Bugout4x4

Still trying to figure out how to rewire a leaf blower to 12 volt DC... lol

CobraMarty

You have to watch and be careful about future problems.
Clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, low voltage to fuel pump, leaky or out of adjustment fuel pressure regulator, clogged fuel injectors, bad fuel can all cause problems.

Even stock Jeeps build in lots of reserve to account for these future problems. The stock fuel pump is good for 190hp stock. This takes into account and makes it safe even at 50% output. This 50% over-engineering is why jeeps last so long.

My point is everything must work together and effects each other.
If you need 180 pounds of fuel per hour to use 6x30lb/hr injectors, which fuel pump do you need?

There are lots of compromises. You have to start with how much power do you want to make? How much fuel will that require? Will my fuel pump support that much fuel? Is my fuel line big enough for the amount of fuel needed? How much boost will my head gasket take? How much power will my drivetrain take? Dana 30 front axle. How much power will my transfer case take? How much extra heat will all this power produce and can my cooling system keep up? Am I in open of closed loop. What is my AFRs? What is the AFR needed for best HP? best TQ?


FUEL PUMPS

-All at 12v, if old wire, poor battery or alternator, actual voltage and fuel pump output may be lower
-LPH = GPH x 3.785, 1 Gallon Gas = 6.5lbs

-?stock 110LPH = 29GPH at free flow, 23GPH at 50psi =150 lbs/hr
Max HP- N/A .50BSFC = 300HP, Boost .55BSFC = 275HP (50%safety-190HP)

-?stock 130LPH Walbro GCA733 = 27GPH at 50psi = 175 lbs/hr
Max HP- N/A .5SFC = 350HP, Boost 0.55BSFC = 315HP (50% safety-210HP)

-upgrade 190LPH = 50GPH at free flow, 42GPH at 43.5psi, 36-38GPH at 50psi = 234-247lbs/hr
Max HP- N/A .50BSFC = 475-500HP, Boost .55BSFC = 425-450HP (50% safety- 285HP)

-upgrade 255LPH Walbro = 67GPH at Free flow, 53GPH at 43.5psi, 47-55GPH at 50psi = 305-357lbs/hr
Max HP- N/A .50BSFC = 650-710HP, Boost .55BSFC = 590-650HP (50% safety- 400HP)

CobraMarty

It's not simple, but it's not Rocket Surgery either.

Bugout4x4

For you guys! Pretty sure we have gone into great detail about Turbos on other threads here. I learned a lot and still do. Thank you...

Cummins93

This is why an in cabin boost and AFR gauge is a requirement. A knock sensor is also a great idea. You see your AFR start to lean you lift the right foot.

houstonchapman1

Well I have a walbro 225 lph fuel pump, just not hooked up, I was thinking of 36lb injectors, I dont think I would need more than that, not trying to drag race! I'm thinking an H1C Holset, CT26 from a supra, or an HX35. i think the HX35 is a little large though, 36lb injectors and a walbro 225lph pump, and either an MSD boost timing controller or an AEM FIC. So that I can retard or adv. Timing, I need some colder plugs as well. I have a wideband and Fuel pressure gauge as well as a digital oil pressure and temp gauge. I have a boost gauge as well, I am looking at this digital OBD 2 sensor for the knock and intake temps etc. This is not an instant thing, I have a lot of stuff but I came on here to get more information, I have done a lot of turbos on 4 bangers, but most of them already had write ups. I would like to have Meth/water injection as well to reduce intake temps as well as detonation. Its a project for sure but Im learning a lot and what do you guys think of the Split Second tuner, the ftc-202?

CobraMarty

So 36lb/hr injectors, 190LPH fuel pump, 8pounds boost, 300HP, Done. Well not quite done, but a good start and realistic goal.

The SS FTC1 202 will work well. It will control the fuel and the boost timing retard.
Problem is that on your '01 it will not go immediately into open loop at 0 vacuum. It will delay up to 8 seconds before going into open loop. During this 8 seconds while in boost and adding extra fuel, the closed loop ecu and O2 sensors will read rich and cut back the fuel and you will go lean and surge and run well until out of boost.

Now if you sold the '01 and bought a '98 or '99 XJ, These ecu's go immediately into open loop at 0 vacuum and then you can add the extra fuel needed during boost.

'00 and '01 are very difficult to get to go into open loop.

Bugout4x4

The difference is that you guys have moved from regular Mekaniks into the detailed science here.

Cummins93

Does the 00 and 01 still hold closed loop at 0 vac at >80% tps?

CobraMarty

Does the 00 and 01 still hold closed loop at 0 vac at >80% tps?

Unfortunately yes. For about 8-10 seconds.

Cummins93

Did you come to this conclusion by watching a scan gauge or do you have someone that has seen the wot algorithm?

CobraMarty

A little of all three- watch the scan gauge, watch AFR, drivability at transition and in boost and knowing what to change, especially in the later year ecu, to get the ecu to go into open loop at 0 vacuum.

Cummins93

In almost every situation I've come across wot open loop is a combination of engine temp, rpm, tps%, map and how quickly these changes happen. So a snap open of the throttle will cause open loop but a gradual open will not, even though the end tps, map and rpm are the same. I can't say i've come across a time set open loop parameter yet. The wife recently aquired a 00 I'm sure she won't mind me romping it down some highway for science.

Cummins93

4L engine at 85%VE 5000rpm red line at 10, 15, and 20 psi out of a gt35. Someone double check my stuff.

Cummins93

And the s20g map as well.