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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No-lift shackle relocation boxes, just as the name implies, lets you relocate the shackles without providing added lift. They replace the stock shackle buckets and, in most cases, provide a stronger mounting point with more options.
The standard shackle relocation boxes mount INSIDE the factory shackle mounts and will add about 2.5" minimum of lift to the rear of the Jeep. It will still provide you with multiple options for shackle angle, but you're kind stuck with at least a little bit of lift.
The standard shackle relocation boxes mount INSIDE the factory shackle mounts and will add about 2.5" minimum of lift to the rear of the Jeep. It will still provide you with multiple options for shackle angle, but you're kind stuck with at least a little bit of lift.
No-lift shackle relocation boxes, just as the name implies, lets you relocate the shackles without providing added lift. They replace the stock shackle buckets and, in most cases, provide a stronger mounting point with more options.
The standard shackle relocation boxes mount INSIDE the factory shackle mounts and will add about 2.5" minimum of lift to the rear of the Jeep. It will still provide you with multiple options for shackle angle, but you're kind stuck with at least a little bit of lift.
The standard shackle relocation boxes mount INSIDE the factory shackle mounts and will add about 2.5" minimum of lift to the rear of the Jeep. It will still provide you with multiple options for shackle angle, but you're kind stuck with at least a little bit of lift.
I mean I don't know most cases the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask.....Thanks for your help!
I watched a video today showing the installation of the brackets too. I see you have to cut away the factory brackets to make room for the new and run bolts through into the trunk? At least that was the HD no lift brackets installation. I don't mind that but just wondering if every setup is similiar?
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Central Arkansas
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If it didn't have that extra bracket welded on it I would almost thing it was a Rubicon Express setup being silver and all. Still might be though and if they are functional and working well then might as well leave it in. 4.5" lift do you have silver looking springs in the front? I would bet it had what was supposed to be level in the back to the front but like you said leafs are sagging and old.
What year is the XJ? (Wait your signature says 2000)
What year is the XJ? (Wait your signature says 2000)
I first thought they were rubicon express but the front springs are black and i can't find any #s on them to reference to. I am looking to at least get the jeep level again and go with new springs in the back but was trying to figure out what i have first but no biggie. It maybe a mix and match setup but i will do some more research.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
I watched a video today showing the installation of the brackets too. I see you have to cut away the factory brackets to make room for the new and run bolts through into the trunk? At least that was the HD no lift brackets installation. I don't mind that but just wondering if every setup is similiar?
That €™s the no lift hd offroad boxes. Other boxes sometimes only mount with the factory bolt and maybe a couple other bolts. The hd offroad no lift boxes mount very securely. The reason I recommend the no lift ones is then you can get some lift from shackles and some lift from springs and have a lot more adjustability through the system, where as with the lift relocation boxes aiming for 4.5 € of lift there isn €™t as many combination options of shackle and springs to get where you want. It €™s all doable, I just found for me the best combo was the no lift, shackles and the springs. Because with a lift spring and lift shackle you €™ll end up at 4.5 € of lift, but have no option to adjust shackle angle for proper suspension movement, at 4.5 € with stock shackles and lift spring with lift shackle boxes the shackles won €™t work because they €™re too short and will hit the boxes, with lift shackles and relocation boxes there aren €™t many spring options, you have to use a big shim for pinion angle, the springs will suffer, you will drag leaf springs and it €™s just not great in my opinion. Like I said may work for you, may make you happy, but for me the best option was lift springs, lift shackles and no lift brackets for the most articulation.
So if I get the no lift relocation brackets and some shackles you recommend that I should go with 3.5" full leafs then? Since my front will be 4.5" that should level it out rather than try to put 4.5" full leafs on it. I know we went over this already but just trying to recap and make sure. Thanks again for your help.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It is 100% up to you. I have 4.5†RE leafs and RE 1.25†lift shackles and I like the way my Cherokee sits. I don’t know how much weight you’ll have in the back on a regular basis, I don’t know if you’re towing with yours or not. Mine sits really well in my opinion. It has pretty good performance on the trail and the street. The no lift boxes don’t take too long to put in, I remember I started after dark and finished it the same night. Don’t know exactly how long, but doable and in my opinion worth it.
again, here is mine with the setup above and I believe I have my subwoofer, and maybe 50lbs or so of tools in the trunk. I have a hard time telling people what the “should get†because it’s all case dependent and different people are happy with different looks. I am extremely happy with how mine turned out.
again, here is mine with the setup above and I believe I have my subwoofer, and maybe 50lbs or so of tools in the trunk. I have a hard time telling people what the “should get†because it’s all case dependent and different people are happy with different looks. I am extremely happy with how mine turned out.
It is 100% up to you. I have 4.5 € RE leafs and RE 1.25 € lift shackles and I like the way my Cherokee sits. I don €™t know how much weight you €™ll have in the back on a regular basis, I don €™t know if you €™re towing with yours or not. Mine sits really well in my opinion. It has pretty good performance on the trail and the street. The no lift boxes don €™t take too long to put in, I remember I started after dark and finished it the same night. Don €™t know exactly how long, but doable and in my opinion worth it. Attachment 398790 again, here is mine with the setup above and I believe I have my subwoofer, and maybe 50lbs or so of tools in the trunk. I have a hard time telling people what the €œshould get € because it €™s all case dependent and different people are happy with different looks. I am extremely happy with how mine turned out.
I actually plan to have some camping gear and the spare mounted on the back at some point. For now it can stay on the roof rack which is more center then placed on the rear. I feel at times I could have close to 50lbs of gear if not little more added so having the beafer back end suspension just might be a better option overall.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Also to be noted is the springs will sit high when you first install them and will take some time to break in. Some people accelerate this process by carrying around very heavy objects in the rear for a while like sand bags or bags of concrete or something. So even if it is a little higher than you would like at first it will probably settle in.
Also to be noted is the springs will sit high when you first install them and will take some time to break in. Some people accelerate this process by carrying around very heavy objects in the rear for a while like sand bags or bags of concrete or something. So even if it is a little higher than you would like at first it will probably settle in.
After that I will finish collecting the stainless steel brake lines extended, lower adjustable control arms, track bar with bracket and shocks.
Lastly tires and then I should be ready to execute when everything comes in. I will keep the SYE on ready to be ordered as well but maybe I can get away with not putting one on at first. If I get any vibrations though I will be sure to order it and I plan to anyhow over time.
That last few more expensive items might have to wait until tax return such as tires and SYE. It has 32x11.5x15 on it now but previous owner did say it will need new tires. If I don't get to driving it the tires are no big deal because it will just sit in driveway until done. Still have family and full time job to attend to so the jeep will take time and my DD is my F350 so I don't need this on the road anytime soon.




