that's why I was leaning towards the guy with a 98 xj)
Old 01-19-2018, 01:26 PM
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By the way I appreciate all the advice and responses it usually takes weeks for anyone replies to me on here
Old 01-19-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Right now I'm asking all of the guys that I messaged about their axles what amount of splines they have. I have heard to avoid the 27 spline before. Also I believe I have heard to not get one of the C 8.25 from an xj earlier than 96 (that's why I was leaning towards the guy with a 98 xj)
That one from the 98 has definitely seen mud and water though so it may be toast on the inside.
Old 01-19-2018, 03:34 PM
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The 8.25 that I can get and most likely will still get can be changed over to a 29 spline when I decide to lock it. After doing some research and I will continue to do so it is still better than the D35 even if it is 27 spline. If it has the room to be upgraded later then that is fine but most guys I have seen have beat the crap out of a 8.25 with 27 spline then lock it and still beat the **** out of it and no problems. So since it will not cost me anything except my time to do a swap I will consider but only if it is running the 3.55 gears I currently have or then it makes my Jeep useless in 4x4 until geared properly.
Old 01-19-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
The 8.25 that I can get and most likely will still get can be changed over to a 29 spline when I decide to lock it. After doing some research and I will continue to do so it is still better than the D35 even if it is 27 spline. If it has the room to be upgraded later then that is fine but most guys I have seen have beat the crap out of a 8.25 with 27 spline then lock it and still beat the **** out of it and no problems. So since it will not cost me anything except my time to do a swap I will consider but only if it is running the 3.55 gears I currently have or then it makes my Jeep useless in 4x4 until geared properly.
Do you plan on a full case Locker or a lunch box?


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