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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #1636  
93turqXJ's Avatar
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From: Greensboro NC
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Long arms handle way better than short arms without drop brackets, while gaining significant amounts of ground clearance over any short-arm set-up.

That being said, I've heard a lot of not so great things about rocky road. I'm in the process of helping a buddy install their Dana 30 High-Steer kit. While the kit is well designed and built, the instructions are lacking and the kit doesn't fit quite right.

Old Man Emu is ARB's brand of suspension parts, very high-quality stuff and well worth the money. I'm running OME rear leaf packs and they've been fully inverted at least 10 times, yet I haven't lost so much as a 1/4" in lift height.

If you know anything about leaf packs, most of the time inverting them multiple times = death of the leaf pack.
So there is no danger to long arms like rock road states?
And i Wouldnt call them short arms but cause short makes it seem like your putting on a shorter control arm, confusing because newcomers may read that, no offense. Just stock or "short" hahaha

What about control arm drops with the "short" arms? better than long arms bout the same or worse?

How tall are the leaf packs? i would like about 6 inches of lift
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #1637  
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Originally Posted by 93turqXJ
So there is no danger to long arms like rock road states?
And i Wouldnt call them short arms but cause short makes it seem like your putting on a shorter control arm, confusing because newcomers may read that, no offense. Just stock or "short" hahaha

What about control arm drops with the "short" arms? better than long arms bout the same or worse?

How tall are the leaf packs? i would like about 6 inches of lift
They are short arms EVERYONE calls them that. Some aftermarket short arms are longer than stock but they still mount to the stock location, thus they're called short arms.

CA drops work well to fix bad control arm angles, but they have horrid ground clearance and get hung up on stuff all the time.

The biggest packs that Old Man Emu makes, even out at about 3" from what I know, and those are what I have on my XJ.

If you want 6" you need to get a set of 4.5" packs, shackle relocation brackets and a pair of extended shackles. This combo will give you the best flex, smoothest ride down the road, proper shackle angle and 6" of lift.

If you're gonna get 6" of lift, you might as well just do long arms up front, upgraded track bar, steering, SYE and CV driveshaft. Longer brake lines, and then gears for the much larger tires you'd be running.

To do all of that in one fell swoop expect to spend $3-5LK to do it the right way using quality aftermarket parts that will last. IF you had fab experience, and knew what you were doing you could probably do all of that for under $2K
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #1638  
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From: Greensboro NC
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
They are short arms EVERYONE calls them that. Some aftermarket short arms are longer than stock but they still mount to the stock location, thus they're called short arms.
You just proved my point. Just because everyone speeds doesnt make it right. I am an automotive tech and about to become ASE certified in over three fields without turning 18 yet, which is unheard of, Im sorry but I am very detail oriented and precise and thats how Ive gotten so far in the automotive industry. I cant see something that is a normal size being labeled as short because everything is relative to stock OEM and they are not shorter than stock. Im just trying to prove my point.

Yes I do have access to a lot of fabrication tools machines, I will be installing in a Ford dealership that does auto body stuff.

Thanks for all the info man. Will probably be doing a OME 5" or RE 5.5
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #1639  
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Originally Posted by 93turqXJ
You just proved my point. Just because everyone speeds doesnt make it right. I am an automotive tech and about to become ASE certified in over three fields without turning 18 yet, which is unheard of, Im sorry but I am very detail oriented and precise and thats how Ive gotten so far in the automotive industry. I cant see something that is a normal size being labeled as short because everything is relative to stock OEM and they are not shorter than stock. Im just trying to prove my point.

Yes I do have access to a lot of fabrication tools machines, I will be installing in a Ford dealership that does auto body stuff.

Thanks for all the info man. Will probably be doing a OME 5" or RE 5.5
All I see is "Blah Blah Blah". This has nothing to do with "Right and wrong" Its a common term for people to call them short arms. Nobody makes Control arms for Jeeps that are shorter than stock(that I know of), so stock length and similar are short arms. Everything else = long arms or medium arms(yes, there is one kit out there). They are called short arms because compared to long arms they are short.

If you don't have fabrication EXPERIENCE, I highly recommend against even considering building long arms, or steering parts from scratch until you've had the chance to Fab some non-critical parts.

I will say this once, and only once. DO NOT buy a lift kit from Rocky Road.

They by far have the biggest rip-off and sketchy-as-hell lift kit as I've ever seen. A T-Case drop instead of an SYE for a 5" lift? 1" rear blocks along with shackles?

