Sounds like it didn't line up perfectly on the other side. I'd drive it back out and clean up the head a little where it mushroomed out.

You don't want the roll pin to back out and hit the ring gear.

 

I was afraid someone would say that...

It is weird how it was going in fine then got right to the last 1/8" and decided to quit.

 

Just make sure the roll pin didnt try to spin and is off center of where it needs to be. Dont want the roll pin to chew up the gears or lock the axle up.

 

I'd pull that pin out and tap the carrier for the bolt style cross shaft retainer.

 

I thought about that. I was not sure if I could do that though. That roll pin seems like a dumb way to secure the center pin. The Chrysler has a retaining bolt so why didn't they do that on the D30? I dunno...

At this point I may have to drill it out because I went back out in the garage and tried to tap it back out and it won't budge. I did manage to use the flat end of a punch and drive it the rest of the way in. I still don't like it though.

 

The hole is roughly a 1/4". I have a 1/4-20 tap. What is the best way to do this without damaging the carrier or messing up the hole?

 

If it is smaller than a 1/4" hole you could.

 

It measures 7/32" which is under a 1/4 and I think about the size hole you need for a 1/4 tap.

That pin is in there pretty tight. I don't feel like it is going to back out and let the main large pin come out. But then again there will be a lot of forces in motion once it is installed.

I can say this, that new main large center pin that came with the Spartan locker was tight going in. It took some pretty good wackin' to drive it it. So even if that securing pin was to back out far enough to let the main large center pin possibly move, I think it would be very hard for it to walk out of the hole as tight as it is in there.

 

It will. Happened at Harlan to a guy in our group. Ate up his pinion.

 

a #7 bit is what you need for a 1/4-20 tap. I'm not sure what that works out to, I can check the uglys book and let you know. If go get a quality tap before I started tapping my carrier, cheap taps break very easily and taps are a mother ****er to get out.

 

A #7 bit is just slightly bigger than a 13/64" bit. I took a quick look at my SAE tap drill chart and didn't see anything that used a 1/4" hole. I can't seem to find my metric one to see if there was a metric tap that would be a close fit

 

Looks like I will be taking the pin out then and tapping a hole.

You must be an electrician too? Love those Ugly books. Chock full of great info.

1/4-20 tap = 13/64 hole
1/4-28 tap = 7/32 hole

 

Next question, has anyone done this to their carrier and what is the best way to do this? Do I need to disassemble everything back down to a bare carrier then tap?

I already thread locked and torqued down the ring gear bolts. Don't want to have to take that off. I think that locker would be a mother getting back out too since those springs keep that thing in there tight.

 

id get some tap and trap to keep the shavings from going everywhere, and just make sure you don't get shavings places you don't want them. Maybe put some rags between the locker and the side of the carrier that your tapping just to make sure you don't get anything down in there.

 

Hey guys,

I'm just getting into upgrading my cherokee and looking at buying a 4.5'' RE lift and putting 33's on it. I've never wheeled, but this is my first truck and want to get into it. I'm probably not going to be an every weekender (IDK who is), but I'm in college and would like to go maybe like once a month. Otherwise this will be my dd. Would you recommend the 3'' lift with 31's or a 4.5'' inch with 33's? I'm currently looking at the Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs 33X12.50X15's. I saw a couple people were able to pick them up for around 155 bucks a tire. If anyone still has the receipt can they post a picture? I'd love to see if a place will price match it for me. The cheapest I've been able to find online was about 180 a tire after mail rebates etc.