6.5" vs 4.5" long arm?
It's about that time to order a long arm lift. I've been stuck between 6.5" or 4.5". My fenders are already trimmed a good bit and I will be running 35's. I've seen 35's ran with a 4.5" long arm lift, but I want the most flex possible. Also by getting the 6.5" I don't wanna be too tall. Any input from you guys??
Why not go in the middle and run 5.5.
A lot of it depends on how much ground clearance you want/need. What kind of terrain you plan on wheeling, how much up travel you want/need. 4.5 will require a lot more bump stopping to keep from rubbing which limits your up travel.
Both have their pros and cons.
A lot of it depends on how much ground clearance you want/need. What kind of terrain you plan on wheeling, how much up travel you want/need. 4.5 will require a lot more bump stopping to keep from rubbing which limits your up travel.
Both have their pros and cons.
Why not go in the middle and run 5.5.
A lot of it depends on how much ground clearance you want/need. What kind of terrain you plan on wheeling, how much up travel you want/need. 4.5 will require a lot more bump stopping to keep from rubbing which limits your up travel.
Both have their pros and cons.
A lot of it depends on how much ground clearance you want/need. What kind of terrain you plan on wheeling, how much up travel you want/need. 4.5 will require a lot more bump stopping to keep from rubbing which limits your up travel.
Both have their pros and cons.
Yeah 5.5 would probably be perfect. It will mostly be used for wheeling. Will not be a daily driver.
For the rear im going with 3.5 leafs, +1" shackle and shackle relocation brackets that adds around an inch to an inch and a half.
For my 3 link I plan on going with RE 5.5 coils up front which actually net around 6" from what ive heard. But with a bumper, winch, etc should be back down a little bit.
For the rear im going with 3.5 leafs, +1" shackle and shackle relocation brackets that adds around an inch to an inch and a half.
For the rear im going with 3.5 leafs, +1" shackle and shackle relocation brackets that adds around an inch to an inch and a half.

Cav Fab's alpha 3 link. They are about to realease a new kit. For the price it cant be beat IMO.
http://cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-Cherok...Link_p_61.html
Check out this thread. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/ca...24775/index13/
http://cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-Cherok...Link_p_61.html
Check out this thread. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/ca...24775/index13/
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CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 61
From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do not understand when people say you will need to bump stop more with a lower lift. The lift height doesn't change the location of the frame. I understand you will hit your bumpstops more with a lower lift, but I do not understand why you would need longer bump stops with a lower lift. What am I missing?
I would suggest 4.5", then use spacers if you want to go higher.
I would suggest 4.5", then use spacers if you want to go higher.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It depends on where you plan on wheeling at and the conditions you will see.
I chose a 4 1/2" lift to keep my center of gravity down as I'm in the National Forest's a lot and many of the trails are off camber big time. That along with the fact of low hanging tree limbs, no big time crawling where I go just trails a lot of them on private ground where you can make your own.
I chose a 4 1/2" lift to keep my center of gravity down as I'm in the National Forest's a lot and many of the trails are off camber big time. That along with the fact of low hanging tree limbs, no big time crawling where I go just trails a lot of them on private ground where you can make your own.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could also use a 1" Boomerang Shackle (very good flex) and a ACOS spacer in the front to adj. for any height you desire
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 122
Likes: 7
From: Enid America
Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 5.7L LS1
I agree with going in the middle. 5.5" of lift is perfect for 35's! I'm on Clayton long arms and running Metalcloak 3.5" springs w/ ACOS spacers up front and Clayton 4.5" leafs w/ Clayton shackles (adjusted to +2.5" to compensate for the added weight of the bumper) in the rear. With pretty much exactly 5.5" all around.


Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do not understand when people say you will need to bump stop more with a lower lift. The lift height doesn't change the location of the frame. I understand you will hit your bumpstops more with a lower lift, but I do not understand why you would need longer bump stops with a lower lift. What am I missing?
I would suggest 4.5", then use spacers if you want to go higher.
I would suggest 4.5", then use spacers if you want to go higher.