Go with Rubicon Express. They are more expensive, but they also don't sell ****ty cobbled together lifts like Rocky Road does.

Last edited by ZachsXJ; Jan 15, 2011 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #1640  
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Will 4.5" of back spacing be enough to clear the leaf springs on a 12.5" wide tire? I have done some searching but have not found clear answers. I have already addressed the clearance issues in the front and am only asking about the rear.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #1641  
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Hey. If I install the RC 4.5" add a leaf kit, I've heard my leaf springs will start sagging. Is there any cheaper add on to keep it from sagging instead of paying another 200$ for full leaf kits? Thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #1642  
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From: Greensboro NC
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
All I see is "Blah Blah Blah". This has nothing to do with "Right and wrong" Its a common term for people to call them short arms. Nobody makes Control arms for Jeeps that are shorter than stock(that I know of), so stock length and similar are short arms. Everything else = long arms or medium arms(yes, there is one kit out there). They are called short arms because compared to long arms they are short.

If you don't have fabrication EXPERIENCE, I highly recommend against even considering building long arms, or steering parts from scratch until you've had the chance to Fab some non-critical parts.

I will say this once, and only once. DO NOT buy a lift kit from Rocky Road.

They by far have the biggest rip-off and sketchy-as-hell lift kit as I've ever seen. A T-Case drop instead of an SYE for a 5" lift? 1" rear blocks along with shackles?

Go with Rubicon Express. They are more expensive, but they also don't sell ****ty cobbled together lifts like Rocky Road does.
DUDE!!! your gonna call them short because they are shorter than the long ones? I guess I just look at it differently, I refuse to call them short arms

Whats your experience with rough country.

Wasnt planning on making the arms hahah but a good Idea, oh i was looking at a 6.5 rough country with the "LONG" arms hahah
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #1643  
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From: Greensboro NC
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by tavish_g
Will 4.5" of back spacing be enough to clear the leaf springs on a 12.5" wide tire? I have done some searching but have not found clear answers. I have already addressed the clearance issues in the front and am only asking about the rear.
Yea thats the minimum recomended backspacing so you should be golden
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #1644  
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Originally Posted by Nperryman
Hey. If I install the RC 4.5" add a leaf kit, I've heard my leaf springs will start sagging. Is there any cheaper add on to keep it from sagging instead of paying another 200$ for full leaf kits? Thanks
NOOOO With an AAL the vehicle weight has to be lifted by that ONE spring there is no safe way around getting a full pack, its worth the money

especially for 4.5 inches!!!! thats a good amount of lift
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #1645  
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Originally Posted by tavish_g
Will 4.5" of back spacing be enough to clear the leaf springs on a 12.5" wide tire? I have done some searching but have not found clear answers. I have already addressed the clearance issues in the front and am only asking about the rear.
Yes.

Originally Posted by Nperryman
Hey. If I install the RC 4.5" add a leaf kit, I've heard my leaf springs will start sagging. Is there any cheaper add on to keep it from sagging instead of paying another 200$ for full leaf kits? Thanks
Nope, don't bother with AALs. Do it right the first time and get full leaf packs.

If you can't afford to do it right the first time, how can you afford to do twice?

Originally Posted by 93turqXJ
DUDE!!! your gonna call them short because they are shorter than the long ones? I guess I just look at it differently, I refuse to call them short arms

Whats your experience with rough country.

Wasnt planning on making the arms hahah but a good Idea, oh i was looking at a 6.5 rough country with the "LONG" arms hahah
I explained my logic, nothing more to it. Compared to all other options they are short. Simple as that.

Rough Country has good quality stuff for the price, RE is better, but pricier.

Rough Country long arms are of a really crappy design if you ask me, the crossmember hangs down so low its just asking to get beat up on stuff.

Personally I'm going to build long arms, but if I weren't the only kit I'd buy would be the TNT kit.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 07:44 PM
  #1646  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ

All I see is "Blah Blah Blah". This has nothing to do with "Right and wrong" Its a common term for people to call them short arms. Nobody makes Control arms for Jeeps that are shorter than stock(that I know of), so stock length and similar are short arms. Everything else = long arms or medium arms(yes, there is one kit out there). They are called short arms because compared to long arms they are short.

If you don't have fabrication EXPERIENCE, I highly recommend against even considering building long arms, or steering parts from scratch until you've had the chance to Fab some non-critical parts.

I will say this once, and only once. DO NOT buy a lift kit from Rocky Road.

They by far have the biggest rip-off and sketchy-as-hell lift kit as I've ever seen. A T-Case drop instead of an SYE for a 5" lift? 1" rear blocks along with shackles?

