33's on stock axles...
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 62
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey I'm new to the tread but I had an 07 rubi with a 3.5 inch long arm and 35's and had to sell
but its all good because I picked up an XJ!
I know it has the 8.25 in the rear and 30 up front with the 3.73's. I'm planning on doing the RC 6.5" long arm and just running 33's maybe some sweet 32" rubi take off's. will the stock axles and gears be okay with 33's?
but its all good because I picked up an XJ!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 62
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well the reason I ask is if I re-gear I might as well do lockers. For that kind of money you might as well buy the G2 D44's with gears and lockers and run 35's? I guess what I'm really wondering is all that really worth it? Anybody running 33's without gears and open diff's running into problems??
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 447
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From: Auburn, CA
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 242 HO
I'm on 5 cylinders, 3.54 gears d44/30 and 33" mudders, I get 16mpg with this set up and can still spin my tires when wanted, I'm personally replacing the engine/trans very soon, and my new drivetrain will be complimented with 4.56 gears
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 823
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From: Raleigh,NC
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
^want a cookie?
Man I gave my xj hell on stock axles and 33s and never broke a thing. Then I locked and geared both axles and had u joint/shaft failure here and there....then stepped up to 35s and broke **** all the time. Finally toasted the carrier in the d30 so now I'm running a waggy 44/explorer 8.8 set up.
If you wanna spend the dough on G2 44's, be my guest. You gotta decide for yourself if it's worth it or not by what you do with your jeep. If I were going to drop 6 grand in axles I'd build 1 tons personally....
Man I gave my xj hell on stock axles and 33s and never broke a thing. Then I locked and geared both axles and had u joint/shaft failure here and there....then stepped up to 35s and broke **** all the time. Finally toasted the carrier in the d30 so now I'm running a waggy 44/explorer 8.8 set up.
If you wanna spend the dough on G2 44's, be my guest. You gotta decide for yourself if it's worth it or not by what you do with your jeep. If I were going to drop 6 grand in axles I'd build 1 tons personally....
Last edited by Jarrett; Feb 8, 2013 at 09:37 PM.
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 238
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From: Oklahoma City
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L 242
3.5" RE Superflex, full rear packs yada yada yada. AW4 on D30/C8.25 with 3.55s turning 32" KM2s.
The only thing that died is my mileage I get a steady 16mpg (averaged over 2 different GPS units).
This debate is just like any other with 2 more camps. Some will come in and say, "z0mg you should do full widths and weld the spiders because :brofist:!!!!11!!!two!!1" and then you'll get people who do just fine.
It depends on what you're going to do with it. Some people have broken parts with stock set-ups and big tires and an equal number of people have been rolling along for years on stock set ups and large tires.
If you have money to throw at it then why not I suppose. You could probably source a Ford 8" or Toyota rear or some Waggy 44's for A LOT less than the price of a single G2 axle.
The only thing that died is my mileage I get a steady 16mpg (averaged over 2 different GPS units).
This debate is just like any other with 2 more camps. Some will come in and say, "z0mg you should do full widths and weld the spiders because :brofist:!!!!11!!!two!!1" and then you'll get people who do just fine.
It depends on what you're going to do with it. Some people have broken parts with stock set-ups and big tires and an equal number of people have been rolling along for years on stock set ups and large tires.
If you have money to throw at it then why not I suppose. You could probably source a Ford 8" or Toyota rear or some Waggy 44's for A LOT less than the price of a single G2 axle.
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