3" lift and 35's pictures
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
3" lift and 35's pictures
specifically looking for wheel size and backspace information.
flex shots in addition to trim shots would be helpful as well.
I currently run 33x10.50's on the stock steel wheels at 2.5" and have that all figured out, but am contemplating going to 35's. Knowing that the 35's are taller and wider makes me wonder about how much more trimming I'll need to do, and if I'll need to get into welding at the rear fenders.
As for wheels, looking to keep them as tight to the vehicle as safely possible... thinking 8" with 4.5" backspacing.
And yes, I have searched, and have not found the info. I am looking for.
And yes, I'm regeared and axle'd.
flex shots in addition to trim shots would be helpful as well.
I currently run 33x10.50's on the stock steel wheels at 2.5" and have that all figured out, but am contemplating going to 35's. Knowing that the 35's are taller and wider makes me wonder about how much more trimming I'll need to do, and if I'll need to get into welding at the rear fenders.
As for wheels, looking to keep them as tight to the vehicle as safely possible... thinking 8" with 4.5" backspacing.
And yes, I have searched, and have not found the info. I am looking for.
And yes, I'm regeared and axle'd.
Last edited by Mike H.; 04-23-2014 at 03:12 PM.
#3
I can take a pic, but I've already got the front axle and suspension out of it. Trying to lower it some, going to longarms, and swapping full width axles under it.
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Mine don't rub at all. 3" lift, 35x12.5 KM2s, 15x8's with 3.75" backspacing, bumpstopped, and cut and fold the fenders.
I can take a pic, but I've already got the front axle and suspension out of it. Trying to lower it some, going to longarms, and swapping full width axles under it.
I can take a pic, but I've already got the front axle and suspension out of it. Trying to lower it some, going to longarms, and swapping full width axles under it.
#5
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fenders aren't do much a problem as you said they can be trimmed. At full stuff my 35s rub the crap out of my spring towers. And yes turning full lock can be a pain but if you're going long arms you might be able to get the clearance needed depending on the set up. I don't think you'll have much room for up travel do hopefully you get good droop.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I'm running 4" of lift on 35's with my fenders trimmed pretty high. I have 15x8" wheels with 3.75" of backspacing and Long arms. At full turn i would rub just a hair on the arms and my chromo joints too. I added a washer for each steering stop and the only place i rub now is on the front inner fender under the airbox and battery locations. i have 12" travel shocks up front and use all of them with 3 up and the rest down.
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#8
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Year: 1997
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Engine: I6ho
Thanks, it's looking like 3.75" BS is the way to go.
Running 33x10.50's on the stock steel wheels I've already adjusted the steering stops a fair bit... rather a lot actually.
If 4" lift allows 3" uptravel... and I'm at 2.5" lift... leaves 1.5" uptravel... hmmm maybe it's time for new coils and a longer shackle. Shocks are 11", and I get nearly all of 'em in droop.
Please feel free to post more photos.
Think it's time I pm KTM
Running 33x10.50's on the stock steel wheels I've already adjusted the steering stops a fair bit... rather a lot actually.
If 4" lift allows 3" uptravel... and I'm at 2.5" lift... leaves 1.5" uptravel... hmmm maybe it's time for new coils and a longer shackle. Shocks are 11", and I get nearly all of 'em in droop.
Please feel free to post more photos.
Think it's time I pm KTM
#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6l
flexing
this is @ 3in maybe 3.5in, 35x12.50 on 15x7 and i think 3.75in bs
i had a 33x12.50 on a stock wheel for a spare before i got the 35s and it would rub the leaf spring in the back, so think the 3.75 bs is the way to go, the 35s didnt rub as bad as i thought in the front basically the same as what every one is saying, LCAs, inerfender pinch weld, and fenders.... if theres a will and a sawsall there is a way i still have to get around to the fenders and bumpstops
#10
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Jesse,
That second picture is the exact one I was looking for!
Thanks.
I have a little more trimming to do on the lower half of the wheel wells.
This is the rig as it sits, and the clearance at the rear with 33x10.50's
That second picture is the exact one I was looking for!
Thanks.
I have a little more trimming to do on the lower half of the wheel wells.
This is the rig as it sits, and the clearance at the rear with 33x10.50's
#11
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Year: 1988
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as you can see on the back i had to get into the inerfender but i think if you droped the bunpstops a bit you could keep the cut and fold method like you have, i think im going to cut the inerfender out and cap off the inside of the truck area when i chop the top
glad i could help, nice rig you got too
glad i could help, nice rig you got too
#12
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Year: 2000
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Hey MikeH, is that how my sport should look with a 4" IRO lift and 33x10.5? Same color jeep I got too! Any other pics you could share? Looks perfect for what I'm shooting for! Maybe 35's with alot of trimming.....hmmmmm
#13
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Year: 1997
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Engine: I6ho
When I measure from the spring perch to the "frame" rail and do the math, my rig sits at 2.5"-3". Kinda hard to read a tape under there.
Pictures, under my user name click on my photos, I have several albums.
Pictures, under my user name click on my photos, I have several albums.
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