That was my first thought- so I did it manually from outside the car. Nope, not it. I am thinking I have some serious vacuum leaks around the mickey rigged base at least LOL. I am going to have to put a real adapter on there. I wish I knew what carb this was so I could see if it some kind of universal base? Otherwise, I will be making a plate similar to a prior post. I find the craziest crap on this thing all the time. Great instances of Big Island mickey rigging LOL. The injector holes in the manifold are all blocked off by set screws, for instance, and the throttle linkage where it connects to the carb is clearly fence wire from a heavy duty electric fence. I recognize it from my farm LOL

 

Looking back at the pics it's vaguely familiar.
Off to to do some research.....

 

I'm thinking ford or AMC...

 

Looks like an Autolite/Motorcraft 2150 2brl carb.
AMC did use them on lots of different cars, and Jeep's.
I have an extra one here from a FSJ Wagoneer if you need one? The one here did come off of a 1974 AMC 360.

Also is that the fuel supply line bolted to the intake manifold?
If so might want to rethink that, as carbs are even more prone to not wanting to start (or even quit running) once they get warm. AKA Vapor lock.

 

I'll second that it's either a Motorcraft 2100 or 2150. The dead spot is probably because the power valves are sub quality on those. Quick fuel makes one that's a 4 window and it works well. Power valves are sold by the vacuum at which they open, so use the idle vacuum divided by 2.

I had a 2150 on my 81 J10 until it burned down... because the carb float jammed up... while driving. It lost power, then smelled like fuel, then the fire.

 

My Barry Grant race demon on a 4.0 manifold. Secondaries are non-functional, 325 cfm thru fronts.

 

Another view

 

Dang, trying to read all the "carb w0n'T wurk for off-roAdEn and bad G4ss".
*laughs in 79. pfff, please. Climbs all the time in the rockies. Starts up in dead of winter @-deg. Get about 15mpg daily. Dana44/9in/33in BFGs.


As we build up the electrical, computer controlled 98 XJ to get it as good as my 79 and take it out in the middle of nowhere.... I doubt we will ever 'just' take the XJ out....
But yes, I would have thought a single brl carter YFA would be sufficient for the 4.0 jeep. I guess a 2100 or 2150... but probably not needed.

 

Carb on a jeep/amc straight 6? Seems to work well for Newcomer. Might seem crazy now, but you are only one large solar flare/emp away from being the neighborhood taxi and proving everyone else wrong.

 

Greetings all. Newbie here with no Jeep. Have owned 3. 1 CJ 5 (me), 1 Grand Cherokee Laredo (wife), 1 Cherokee XJ (wife). Looking at some as time allows. Regarding the carb conversion. If all is well, a fuelie is definitely my preferred system. With that said, they can be a royal pain to trace down a problem sensor, vacuum leak, all that. I converted my 89 Trooper to carb. I basically retro'ed to an older carb intake manifold and old style vacuum advance distributor and coil. Went from many sensors and vacuum lines to no sensors and, excluding the large line to the brake booster, 1 line which goes to the vacuum advance. The wire pigtail from both dizzies were the same except for an additional (data)wire. I was even able to take the tach wire and splice into the proper wire behind the tach. The original wire ran through the ECM.

I went with a basic downdraft Weper 32/36 with an automatic choke. I had a little issue with dieseling in the beginning. With a little work (float level / re-jetting) and regulating the fuel pressure (1.5 - 2 lbs.), could not have asked for a better fuel delivery system. A couple of other minor mods were included out of necessity. Granted, the Trooper is more for short trips and farming stuff on mostly even terrain. But I have seen simple mods to gat around fuel starvation / flooding on steep and crazy "4-wheeling terrain.

Prior to, I had zero experience with carbs. None. Google became my intimate friend. Mostly, I give much, much credit to Mr. Bud Pauge. Then (2011), he was director of Redline, Inc. They're the primary U.S. distributor of "real" Webers". Pretty much the only one I trust. Not only is he the chief, he is hands - on with 4x, sports cars, etc. Knows his stuff. He helped me more than should be allowed via email' and telephone. It mostly involved change after change to the float-level. Increments of 1mm at a time til it was nailed. I quickly became with that particular Weber. Not exaggerated, as soon as the key is rotated, it starts right up and run greats. I was expecting a loss of power but worse case, it's absolutely equal to the F.I. system. Granted the F.I. system was 89 vintage. Just thought I'd give my 2 cents as a new member. Thanks.

EDIT: Crap, Looking at a local Cherokee Sport in Marketplace and received a reply to a question I had. Was it the 4.0 and 4WD.. No and no. Oh well.

 

Don't get me wrong. I like simplicity. Traditional fuel injection is not more complicated than carburetion. It'll just be easier/faster/cheaper to find and fix what is wrong. Get some wiring diagrams, a multimeter, and start disconnecting stuff one by one until you find that parasitic draw.

 

Just seems to me you'd spend way more time doing the conversion than you ever would working on the fuel injection over the life of the vehicle.

 

From my single experience, with parts gathered, the labor is less than 1 day. Troubleshooting issues with fuel injection can be a nightmare at times. Which system, which analyzer, experience level, etc. Even the best of the best can give only a "guesstimate" as to which sensor is malfunctioning compared to which is throwing a code. Additionally, R&R on some sensors is very labor extensive, to include but not limited to, partial dismantlement of the engine. No thanks. Of course with all this in mind, the individual needs to know and respect all federal, state, local emissions laws and how they apply to their situation.