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I've heard great things about rubicon express, they only make a 3.5 inch kit not a 3. Can I expect any problems with that extra half-inch? Will I need a t case drop and things like that? My jeep has 180k on it so I kind of want to take it easy on the steering and stuff.
You need an SYE not a Tcase drop. RE 3.5" lift will net you more like 4 to 4.5". But most kits will net you more than advertised. Keep doing some research.
I understand that the subject is beat to death, but I'm not having any luck searching within the forum. I believe I am asking in the right thread.
I have a 2000 Cherokee Classic with no lift. I cut and folded my wheel wells and need to know what is the largest at tire size I can go with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I AM NOT PUTTING A LIFT OR B.B.(yet)
THANKS
Originally Posted by salad
31" tires should fit fine if you trimmed enough off. They can be fitted at stock height with large cut-out fender flares. You will need adapters or new rims with less backspacing.
This.
Here's a shot of mine with the same trim job, no lift, and 31x10.5r15s on TJ Canyons... only issue is some rubbing on the LCAs and swaybar at full lock.
I have 1" wheel spacers and I've cut approx. 1" off of the fenders. I looked at some Falken Wildpeak 265/75r16 and I'm told that they are more of a 32" tire and will not fit stock height. Do you happen to know what the 31" tire size would be for this application?
Okay, with the wheel spacers, you shouldn't rub. Make sure you get bumpstop extensions or some hockey pucks or tennis ***** to stick in your springs if your plan on wheeling it at all.... 'cause there's DEFINITELY not enough room to tuck 31's when you're running the spacers or backspaced wheels
Here's the same lift/tire combo on wheels with 4" bs
Im interested in getting the Rough Country 1.5 inch lift kit for my 2001 Cherokee XJ. It includes the adjustable lift shackles for the rear and the 1.5 inch coil spring spacers for the front, along with 4 of their N2.0 shocks. I was wondering what the lift would look like on 30 inch tires if anyone has any pictures and if anyone has any experience with this kit. Im running Goodyear Wrangler A/T SilentArmor tires, size P235/75r15. Thanks!!!
Here is my first XJ when I bought it, was my first time to actually drive it.
1.75" spacers, 1.5" shackles.
Did have brand new leafs and coils though.
235/75 tires, stock wheels with 1.25" spacers.
There were a couple of companies that used to make them. No one does anymore, unfortunately. One would have to have someone fab something up.
ETA: Just found these:
They're made for 4-runners, but a comment on another forum said that the Rampage brackets have the same bolt spacing as the 4-runner mounting points... so these should work.
Here is my first XJ when I bought it, was my first time to actually drive it.
1.75" spacers, 1.5" shackles.
Did have brand new leafs and coils though.
235/75 tires, stock wheels with 1.25" spacers.
I live in PA so wheel spacers arent an option for me since it wont pass inspection. I would like to refrain from getting new wheels and tires because i just got these tires not to long ago and they have a lot of tread on them but i would like to find another way to maybe widen the stance so I can get the Rugged Ridge fender flares
I live in PA so wheel spacers arent an option for me since it wont pass inspection. I would like to refrain from getting new wheels and tires because i just got these tires not to long ago and they have a lot of tread on them but i would like to find another way to maybe widen the stance so I can get the Rugged Ridge fender flares
If you're looking at a 1.5" spacer/shackle lift on stock springs, your Jeep will probably sit about .5" higher than it did when it was new. You'll be alright, but you'll rub your LCAs if you're on stock wheels
I live in PA so wheel spacers arent an option for me since it wont pass inspection. I would like to refrain from getting new wheels and tires because i just got these tires not to long ago and they have a lot of tread on them but i would like to find another way to maybe widen the stance so I can get the Rugged Ridge fender flares
I was just including the info about the spacers because they change the appearance of fender clearance.
I live in PA so wheel spacers arent an option for me since it wont pass inspection. I would like to refrain from getting new wheels and tires because i just got these tires not to long ago and they have a lot of tread on them but i would like to find another way to maybe widen the stance so I can get the Rugged Ridge fender flares
Don't need to buy new tires when you buy new rims. Steel rims are pretty cheap and the 'right' way to go.
If you really like your rims, though, talk to your shop that performs the inspection.
There is a class of device that is literally a "spacer" that is just a hunk of metal that sits between the mounting surface of the brake and the rim. These are extremely dangerous over a couple of millimeters thick as you lose both lug thread engagement and they seriously weaken hub-centric designs.
The law may have some wiggle room as devices like the Spidertrax spacer (http://www.spidertrax.com/Blemished-...category=20341) are really adapters. The difference is that they create a new mounting surface - they bolt independently to the brakes and they maintain hub-centricity so they're just as secure.
3/4-ton and 1-ton pickup trucks with dual rear wheels use similar adapters on the front axle straight from the factory.
I'll probaby go with the 1.5 inch shackle and coil spacers since i think a 3 inch lift kitn would make it look awkward with my size tires and wheels. I dont want it to look dumb lol but I ordered a SmittyBilt XRC Front Bumper and bull bar for it so that should be here soon.
I'll probaby go with the 1.5 inch shackle and coil spacers since i think a 3 inch lift kitn would make it look awkward with my size tires and wheels. I dont want it to look dumb lol but I ordered a SmittyBilt XRC Front Bumper and bull bar for it so that should be here soon.
I ran 3" lift with stock tires
It looked fine and everything till I got bigger tires.
So can 35's be ran on stock axles (HP D30, C8.25)? I've always planned on going to 33's, but I'm seriously considering bumping up to 35's. However, I'm not doing that if the axles can't handle it.
If it is ok to do, should the steering box be upgraded along with steering? I feel like steering's a given, but not sure if the stock box can hold up to it.
So can 35's be ran on stock axles (HP D30, C8.25)? I've always planned on going to 33's, but I'm seriously considering bumping up to 35's. However, I'm not doing that if the axles can't handle it.
If it is ok to do, should the steering box be upgraded along with steering? I feel like steering's a given, but not sure if the stock box can hold up to it.
A guy in my club has been running 36.5x13.5s on a dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25. He hasn't broken anything on his axles on the 5 trips I've been with him. You just need to build them up some (mostly the 30). A lot of other guys in the club are running 35s on their dana 30s, and the only break I've seen was a lp dana 30 trying to pull a Tahoe that had died on the trail up a steep wet incline and he was just hammering on it in reverse.
09-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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