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1997 Cherokee APN Header Hits Intake

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Default 1997 Cherokee APN Header Hits Intake

Hi all - read these forums quite a bit, but finally ran into a problem I can't seem to find the answer to. I just installed a new APN header on my '97 cherokee. It was a really tight fit and took a lot of work to get the intake and header to fit together. After a lot of wiggling, I finally got the dang things to go on, but the intake is touching the header on the first and last tubes. This doesn't seem like a good thing...? I dont think the stock header touched the intake at all. Is it ok to leave it like this? Should I pull it apart and grind the intake or dent the the header tubes?

On a side note - I busted the rear header stud....ugh. It's going to be very hard to get a drill back there. Am I ok running without the rear stud?

Thanks!
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:02 PM
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Also, for the broken stud...if I'm able to get a short bolt to thread in there, will that be sufficient?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Can you weld a nut to the broken stud?

Some folks grind the intake, I "fixed" the header with a hammer. A few light strikes is all it takes.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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Thanks for the reply David - the stud is broke off inside the head... I was thinking there might be enough thread to put a short bolt in there. Otherwise I might try a right angle drill...but still going to be hard to get at.

So I'm guessing its not a good idea to leave the intake and header pressed against each other?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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Well, I took everything apart again and used a combination of hammer to the header and grinder to the intake. I think there is plenty of clearance now. I'm wishing I didn't use permatex copper spray on the gasket...that stuff works too well! It's going to take some time to get this stuff off the head....

I sure wish APN didn't market this header as a bolt-on. If a hammer and/or grinder is required....it's not bolt-on.

I'm going to go ahead and try using a right angle drill to get the busted stud out....
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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you need to get something on that stud. and i had to beat the **** out of my header to get it to fit with the 99 intake on my 98, but didnt have to touch a thing with the same combo on my 93.

effing jeeps man.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 09:54 PM
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Mine went on the 98 just fine. No hammer required.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by slyrzmb
Thanks for the reply David - the stud is broke off inside the head... I was thinking there might be enough thread to put a short bolt in there. Otherwise I might try a right angle drill...but still going to be hard to get at.

So I'm guessing its not a good idea to leave the intake and header pressed against each other?
Go buy a left handed drill bit.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Go buy a left handed drill bit.
Are left handed drill bits better than the easy outs?
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 03:55 PM
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Yes. Many times the left handed bit will grab the piece and wind it roght out!!

Drilling right handed tightens the fastener in, and an easy out spreads it out making it more difficult to remove.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Yes. Many times the left handed bit will grab the piece and wind it roght out!!

Drilling right handed tightens the fastener in, and an easy out spreads it out making it more difficult to remove.
Thanks for the pointers curiser!! I will give it a shot after work today.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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Well I picked up some left hand drill bits from AutoZone after work yesterday...and successfully burned them all up and barely made a scratch on the stud. I overnighted some cobalt bits from Amazon. Hopefully these will work better...
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 09:04 PM
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Success! I got the broken stud out. I used left hand turn cobalt bits. It was the rear stud, so it was pretty hard to get at with little room to work. The stud didnt come out with the left turn bits, but it probably would have if I could have drilled straight on. The drilling got a little sloppy because of where the stud is located. Anyway, thank you all for the recommendations. And I HIGHLY recommend cobalt bits for drilling hardened metal!
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