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Well I was thinking once I lift mine if you were close you could see it in person and then maybe it will make you want to lift yours So your just keeping yours stock for now and that's it? Do you do any off road in this area at all?
Not to make things any easier on what to order but I just got done chatting with a rep at Rusty's and the guy I spoke with told me that with my current RE 4.5" coils that if I just run the Rusty's 4.5" full leafs in the rear with nothing but stock shackles then it will be level with my front. Not sure how true that is but that is what he said. Of course he said I could run the UCA and LCA adjustables no problem as well and yes performance wise long arm would be better.
They do offer 5% military discount incase anyone here who serves or prior (retired) is wanting to know. Only thing is you need to call in and then provide e-mail address and copy of ID to get discount.
So my head is confused again but I think maybe I might take his word for it and pull the trigger on thier leafs. Then if for some reason I install them and they don't seem right I can always order the relocation brackets and shackles with no drop like mentioned above. I'm just wondering if RE leafs are better than the Rusty's anyone have expereince with either?
Not to make things any easier on what to order but I just got done chatting with a rep at Rusty's and the guy I spoke with told me that with my current RE 4.5" coils that if I just run the Rusty's 4.5" full leafs in the rear with nothing but stock shackles then it will be level with my front. Not sure how true that is but that is what he said. Of course he said I could run the UCA and LCA adjustables no problem as well and yes performance wise long arm would be better.
They do offer 5% military discount incase anyone here who serves or prior (retired) is wanting to know. Only thing is you need to call in and then provide e-mail address and copy of ID to get discount.
So my head is confused again but I think maybe I might take his word for it and pull the trigger on thier leafs. Then if for some reason I install them and they don't seem right I can always order the relocation brackets and shackles with no drop like mentioned above. I'm just wondering if RE leafs are better than the Rusty's anyone have expereince with either?
replaced my rough country leaf springs with RE 3.5" ones and been really happy with them for about a year now.
for 4.5" of lift you should get their 3.5" springs, and if you end up using no-lift relocation brackets, get longer shackles than stock.
i am running their 3.5" leaf springs with rough country shackles at the lowest setting and rough country relocation brackets. I sit at about 5-5.5" in the rear and 4.5 in the front. I don't mind it though. The extra height is the 1" that the relocation bracket added because RC brackets add some lift.
also i'm running on non-adj short arms and if I could redo it all over again I would go long arm straight away. or at least get drop brackets for the front to correct axle position. right now it's set a little further back than normal, and my coil is close to touching the bump stop. Honestly it drives fine but once I decide to get a long arm kit, I'm sure i'll feel the difference when going over bumps.
i have no experience with rustys which is why I didn't mention them
replaced my rough country leaf springs with RE 3.5" ones and been really happy with them for about a year now.
for 4.5" of lift you should get their 3.5" springs, and if you end up using no-lift relocation brackets, get longer shackles than stock.
i am running their 3.5" leaf springs with rough country shackles at the lowest setting and rough country relocation brackets. I sit at about 5-5.5" in the rear and 4.5 in the front. I don't mind it though. The extra height is the 1" that the relocation bracket added because RC brackets add some lift.
also i'm running on non-adj short arms and if I could redo it all over again I would go long arm straight away. or at least get drop brackets for the front to correct axle position. right now it's set a little further back than normal, and my coil is close to touching the bump stop. Honestly it drives fine but once I decide to get a long arm kit, I'm sure i'll feel the difference when going over bumps.
i have no experience with rustys which is why I didn't mention them
Good to know and thanks for your feedback! Yea I have read that the RE stuff runs bigger in height than what it says it is. Essentially a 4.5" RE leaf might actullly be more of 5.5" or slightly less. Wonder if it settles at all over time with weight on them. I'm sure I will add rear and front bumpers down the road but right now it does have roof rack with mounted spare on it.
The RE kits on their website do run the 3.5" full leafs in the rear with I believe the drop bracket in combination with your RE 4.5" coil spring up front. So that is why if I ran RE brand I would go with how you did it. Perhaps Rusty's kit 4.5" full leafs run exatly that height so that could be why the rep was telling me to purchas those and I'm sure they just wanted my buisness.
Last edited by XJIrish4x4; 10-05-2017 at 12:39 PM.
Not sure the text issue I have the apostrophe in there, maybe since I do all my replies on my phone. Anyway, no lift brackets do not have to be welded in. They can be bolted in which is how mine are. You can run adjustable upper and lowers, but may not get the tires completely centered in the wheel wells, geometry gets funky and won’t perform great at that height. You will most likely end up hitting the back of your front wheel wells with your tires when drooping where mine has a much more subtle arc. You’re going to want run something other than stock shackles since they won’t provide the correct amount of movement the lift springs really need, and when you get no lift shackle boxes and use a small extended shackle (around 1-1.5†lift shackle) then you will usually end up with about the same lift the springs advertise since the shackle angle is now corrected and flatter. Technically speaking 4.5†springs in the front 4.5†springs in the back is level compared to factory, but if you want the wheel wells to look proportional and aren’t chopping the fenders up and stuff then the rear flare is .5†lower than the front meaning 5†rear and 4.5†front would look level. I personally have tools and a subwoofer in the trunk at all time and tow a lot so I opted for more height in the rear since loaded down it’s very close. Honestly getting parts and testing different shackle angles and stuff is the best way to see what you like. I showed you what mine looks like and how it performs with my set up and told you what I have for my set up. That’s about as much as I can probably do over the internet.
