1996 xj 2wd to 4wd conversion
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
1996 xj 2wd to 4wd conversion
I have a 96 xj country 2wd, 6.5 in rough country lift, 2 in shackles in rear, 2 in spacers up front, upgraded steering stabilizer, sitting on 35's.
I know your thinking, "why did you lift a 2wd xj?" Well i never intended to go that far, but the more you do to modify, the more you want to KEEP modifying and upgrading. Plus, it looked awesome and 4x4 isn't really needed that much. Anyway..
My question is: how difficult would it be to convert to 4wd? Just swap out the front axle with another 4x4 xj? Extended driveshaft? Slip yoke elim? cut out for a lever?
I'm not a mechanic but i'd love to give it a try with some help.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated. Or step by step instructions if anyone has ever tried a conversion.-
I know your thinking, "why did you lift a 2wd xj?" Well i never intended to go that far, but the more you do to modify, the more you want to KEEP modifying and upgrading. Plus, it looked awesome and 4x4 isn't really needed that much. Anyway..
My question is: how difficult would it be to convert to 4wd? Just swap out the front axle with another 4x4 xj? Extended driveshaft? Slip yoke elim? cut out for a lever?
I'm not a mechanic but i'd love to give it a try with some help.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated. Or step by step instructions if anyone has ever tried a conversion.-
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Trans,transfer case,front and rear driveshafts and 4wd axle. And cut a hole for the transfer case shifter and I would go with a hp 30 if your not upgrading to a bigger axle and swap a Chrysler 8.25 to the rear while your at it especially with those 35s
Last edited by prosace95; 02-28-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In your case you need to buy a complete XJ either wrecked or one with a blown engine so you can all the required parts to do the swap. There are quite a few small items that people forget about doing a complete swap like that. That and the fact of having some spare parts around never hurts either.
For the rear differential at the least you should use is a Chy 8.25 with 29 spline axles and even then you must go easy on the skinny peddle for sure and pick your line. Its maxed out with the 35's I know I run them off road on some trails myself with that differential.
You will need a gear swap for sure running 35" tires or should have all ready and do some fender trimming for sure to get max flex off road. While doing the gears to a 4.88's it would be cheaper to do the lockers at the same time as labor required is the same.
Plan what your costs will be to do the swap carefully, then double it usually comes out about right lol.
For the rear differential at the least you should use is a Chy 8.25 with 29 spline axles and even then you must go easy on the skinny peddle for sure and pick your line. Its maxed out with the 35's I know I run them off road on some trails myself with that differential.
You will need a gear swap for sure running 35" tires or should have all ready and do some fender trimming for sure to get max flex off road. While doing the gears to a 4.88's it would be cheaper to do the lockers at the same time as labor required is the same.
Plan what your costs will be to do the swap carefully, then double it usually comes out about right lol.
#5
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
I appreciate all the help. I was running 36' swampers on it for a long time, which i felt were a lot of weight on the axles to begin with. The gears in the rear are 4.56 right now.
With me having the stock axles, could that be effecting the tie rods and bearings up front? I have still get the "wobble" every now and again even after replacing the rods and bearings, plus new shocks up front.
Would I be better off with Dana 44's?
With me having the stock axles, could that be effecting the tie rods and bearings up front? I have still get the "wobble" every now and again even after replacing the rods and bearings, plus new shocks up front.
Would I be better off with Dana 44's?
#6
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Everything is a direct bolt on swap, including the t case shifter. The factory put a hole there. All you need to do is remove the cover plate.
Last edited by Big David; 02-29-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Still your best bet is another XJ to use and depending on what rear differential you now have if you need another one of those if a D35 trash it, a Chy 8.25 a full case locker and add 29 spline axles will work. The D30 in the front you want a 99 and down model a HP one had worked for me and both would be a direct bolt-in.
The rest like David said is a simple swap if you have all the parts. I would suggest an aftermarket TC shift linkage like a Boostworks one for sure.
The rest like David said is a simple swap if you have all the parts. I would suggest an aftermarket TC shift linkage like a Boostworks one for sure.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Don't even do 4WD! Keep it 2WD and stick a locker in the back! That's what I'll be doing - we can be 2wd buddies.
2wd + 2wd = 4wd, right?
2wd + 2wd = 4wd, right?
#9
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Year: 1996
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Engine: I6 4.0L High Output
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