3.5 rubicon lift noises
06-07-2012, 10:37 PM
#1
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3.5 rubicon lift noises
Hey guys, I got the 3.5 Rubicon super-ride lift on my 4 door 98 4x4 Cherokee.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
06-07-2012, 10:49 PM
#2
Hey guys, I got the 3.5 Rubicon super-ride lift on my 4 door 98 4x4 Cherokee.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
you cant just put a front ds in and lower the tcase. to use a front ds you will need to do either a hnt or sye. the the price of an sye its not that much more $ to get as to a hnt.
hnt cost is around $100 plus a used ds from your jy ontop of that.
sye cost is usually around $200ish plus cost of front ds at your jy.
sye is stronger than hnt, for install all you have to do is open up your tcase. should only take a few hours for install no delays.
hnt install you dont need to open up your tcase, just take the rear ds out and shorter your rear output shaft. can install a hnt in about 30min. for a hnt just make sure you feel comfortable drilling dead center into your output shaft. if you are off a little bit then will get some vibs from it.
hope this answers your quesitons.
06-07-2012, 11:03 PM
#3
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Some people get away with a transfer case drop and angle shims under the rear springs, but yeah replacing the stock drive shaft is the "right" way to go.
A Slip Yoke Eliminator comes in two types. Hack-'N-Tap is where you cut the existing output shaft down and bolt on a U-joint yoke to grab a double-cardan drive shaft. Rarely hear of these breaking. The better kind involves replacing the main shaft of your transfercase with one that is prepared with a new yoke. The front drive shaft you need to get depends on your transmission, lift, rear axle, and how you did the SYE. A HNT on an automatic with the C8.25 will need a shorter DS than a manual with a short-shaft SYE kit with a D35 in the rear.
A Slip Yoke Eliminator comes in two types. Hack-'N-Tap is where you cut the existing output shaft down and bolt on a U-joint yoke to grab a double-cardan drive shaft. Rarely hear of these breaking. The better kind involves replacing the main shaft of your transfercase with one that is prepared with a new yoke. The front drive shaft you need to get depends on your transmission, lift, rear axle, and how you did the SYE. A HNT on an automatic with the C8.25 will need a shorter DS than a manual with a short-shaft SYE kit with a D35 in the rear.
06-08-2012, 01:28 AM
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I have a 3.5 lift and get a knocking noise from the rear exhaust hanger smacking my leafs. Not sure if you have the same thing. I had the Drop Kit on mine and took it off because I couldnt shift into 4 low. I did however get the slip joint eliminator kit and i will see how that works tommorow.
Also, not that i have any experience with the hack n tap versions but they just seem hokey, cheaper but hokey. I got mine for $270 plus a $350 drive shaft.
Also, not that i have any experience with the hack n tap versions but they just seem hokey, cheaper but hokey. I got mine for $270 plus a $350 drive shaft.
06-08-2012, 02:05 AM
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I have a 3.5 lift and get a knocking noise from the rear exhaust hanger smacking my leafs. Not sure if you have the same thing. I had the Drop Kit on mine and took it off because I couldnt shift into 4 low. I did however get the slip joint eliminator kit and i will see how that works tommorow.
Also, not that i have any experience with the hack n tap versions but they just seem hokey, cheaper but hokey. I got mine for $270 plus a $350 drive shaft.
Also, not that i have any experience with the hack n tap versions but they just seem hokey, cheaper but hokey. I got mine for $270 plus a $350 drive shaft.
06-08-2012, 07:48 AM
#7
Hey guys, I got the 3.5 Rubicon super-ride lift on my 4 door 98 4x4 Cherokee.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Your t-case should not move at all when you try to move your drive shaft.
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06-08-2012, 10:03 AM
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Under the case, thier is a frame beam and above that I take it is where the botom of the case rested before because their is a black spacer looking thing about 10x10 that now is raised about an inch or 2 above the frame beam. Looks like it was ripped off of it.
06-08-2012, 10:23 AM
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When I shake up and down on the drive shaft close to the transfer case the shaft is loose and the case moves.
Under the case, thier is a frame beam and above that I take it is where the botom of the case rested before because their is a black spacer looking thing about 10x10 that now is raised about an inch or 2 above the frame beam. Looks like it was ripped off of it.
Under the case, thier is a frame beam and above that I take it is where the botom of the case rested before because their is a black spacer looking thing about 10x10 that now is raised about an inch or 2 above the frame beam. Looks like it was ripped off of it.
The slip yoke eliminator I bought was from 4 wheel parts, the drive shaft is from Drive Line Service. Mind you I installed all of this so if you want it installed its gonna cost you twice that (unless you know somebody).
The beam you talk about is rear support/cross member and yes it has the transmission support on it "Black Spacer" as well as a rubber/metal transmission mount. Not sure if all Cherokees used the same method for mounting/supporting but mine had a 3/8 thick plate mounted to the transmission then off of that the transmission (rubber/metal) mount which in turn mounts to the rear cross member.
As far as the T-Case moving up and down, that is not good in any sense. If the shaft is moving then you have some internal issues. There is a minor amount of play in the shaft in and out but not up and down. If its just the case the mount can be replaced.
06-08-2012, 11:57 AM
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Year: 1998
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Hey guys, I got the 3.5 Rubicon super-ride lift on my 4 door 98 4x4 Cherokee.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Got some vibration rattle type feeling while accelerating. Also when I feather on or off the gas very lightly or not you can kinda feel and hear a bump knock sound as well.
When the back comes down off a speed bump, on the way up you also feel and hear a small thud.
When I shake the rear drive shaft up and down it moves along a tad with the transfer case.
A buddy believes this is all from that drive shaft and to lower the case will do it up.
Ive read broader routes to take as well, feel free to pour them in, cost would be nice too.
Im only runnin 30s by the way.
Drop the TC - lousy long term
Install a SYE - expensive
Shim the rear axle - cheap and works
BTW, these are not mutually exclusive...
06-09-2012, 08:29 PM
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my buddy thinks they hooked me up with stock size shocks, I believe they gave me the 3000s pro comp shocks.
they are 11 and a half inches in the body.
Wonder if this is why Im feeling such a hit in the rear at bumps, small bumps even, its ridiculous.
they are 11 and a half inches in the body.
Wonder if this is why Im feeling such a hit in the rear at bumps, small bumps even, its ridiculous.
06-09-2012, 10:24 PM
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I just measured my pro comp shock and they are 11" as well
06-09-2012, 11:53 PM
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Im not sure that sounds right. The reason for the longer shocks is for travel reasons. On a short travel you shouldnt feel any kind of thud from the shock. If the shock is bottoming out then maybe the shock is bad?
I just measured my pro comp shock and they are 11" as well
I just measured my pro comp shock and they are 11" as well
06-10-2012, 12:05 AM
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