?? about grinding out backing plate for disc conversion
#1
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Location: British Columbia
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is it possible to get the wrong ZJ parts??
I just picked up the disc brake assembly for my swap and so I decided to check how much I have to grind out. I have'nt quite started yet as I have to rebuild the brake parts, ( lots of rust and gunk ). Anyways I took my caliper to measure the axel tube and compare that to the hole in the backing plate. According to what I have, I have to grind out alot,( almost into the 4 bolt holes) and from all the pics I've seen it does'nt match up with what I have. Is the axel tube narrower at the backing plate end? The jeep I got it off of said it was a 94 grand, it had abs, does this make a difference ? Did I get something else by mistake? I'm trying to get all my info straight before I tear apart my jeep as it is my DD and I have to get it completed in 1 day.
Also I read somewhere that I can use D30 lugs. Is this true or better to get ZJ lugs.
Thank you for all the help.
Also I read somewhere that I can use D30 lugs. Is this true or better to get ZJ lugs.
Thank you for all the help.
Last edited by 98xjeeper; 07-30-2012 at 03:38 PM.
#2
Junior Member
Yes, it narrows down at the end. You'll see when you pull the old backing plates off. You don't have to grind off a lot.
This is a picture of the end of an 8.25. The bolt pattern you see here is the same bolt pattern on the backing plates that you pulled off of the ZJ.
This is a picture of the end of an 8.25. The bolt pattern you see here is the same bolt pattern on the backing plates that you pulled off of the ZJ.
Last edited by Lowrange2; 07-30-2012 at 04:26 PM.
#3
you can use ZJ studs if you're running stock wheels; im using ZJ studs with aluminum wheels and they work fine, but i do wish they were a little bit longer. i try to err towards the 'overkill/damn-sure' side when it comes to something that important lol.
the amount of material you have to grind is so miniscule that i didnt even measure anything; i just kept grinding away with a grinding stone until it fit nice & snug on the axle. took me about 5 minutes per side. you'll love em when your done though, stops on a dime and way less nosedive.
never heard anything about d30 studs... i cant imagine theyd be much longer, if any, but i couldnt say for sure.
the amount of material you have to grind is so miniscule that i didnt even measure anything; i just kept grinding away with a grinding stone until it fit nice & snug on the axle. took me about 5 minutes per side. you'll love em when your done though, stops on a dime and way less nosedive.
never heard anything about d30 studs... i cant imagine theyd be much longer, if any, but i couldnt say for sure.
Last edited by rompnXJ; 07-30-2012 at 05:50 PM.
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks guys, I just went out and got new pads, rotors and even parking brake shoes. Just have to get some calipers and maybe brake cables. Maybe I'll try to mod the cables I have, not sure yet.
Again, thanks for the input. I always check all my cherokee work with this forum.
Again, thanks for the input. I always check all my cherokee work with this forum.
#6
CF Veteran
The reason you'd use the Dana 30 studs is becuase they are more plentiful in the JY.Same lengh & prob. just as strong.
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