Another instance when I wish I had an older xj for the sake of commonality.

So I was trying to find a comp cam but I guess they don't fit 98+

I'm trying to find a cam now that is equivalent or close to the comp, cuz they have hood reviews

Any ideas, builds, links?

Thanks

 

Oh and it probably doesn't matter but I'm going to aim for a new exhaust man @ the same time

I have bored throttle body and flowmaster too

 

get a set of 1.7 ratio rocker arms, aftermarket cams dont get along too well with the computer controlled engine

 

Thanks, what am I looking for fit-wise with those. They pop up on summit racing but say they are for 5L+

Sorry I'm a learn as I go kind of "mechanic" and this is getting into the area of where it just easier to ask questions on top of research

 

Or like this link that for a 4.2L kit that is way cheaper but does not mention ratio

 

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rocker-...-3242393k.html

 

They dont say but im going to assume they are stock ratio and just a oem replacement. Try to find something roller tip, somebody will chime in if im wrong (hopefully) but i think you need rockers for a small block chevy

 

the 98 and older cams will fit the 2000 and newer blocks. you just have to get a 98 and older cam bolt, washer, spring and pin for the cam. the 2000 + use a camshaft retainer plate to hold the cam in place, while the 98 and older cams use the spring/pin style. You can take off the plate and run the older style with the cam in the newer block. Its done pretty often.

parts required
-Cam
-washer
-pin,bolt,spring

also most cams with more lift require upgraded valve springs to limit/eliminate valve floating at higher rpm. I would recommend mopar performance springs/retainers/keepers, as they don't require cutting the head or changing the rockers. (what i used)

good cam info

I have the COMP 68-232-4 4X4 cam (made for newer efi engines) It idles smooth at 700-800 rpm, runs smooth. IDK on cam performance gains alone as I put it in with my stroker, but it feels great! lol

Not always true.... EFI engines just have a more strict Duration and lift requirements. Companies make cams for EFI/computer controlled vehicles all the time. almost every engine can have a more aggressive cams and run fine. you just have to make sure the cam was made for your application.

 

Look at Yella Terra 1.7 ratio roller rockers. They fit under a stock valve cover, can be used with stock springs and work well with stock ECU. Will really wake up the stock engine. 2 hour easy install.

 

Awesome, this is some good info. Its hard when anything having to do with working on your rig and the election are competing for your attention

 

So gorilla, along with that cam, are the other parts you recommended to me what you used?

 

Not to thread jack but i heard somewhere around '95 or '96 they switched cams from a single to a dual plane or something like that. Would it be worth it as an upgrade to possible use a cam from say a '98 for an older model HO 4.0? And yes i heard alot about those yello terra 1.7 rockers

 

Subscribed... some interesting info. Keep it coming!

 

For my cam (comp cam listed above) I used the Mopar double springs, retainers and keepers to keep the valve train together at higher RPM. Stock valve springs are softer due to the less lift and duration of a stock cam. with more lift and duration you need a stiffer/harder spring to bring the valve back to seated position before the piston hits TDC (top dead center) or the valve will hit the piston ending your happy day

the mopar performance springs ect are cheaper then a lot of aftermarket stuff as well.

So I would recommend changing those with the cam... other then that, While you have the T/chain off to change the cam its cheap insurance to replace it too. if the head is off for lifters might as well buy the Mopar performance head gasket (metal/thinner) to boost compression slightly as well. its pretty cheap for OEM parts.

the 1.7 rockers will change total lift as well. Not as much as a performance cam, which changes more then lift, it changes cam timing to give you a higher DCR (dynamic compression ratio) actual used volume of air when ignited, to give more power, but valve lift (depth valve is pushed open) and duration (how long the valve is left open) to give a more densely packed cylinder (more air=more power)

however its more expensive to do a cam, both will ad power. reading up on peoples thoughts and relating it to your use is what is important, as whats ideal for me may not be for you...

 

I am not sure on the year but you are correct, I have read this as well, In my Honest opinion, its a worthy swap, but only if you have it torn down already. its no performance cam, but it does add power. its a great stroker cam. Lots of people with strokers run a factory cam. as the stock cam is a nicely balanced cam for MPG/power.

but $$ to $$ I would buy a performance cam over a factory model. Mopar actually makes factory performance cams you can order...

No matter the choice in cam its always important to improve the breathing before and after the cam, intake/Exh, header, CAI, bigger throttle body, 99+ manifold ect. without the other improvements the cam wont be able to show its true potential.