Trust me, I know. As a 19 year old in college it was hard to get rides while my jeep was in the garage for 3 days.

 

You don't need to unbolt the the leaf from the shackle. Keep the leaf pack on the jeep, and disconnect the axel from the packs via the ubolts. Then bend the leaf pack clamps off with a big flat head. Then unbolt the center pin (no need for c-clamps as there is no tension on the leaf's). Slide the new leaf in and get all the leaf's back in place with a long thin screw driver in through the center pin hole to line them up. Place c-clamps on both sides of the center pin hole and tighten evenly at the same time (this step took 4 of us, 2 holding the leafs, and 2 turning the c-clamps evenly), if you don't tighten the c-clamps evenly, the leafs can "explode" apart which is dangerous. That a lot of potential energy in there. Once the leafs are tight together again, slide the center pin through the hole (easier said then done) and tighten the nut on it. Do not attempt to compress the leafs with the center pin. Us the c-clamps, and only install the center pin when the c-clamps are holding all the leafs tight together. Then install the new leaf clamps. Repeat for other side and reconnect the axel.

 

Damn..it almost sounds easier and safer to take the hole pack out and do it on a work bench.

 

Then do it.

What is easy for you may not be easy for others. And the other way around.

Sometimes you gotta do what works best for you!

 

Agreed. You can do it which ever way is easier for you. You will definitely need a friend either way you do it though.

 

I think my dad is gonna come give me a hand, I have to work labor day...which is bull****..or I would start then, ill prolly end up starting tomorrow when I get off work

 

Extremely discourage/mad now...Got home from work with high expectations on getting some work done on the front. No impact tools so It was a PITA to remove my tires. Here is my first problem. When I went to jack the front end up from the pumpkin on the axle, my front drivers side tire would come off the ground about 3 inches and then the lift wouldnt build up any more pressure to go higher, the other front tire wasnt even off the ground...2nd I just got pissed and left the drivers side jacked up and supported the frame directlly behind the control arm with a jack stand, slowly lowered my jack and extended the suspension all the way...Now I have absolutly no way of getting to the top shock mount because it is directly under the master cylinder! I know that there has to be a way to jack up both side simultaneously and then support the unibody with stands and just drop both sides at once...but do I need to support the axle? So here are my ?s so far...Is my jack ****ed up or am I doing something wrong? Where should I jack the jeep up to get both sides off the ground. 2nd..how the hell do I get to that upper shock mount? The passenger side is a damn breeze to get to..please help guys...im either gonna cry or im gonna kill someone..haha

 

jsut use some blocks of wood or a brick to go under the jack to get it high enough to get the stands under. To get that shock mount, just a combo of a box wrench and vice grips to get that shock out . I see some people use a nut splitter to just split that nut out of there.

 

There has to be a more practical way to get to it...vice grips would work but how would you get the new one torqed down? Also do I need to support the axle after I get the jack stands under the frame?

 

same way just reversed lol. I mean once clamped the nut will just spin down and just make it tight... doesnt have to be power of thor tight. I used a 8 dollar 4 ton bottle jack from harbor freight to go under the axle when I did my front end to help support

 

I'll toy with it tomorrow...since the diff is offset how should I lift the passenger side?

 

that shock bolt on the driver side will be easier than you think. I cracked mine loose today with a 15mm wrench, barely any force on it. and once it was loose the nut spun by hand all the way off. there is more room down there than you think to get a wrench in there.

 

Just place the jack in the middle of the axel, it does not need to be under the pumpkin. And yes, keep the jack under the axel so that the brake lines don't get over extended. Use the jack to raise and lower the axel to suit your needs.

For the upper front shock mounts, you can just use a small wrench on the nut and hold the top of the shock stem with vice grips. Do the reverse to install. If your worried about torque-ing them down for the install, I think the specs on those are only 20 ft/lbs, which is easily done by hand without the need of a torque wrench.

A word of advice, slow down, take a breath, and relax. If you try to rush and get frustrated you will hate every moment of your lift. Slow down and enjoy it. My instructions said the average install time was 5-6 hours... I had 20 hours wrapped up in mine (now I was moving really slow, and like 5 of those hours where in the upper shock bolts alone). Just keep posting questions, and we'll keep answering. You'll get it done.

 

I love you guys haha

 

Good advice here. I am in the middle of a lift myself. It has NOT been fun in the least bit. I started a week ago friday and get to work on it here and there. Put in 3 hours the first day, 3 the second, about 4 on sunday... several during the week, and 6 hours today. I still have a good 3-4 hours I would say left. Everything that has gone wrong did, seized bolts, broken shock bolts, stitches in my hand.. etc etc. I would say i have about 20 hours or so at least in it, BUT i have been doing it all on my own, no help. Believe me if you can have someone help you you will be better off, at least for mental support, lol.