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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
2.5l 4 cylinder with the V6 manual transmission....from the wiki page:

Jeep XJs came in several standard gearing ratios:

3.07:1, manual transmission, I6 engine.
3.54:1, automatic transmission, I6 engine with Dana 44 rear differential
3.54:1, manual transmission, I4 engine with Dana 35 rear differential
3.55:1, automatic transmission, I6, V6 engines; manual transmission, I4 engine
3.73:1, automatic transmission, I6, tow package, UpCountry package, 2.5 VM diesel manual
4.10:1, 2.5L I4 engine, V6 manual transmission
4.56:1, automatic transmission, I4, offroad or tow package


That's wiki for ya.........

It's an AX5 trans............>>NOT a v6 trans.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:45 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Jeep Driver
That's wiki for ya.........

It's and AX5 trans............>>NOT a v6 trans.
well there ya go, LOL...just remember seeing that there once, LOL

I'll man up to my mistake, haha!

EDIT: After looking at it closer, I believe they meant the I4 2.5l, and the 2.8 V6 motors....with a manual trans

Last edited by Rogue4x4; Nov 1, 2015 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:19 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
I can one of your questions very quickly and easy. YES change the gears to a 4.56 ratio that is the correct setup for a 33" tire and can be ran with a 35". I run both sizes on 2 sets of wheels on mine with 4.56's, my 35's are for off road only the 33's serve as both on and off road.


Your going to have and change gears in the front also so might as well do both with the correct gear. I bought my 4.56's from Rustys for my 8.25/D30 with both master install kits for under $500.


You can sell the 4.10's to someone running 31's on a 2wd XJ that correct for that tire.
You'd recommend 4.56s for even if it is a DD and only sees light trails(no rocks)? The best I have to compare are those gear charts, what are your RPMs like on highway with the 33/4.56?
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:30 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
So, if you're taking it somewhere, why not just have them do the work? They're gonna have to do it all again anyways, regardless of what you have or haven't done. How do you know the axle isn't bent? Did you paint the gears and get a pattern before you disassembled? Measure the preload on the pinion with a running torque wrench? There's a LOT involved when doing this type of work, and it certainly does take someone who KNOWS what they're doing, to do it correctly. The way your original post read, the advice given was valid. Lashing out at knowledgeable folks on the site for your **** poor wording isn't cool.

As far as re-using the gear set...yes it can be done, but, I'm a fan of replacement with known good parts, so personally I would NOT re-use a gearset. If you're planning on going bigger tires, now is the time to get a different gear set, and as mentioned, you'll need to do the front axle as well, unless you're 2wd. That said, if the old gearset is in decent shape, sell it, recoup some of your cost. If you decide to go with a new gearset, just stop what you're doing, take the axle to the shop, and let them take care of it. They need to do things like get the numbers off the current gearset, measure the shim packs, things like that, and it would be easier for them to do it, and get it right, than have to try and backtrack what you may or may not have done. Just my 2 Lincolns.
When I opened the rear diff it still had somewhat of a fresh paint pattern on it..AND the dude I bought them from said he had recently redid the gears then had blown the motor and was parting out. The axle looks straight, I have it sitting up off the ground so if it is bent, it's minor. That pattern looked spot on also, that is why I went with tearing it apart. I've separated everything from where it came. I believe all 8.25s are those tension screws over shims so that should make it easier. I didn't mess with the pinion yet. Just carrier and ring gear, and axles so I could get to the disc brakes.

As for bringing somewhere, that is a good point. I might just get quotes now because I never thought of them wanting to set the whole thing up to avoid problems.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:37 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Jeep Driver
Chrysler 8.25 (factory) are 4.10s, not 4.11s........not that it matters, but that's what it is.


You screwed the pooch, you should have never touched a factory LSD 4.10, you should have sold it.
There is some guy hunting and hunting and hunting for that rear....as I was for 4 months. Needed it to match my front. They only came with the 2.5 XJ.
If you are going to re-gear you should have used a dime-a-dozen 3.55

I run 32s with a tired 2.5 and will run 33s (305-65-18) next year with a fresh 2.5........does just fine with 4.10.





I bought a 8.25 with disc & 4.10/4.11, I can't remember exactly right now. BUT!! With that 8.25 came a high pinion D30 with matching gears. So, I don't feel I got burned, I think I got a pretty good deal for a set of axles to work on. Both diffs are open also, I never mentioned LSD being in, but mentioned wanting to "put in" an LSD(truetrac). I currently have a dime a dozen 3.55 8.25. Its on my jeep that has become my DD and life has me stuck to no other vehicles, so I figured this was the best bet to make progress w/o buying a new car to drive.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:41 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for not bailing on me, that first day was a really stressful(work and other BS) day and I'm sorry for getting sandy.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 10:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Shortleged1
You'd recommend 4.56s for even if it is a DD and only sees light trails(no rocks)? The best I have to compare are those gear charts, what are your RPMs like on highway with the 33/4.56?

4.56 gears and 33" tire bring the Jeep back to what it came with stock a set of 3.55 gears. Mine on the highway doing speed limit (55mph) is about 1570 rpm's at (70 mph) about 1750-1800 rpm's. I do have a considerable drag factor and weight but still can get about 16-17 mpg highway 4 1/2" lift.


Mine is not a rock crawler either but some difficult trails we run a lot.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
4.56 gears and 33" tire bring the Jeep back to what it came with stock a set of 3.55 gears. Mine on the highway doing speed limit (55mph) is about 1570 rpm's at (70 mph) about 1750-1800 rpm's. I do have a considerable drag factor and weight but still can get about 16-17 mpg highway 4 1/2" lift.


Mine is not a rock crawler either but some difficult trails we run a lot.

How accurate would you call this http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.php

It looks like the 4.56 w/ 35s is just as close to the 4.11 w/ 33s on that number which is close to the stock/3.55 setup. Weight wise, I just have bumpers and winch.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 03:33 PM
  #24  
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Something you haven't mentioned...what type of transmission do you have? Auto or manual? It will make a difference...
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Shortleged1
How accurate would you call this http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.php It looks like the 4.56 w/ 35s is just as close to the 4.11 w/ 33s on that number which is close to the stock/3.55 setup. Weight wise, I just have bumpers and winch.
that chart doesn't just apply to manuals, they also apply to automatics in third gear (1:1) at 60 mph. With manual 5 speed at 1:1, it would be the fourth gear.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
that chart doesn't just apply to manuals, they also apply to automatics in third gear (1:1) at 60 mph. With manual 5 speed at 1:1, it would be the fourth gear.
Instead of guessing, just go here and plug in your numbers...

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by roninofako
Instead of guessing, just go here and plug in your numbers... http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
excellent calculator.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 09:26 PM
  #28  
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I have been told I have a 8.25. How would I verify this?
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 10:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by T-Rexj
I have been told I have a 8.25. How would I verify this?
Look at the diff cover. A Dana 35 will say Dana on the cover and be flush with the bottom of the housing. The 8.25 will stick down below the diff cover.
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by toasterknight
Look at the diff cover. A Dana 35 will say Dana on the cover and be flush with the bottom of the housing. The 8.25 will stick down below the diff cover.
Makes sense thanks for the info...
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