Not sure the text issue I have the apostrophe in there, maybe since I do all my replies on my phone. Anyway, no lift brackets do not have to be welded in. They can be bolted in which is how mine are. You can run adjustable upper and lowers, but may not get the tires completely centered in the wheel wells, geometry gets funky and won €™t perform great at that height. You will most likely end up hitting the back of your front wheel wells with your tires when drooping where mine has a much more subtle arc. You €™re going to want run something other than stock shackles since they won €™t provide the correct amount of movement the lift springs really need, and when you get no lift shackle boxes and use a small extended shackle (around 1-1.5 € lift shackle) then you will usually end up with about the same lift the springs advertise since the shackle angle is now corrected and flatter. Technically speaking 4.5 € springs in the front 4.5 € springs in the back is level compared to factory, but if you want the wheel wells to look proportional and aren €™t chopping the fenders up and stuff then the rear flare is .5 € lower than the front meaning 5 € rear and 4.5 € front would look level. I personally have tools and a subwoofer in the trunk at all time and tow a lot so I opted for more height in the rear since loaded down it €™s very close. Honestly getting parts and testing different shackle angles and stuff is the best way to see what you like. I showed you what mine looks like and how it performs with my set up and told you what I have for my set up. That €™s about as much as I can probably do over the internet.
No your fine and you have already provided me more than I could have asked for in advice and feedback especially with your photos and your build. Don't take what I say the wrong way I was listening to what you said just trying to find a way to make this somewhat a budget but without sacraficing the necessity stuff. Long arm travel stystem just might not be in my budget this year. So I'm just trying to make do with what I have already and continue from there to make it trail ready. If for some reason I take it out and don't like it but can deal with it then at least then I will know for sure what I need and if that means long travel then I guess I will find out by testing.
It does seem that the 3.5" RE springs with relocation brackets and no drop shackles will be best. This way it does not hang up my rear and right about the same time your reply came in I was reading the Rough Country relocation bracket details stating you don't need to weld. (I want to learn how to and have guys who will show me but right now that is not something I can do) Welding is something I will learn though soon becuause it will come in handy for many reasons and esepecially with this Jeep. Christmas/Tax Return gift to me will be a welder
As in this might be ideal : "for 4.5" of lift you should get their 3.5" springs, and if you end up using no-lift relocation brackets, get longer shackles than stock." Like I said I just don't think I will be able to sink in money for long arm setup.
I just found out though that it might already have 2-4" lift on it since it has 32x11.5x15 tires on it. I'm not home to check so, they said it could be skyjacker setup. Not that I expect that to be good anyhow so it will get replaced with newer stuff. Then put 33" on it and call it a day
The rough country relocation brackets are the drop down ones that I used to have. I highly recommend the hd offroad no lift brackets, and it appears the fenders have been cut and maybe a budget lift.
Can anyone identify this brand of lower control arm? The picture is not the best but they are silver and look very well made, I bought this xj and it appears to have about 4.5 in the front and 3 in the back but I think the add a leaf is sagging pretty bad.
The rough country relocation brackets are the drop down ones that I used to have. I highly recommend the hd offroad no lift brackets, and it appears the fenders have been cut and maybe a budget lift.
I agree with fenders cut, considering they put the flares on it. I have my work cut out for me with it. She is a 1989 afterall and I do have some rust to clean up on the passenger floorboard. Doesn't appear to be anything besides there but we all know how rust can be. This is not going to be a restoration/DD so honestly it is not about the looks it is more of practicality. One day I may find one within my budget that is from the no rust belt states. I will also consider this to be Dad & family project with my 4 kids. That will be a indication that build will be slow but in time worth every moment spent with the kids working on it and then play.
My son actually will be driving in 4 years so I may just end up giving this one to him or finding him a better one but at least this way we will know a lot about them when that time comes.
Can anyone identify this brand of lower control arm? The picture is not the best but they are silver and look very well made, I bought this xj and it appears to have about 4.5 in the front and 3 in the back but I think the add a leaf is sagging pretty bad.
If it didn't have that extra bracket welded on it I would almost thing it was a Rubicon Express setup being silver and all. Still might be though and if they are functional and working well then might as well leave it in. 4.5" lift do you have silver looking springs in the front? I would bet it had what was supposed to be level in the back to the front but like you said leafs are sagging and old.
What year is the XJ? (Wait your signature says 2000)
The rough country relocation brackets are the drop down ones that I used to have. I highly recommend the hd offroad no lift brackets, and it appears the fenders have been cut and maybe a budget lift.
So if you recommened the no lifty brackets would you suggest then 3.5" leafs with no lift brackets from HD and then some kind of 1"-2" shackles? This way the rear will be level? What brand shackles did you use?
SatiricalHen, What is the difference between the no lift ones and the lift ones? Would expect that is for someone who needs to add more height in the back right? I got them on my radar the no lift ones and plan to order them this week. Little by little I will have everything ready when I get home. I also need to pinpoint some good tires to put on it too. The guy I got XJ from said he thinks 33 will run on it now but I'm nto too sure of that. Are teh 32x11.5x15 that far from 33"? I can look at tire comparison now to see but what are your thoughts?
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
