33's Best Setup?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: St. Albert
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
You sure you know what caster is? Control arm drops (especially Rough Country- I know from experience) do NOT fix the caster. At 4" lift height, my caster was at 0* with the drop brackets installed. With full shims in the caster adjustment shim box, I got both sides to 2.5*.
You sure you know what caster is? Control arm drops (especially Rough Country- I know from experience) do NOT fix the caster. At 4" lift height, my caster was at 0* with the drop brackets installed. With full shims in the caster adjustment shim box, I got both sides to 2.5*.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 356
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Honestly bud, if you're not going to listen to what anybody has to say then why ask? Judging from what you're saying, you want the cheap route and not the proper route.
3" coils and spacers with the 3" leafs and shackles will probably clear those 33's with no trimming, but there will be very little flex. You will need to either redrill your track bar or get an adjustable one. Longer shocks will be a must. Extended swaybar connects will be a must. A drop pitman arm will probably be a must. Extended brake lines are a good idea. You can make extended bumpstops.
If you're going to make drop brackets it will only make sense if you drop both the upper and lower control arms. Adjustable control arms top and bottom would be a good idea. I'm assuming you won't be doing to much wheeling because it's 2wd so id recommend just leaving the sway bars on.
IMO I think it would be smarter to do the 4wd conversion first.
3" coils and spacers with the 3" leafs and shackles will probably clear those 33's with no trimming, but there will be very little flex. You will need to either redrill your track bar or get an adjustable one. Longer shocks will be a must. Extended swaybar connects will be a must. A drop pitman arm will probably be a must. Extended brake lines are a good idea. You can make extended bumpstops.
If you're going to make drop brackets it will only make sense if you drop both the upper and lower control arms. Adjustable control arms top and bottom would be a good idea. I'm assuming you won't be doing to much wheeling because it's 2wd so id recommend just leaving the sway bars on.
IMO I think it would be smarter to do the 4wd conversion first.
Honestly bud, if you're not going to listen to what anybody has to say then why ask? Judging from what you're saying, you want the cheap route and not the proper route. 3" coils and spacers with the 3" leafs and shackles will probably clear those 33's with no trimming, but there will be very little flex. You will need to either redrill your track bar or get an adjustable one. Longer shocks will be a must. Extended swaybar connects will be a must. A drop pitman arm will probably be a must. Extended brake lines are a good idea. You can make extended bumpstops. If you're going to make drop brackets it will only make sense if you drop both the upper and lower control arms. Adjustable control arms top and bottom would be a good idea. I'm assuming you won't be doing to much wheeling because it's 2wd so id recommend just leaving the sway bars on. IMO I think it would be smarter to do the 4wd conversion first.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 356
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
I just want to add, im also 19.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 8
From: Burlington, NC
Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
I don't see where they went off topic. I do see where they gave you their opinion based on their research and experience. However, you seem to be much more informed and already have had the answer before posting question.

Therefore, I'll give you what you really want:

Therefore, I'll give you what you really want:
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Listen closely. Shimming the rear axle does not have a single ****ing thing to do with setting the caster of the front 2wd beam. Shim the rear axle if you want to. Go for it.
When your Jeep drives like **** don't ask for my help.
******* know it all kids.
Last edited by Lowrange2; May 7, 2014 at 12:04 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 888
Likes: 1
From: Rockford, IL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
dude you need longer control arms on the front or your whole entire fking axle will be too far back. Your springs will be bent backwards and your dd is gonna ride like **** and putting that stress from bumps n sht on your axle is going to tear everything else apart. But, your dad has a fab shop, so post a question and don't listen to what anyone has to say til your jeep falls apart. Go ahead
dude you need longer control arms on the front or your whole entire fking axle will be too far back. Your springs will be bent backwards and your dd is gonna ride like **** and putting that stress from bumps n sht on your axle is going to tear everything else apart. But, your dad has a fab shop, so post a question and don't listen to what anyone has to say til your jeep falls apart. Go ahead



and yes
I'm an old guy
anything else?