Go with Rubicon Express. They are more expensive, but they also don't sell ****ty cobbled together lifts like Rocky Road does.
Rocky road sells quality parts from what I've bought from them. They maybe have sold me blocks in their lift but they were the highest quality blocks I've ever seen. Solid steel, and I've yet to see shackles made as strong as theirs. Along with then being greaseable. I know some things they sell aren't the best, but you can't completely count them out because of it.


Also, frankz makes a longarm kit that looks beefy as hell in my opinion....just an option. Search longarmz

Last edited by xj_maniac_newb; Jan 15, 2011 at 07:48 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #1647  
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I am new to repairs on my jeep, I didn't do any of the lifting that came with my used 1997 cherokee. When I bought it, it had a 3 inch kit on it, I have recently replaced the Relocation bracket on the front end and I have noticed that there is a lot of issues with the steering being extremely loose. What can I do to fix this problem, I was told I need new wheel cylinders but that isn't the problem right now. In addition when i accelerate from a cold stop I can hear a thumping sound from the rear end, I doubt that this is related, but I don't have a clue what that means either. Any help would be great. Thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:48 PM
  #1648  
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
Rocky road sells quality parts from what I've bought from them. They maybe have sold me blocks in their lift but they were the highest quality blocks I've ever seen. Solid steel, and I've yet to see shackles made as strong as theirs. Along with then being greaseable. I know some things they sell aren't the best, but you can't completely count them out because of it.


Also, frankz makes a longarm kit that looks beefy as hell in my opinion....just an option. Search longarmz
FrankZ does make some nice long arms, but TNTs kit comes with a belly skid as part of the crossmember. Can't beat that.

Blocks in a lift=no bueno.

Yes they do sell some quality parts but me personally and quite a few other people have had some serious customer service issues with them, and you can get better lifts for the same money you'd spend with them.

Originally Posted by MadhattaPUA
I am new to repairs on my jeep, I didn't do any of the lifting that came with my used 1997 cherokee. When I bought it, it had a 3 inch kit on it, I have recently replaced the Relocation bracket on the front end and I have noticed that there is a lot of issues with the steering being extremely loose. What can I do to fix this problem, I was told I need new wheel cylinders but that isn't the problem right now. In addition when i accelerate from a cold stop I can hear a thumping sound from the rear end, I doubt that this is related, but I don't have a clue what that means either. Any help would be great. Thanks
The steering could be any of a number of things, I'd check your track bar, drag link, tie rod and all of the joints and ends associated with those parts.

The thumping is probably a bad u-joint in the rear end.

Last edited by ZachsXJ; Jan 15, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:11 AM
  #1649  
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Hey guys, I was thinking of getting a lift soon, and it wold either me a 3" kit or long arms, depending on my budget.

Now, if I were to get the 3" kit, I was thinking about OME, but I see that it does not come with control arms:

http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scri...?idproduct=429

Either OME, Iron Rock Off Road, or Rough Country with the spring pack and lower arms is what I was thinking for 3".



However, if I have a slightly higher budget, I was thinking about the IRO 4" Critical Path LA Kit:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX



Any opinions on that long arm kit? It is the best I have seen price wise, especially when I am on a college budget and can not afford Clayton's, etc.


I am leaning more towards 3" because I have an NP242 and I believe (might not be correct) that anything 3" or lower you do not need major things like SYE, brake lines, etc.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:23 AM
  #1650  
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Originally Posted by AeroSync
Hey guys, I was thinking of getting a lift soon, and it wold either me a 3" kit or long arms, depending on my budget.

Now, if I were to get the 3" kit, I was thinking about OME, but I see that it does not come with control arms:

http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scri...?idproduct=429

Either OME, Iron Rock Off Road, or Rough Country with the spring pack and lower arms is what I was thinking for 3".



However, if I have a slightly higher budget, I was thinking about the IRO 4" Critical Path LA Kit:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX

Any opinions on that long arm kit? It is the best I have seen price wise, especially when I am on a college budget and can not afford Clayton's, etc.


I am leaning more towards 3" because I have an NP242 and I believe (might not be correct) that anything 3" or lower you do not need major things like SYE, brake lines, etc.

I'd either do the Old Man EMU, or Rough Country.

If you can afford it definitely get the IRO Long Arms with Full Leaf packs, You'll end up wanting long arms eventually if you don't do it now.

3" would be better for not needing an SYE, but you need to extend your brake lines either way. You can do it for super cheap by using stock parts meant for other vehicles.
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