My 3.73s can light up the 35 bfg ta/kos with the ax 15

 

Touché

 

Cheater - doesn't count when you wind the RPM's up to 4k and dump the clutch Hey where the crap have you been anyway?

Hey I like your sig, by the way. Very true statement that seems to be lost on some.

 

Thanks. That has been my motto on this build. I'm far from rich so it does have its draw backs, but from experience it is worth it in the long run.

 

Its almost the same as lifting and not doing a TC drop. Do the SYE and measure angles right away and order accordingly. I forget how much you drive but it should last for some miles providing you driving a jeep and not a race car

 

^ x2 don't run the rear shaft until the axle is shimmed correctly. front wheel drive jeep it for a while if you need to

 

Heheheh gotta love a little bit of burning rubber...and clutch....lol
Just been around, too broke for jeep stuffs

 

so, i have been contemplating between a re 3.5" lift or the 4.5" lift, the 4.5 is a little pricier but only like an extra 200$ after i buy the track bar that the 3.5 does not include. should i just go with the 4.5? my only hold back is the sye, some say ill need it with either lift kit... if thats the case ill just go ahead and go bigger. but is it necessary do you think for the 3.5"? the parts guy says sye is usually for 4.5 or higher. but lots of guys on here say ill need it for 3.5 anyways? i want to do it right for sure either way. but i look at it like if i save the couple hundred on the lift going with the 3.5 and not have to get the sye then i can possibly still have enough to re gear for 33's rather than running them with the stock gears until i can save for the regear later. or just little 31's i guess is an option too... what ya'll think? my jeep is an 94 xj sport, auto aw4 trans with the np231 tc i believe, i have the 8.25 rear as well and a d30 on the front. any info is great thanks..

 

At four and a half chances are....well it's a shot in the dark. honestly you can't tell until you have the lift installed. you won't know if you have driveline vibes until you get out and drive it with the lift. If you have the extra money to go ahead and get it it's never a bad idea. are you going to be putting degree shims under the rear axle? driveline vibes are created when the u joints are out of phase with each other and bind.

 

Personally, I'd get a SYE at 3.5". You'll likely get vibes, and your only other option is a tcase drop, which I wouldn't do. $200 isn't going to get you a re-gear, from what I've heard it's closer to the $1000 range when you factor in labor.

 

Exactly. If you really want to do it right, get an SYE. It's an upgrade even if your Jeep doesn't require it.

 

As far as the regear I have extra in budget for that if I can save some loot here and there. But spending on an sye and shaft it'll be pushing it with funds. I think ill just do the sye. Seems to be a concusses that it's best. Is that with the 3.5 in lift as well? And how do you feel about running 33's for a bit on my stock gearing? Also I know nothing of shims... Do I need them as well with sye and shaft? I don't want a t case drop. I hear its a dumb fix. I wanna start a build thread soon as I get going on this bad boy. I'm excited to finally have an off-road able machine again!

 

Regear can wait. You'll be gutless, but plenty of people have done it. You don't HAVE to buy a new shaft, a front shaft from the JY will work. Like I said, I would still do a SYE on a 3.5" lift, if for nothing more than being able to go higher in the future. There's no 100% sure chance that you'll NEED a SYE on 3.5" of lift, but again.. I WOULD.

From the RE website:

 

Ordered the 3" Full leaf spring Rough country lift the other day with extended brake lines for front and rear. Went back on today just to look and noticed a note that said "will fit 4-6 inch lift only" I have not called to see if that was adjustable (Not in time zone) Just curious if that would cause a problem.

 

The note was regarding the brake lines? No, not a problem.