Lots of different setups being mentioned here. A lot of it depends on how much you're willing to trim, so I'll start with stock suspension first.

- 235/75r15 is the largest tire you'll be able to fit without any trimming or additional bumpstop whatsoever. At full lock and stuff, they shouldn't rub as long as your factory bumpstops are still in tact. That being said, if your bumpstops are the original that came on the jeep, they're long overdue for replacement and will crumble the first time you flex the Jeep out.

-If you take off your flares and trim to the final lip (still have a little lip sticking off the fenders), you can fit 31x10.5r15 but will need to add about 1.5" of bumpstop - either through extended bumpstop or adding a spacer onto the axle where the bumpstop hits.

-There have been people who have had success with putting 33s on without any lift, but there is MAJOR trimming involved, and you'll pretty much have to add bumpstop to the point that you'll only have about an inch of up travel. This would be ideal for a lowCOG rig, but terrible for a daily driver. In essence, you could have just about as much downtravel as your control arms would allow as long as you got longer shocks as well. NOTE: This can be just as involved AND costly as lifting the jeep to begin with.

-2" budget boost. This usually entails adding a coil spring spacers up front and blocks (not recommended) or extended shackles in the rear. You can get away with the stock shocks on most applications, but the more you flex out the suspension, the more strain you put on the limits of your shocks. With a 2" boost you can fit about a 30x9.5r15 without any trimming - but you may want to add an extra bit of bumpstop spacing or extension.

- Under this category of 2" budget boost, however much you trim, can mean that much more tire diameter, BUT, realize that with each inch of tire diameter, you have to compensate by adding bumpstop.

-3-3.5" lift will accomodate 31" tires without trimming, generally speaking. See chart below for what is required to accomplish this lift.

- With proper trimming and bumpstopping, you can fit up to 33" tire (or 35+ if you're limiting uptravel to the point of lowcog)

-4.5" lift is generally what is recommended if you want 33s without trimming. See the chart below for additional components required to do this much lift.

 

Thanks for the response.


I do plan to wheel it pretty hard, so trying to learn here....I was looking at 10" rims since GY recommends a 8.5 to 11" rim for the 33x12.50... will an 8" rim not cause the tire to "bow" and wear uneven down the middle?

 

okay, thanks basslicks that should help me out alot, once i get into it, once thats on ill post some pics of the rig!

 

NewKindOfClown was 100% correct on the 8" wide wheel for a 12:50 tire I run 33's and 35's both on a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" of BS. It will hold a bead much better when aired down than a 10" one will.

 

You just run a little less air in your tires so they make a flat contact patch all the way across the tread.

 

NKofC, thanks!



Thanks to you Fred/NoAZZ as well. Looks like you are running about what I plan to end up with (4.5" of lift and 33's on a Cragar wheel), do the 33's rub on your control arms like NKofClown mentioned in his initial response, or does the 8" rim (versus the 10") solve that?

 

^^^It's the backspacing that solves that. Go with the 8" wide wheel.

 

I have a 1999XJ bone stock with a 29 8.25 rear end. It a 5 speed so I believe I'm geared at 3.07. I'm just wondering if I put a 3in lift and trim could I run 33 on stock gearing. It's a DD but I don't drive far and I don't really offroad other then find the occasional mud hole. Would I be okau for a couple months before I can throw a 4.11 with locker in it?
P.s. I'm new here so sorry if there's already a thread response on this

 

Excellent! Congratulations!

Sure, if you leave it in low range all the time

You'll need to do a new clutch at the same time It will have no power.

Wait until you can do the gears at the same time as the tires.

 

If I could find a 3.73 do you think it would tie me over?

 

if it's 4wd you would need front and rear axles to use 4wd in that period, also it would still suck pretty bad and use up a clutch quick. Maybe you could try a 2 lo kit, might be too low of gearing but a lot cheaper and easier than two axles... Just an idea.

 

You want to regear twice? I thought you were short on cash lol

 

Just put a 2 inch rustys kit with aal and new oem dorman leaf springs. Called rustys about this gap and they said it will go away when settled. Thoughts?

 

that's how an aal works. It tries to bend all the other springs by using one highly arched spring, it will settle and wear out quickly.

 

Even though I put new leaf springs to go along with an AAL? Eh I gave this route a shot. Didn't cost me much. I got the kit for 50 bucks from a good friend of mine.