1.5" OME lift Quandry...
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 812
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From: Kansas City, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey guys! first off, thanks for the quick responses.
I want to keep stock appearance, mileage(fingers crossed) and be able to do exactly what that video showed! i live around vail colorado so there is an insane ammount of improved 4x4 roads however, if i half *** this build and get stuck i'm gonna be there for a minute... the price to ensure that is worth it to me i just dont want to overspend for the hell of it.
so i'm pretty set on my 1.5 lift and the bumpers. i wanna run the stock size all terrains i have now into the ground. 3" is gonna be too much
I want to keep stock appearance, mileage(fingers crossed) and be able to do exactly what that video showed! i live around vail colorado so there is an insane ammount of improved 4x4 roads however, if i half *** this build and get stuck i'm gonna be there for a minute... the price to ensure that is worth it to me i just dont want to overspend for the hell of it.
so i'm pretty set on my 1.5 lift and the bumpers. i wanna run the stock size all terrains i have now into the ground. 3" is gonna be too much
If I were doing a 2" lift, I'd do 2" OME leaf springs and 2" Rusty's coils. White body shocks will probably be fine for you, they're all about the same. If you're **** about doing things right (like me) I recommend an adjustable trackbar, the RE 1600 is about the best deal on one. Your front brake lines will be fine if you move them down, but I'd get a longer rear line, just order one for a 1995 wrangler, it'll be perfect for you. Don't forget a new set of u-bolts and you're golden.
As for sway bar links, depends on if you're going to be doing serious flexing, if so, probably get yourself some decent extended disconnects, JKS probably.
Regarding the OME leafs, if you aren't going to be weighting the back down with bumpers and a bunch of heavy gear (tire carrier, roof rack, spare axles) then go light duty. The medium duty springs will sit at 3" unless you put a bunch of weight in the back.
Let us know what you decide or if you got more questions.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
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From: bradenton, fl
Year: 1987
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
You might bump that up to 2" to make life a lot easier on you parts wise, then run a 235/75r15. Its just a hair bigger than stock and will look very natural with that lift.
If I were doing a 2" lift, I'd do 2" OME leaf springs and 2" Rusty's coils. White body shocks will probably be fine for you, they're all about the same. If you're **** about doing things right (like me) I recommend an adjustable trackbar, the RE 1600 is about the best deal on one. Your front brake lines will be fine if you move them down, but I'd get a longer rear line, just order one for a 1995 wrangler, it'll be perfect for you. Don't forget a new set of u-bolts and you're golden.
As for sway bar links, depends on if you're going to be doing serious flexing, if so, probably get yourself some decent extended disconnects, JKS probably.
Regarding the OME leafs, if you aren't going to be weighting the back down with bumpers and a bunch of heavy gear (tire carrier, roof rack, spare axles) then go light duty. The medium duty springs will sit at 3" unless you put a bunch of weight in the back.
Let us know what you decide or if you got more questions.
If I were doing a 2" lift, I'd do 2" OME leaf springs and 2" Rusty's coils. White body shocks will probably be fine for you, they're all about the same. If you're **** about doing things right (like me) I recommend an adjustable trackbar, the RE 1600 is about the best deal on one. Your front brake lines will be fine if you move them down, but I'd get a longer rear line, just order one for a 1995 wrangler, it'll be perfect for you. Don't forget a new set of u-bolts and you're golden.
As for sway bar links, depends on if you're going to be doing serious flexing, if so, probably get yourself some decent extended disconnects, JKS probably.
Regarding the OME leafs, if you aren't going to be weighting the back down with bumpers and a bunch of heavy gear (tire carrier, roof rack, spare axles) then go light duty. The medium duty springs will sit at 3" unless you put a bunch of weight in the back.
Let us know what you decide or if you got more questions.
A few comments on the above quote: There's no comparison between the OME shocks and the white body units. If you can afford the OME's get them. Do some reading on them and they are about the best you can put on an XJ if you want ride quality.
A track bar could be helpful, but at that low of a lift height, it is by no means necessary. On mine I have a little less than 1/4" shift in my axle sitting at 2" of lift.
Front brake lines are fine as-is as long as you aren't putting after market control arms on. You don't need aftermarket control arms with this low of a lift since the pinion angle is changed only minimally, and the stockers keep the axle from dropping far enough to be a problem with the brake lines. I have had no problem with the rear brake line either on my setup as the axle can't drop far enough (shocks will fully extend) to overextend the brake line. I've had the rear jacked up with the axle hanging to re-gear it and there was plenty of room for the brake line.
Disconnects are awesome for really rough road. I have the JKS ones. One thing I would mention though is that with only 2" or less of lift, go with the disconnects for a stock vehicle. I had the next size larger as that's what they suggested when I told them what I was doing, and they ended up punching holes in my fender wells when the suspension would bottom out. I would be running trails like shown in the video and the front would bottom out and the bolts that hold the disconnects to the sway bar would contact the fender well. I had JKS send me the stock size and they work perfect. I say they are awesome because you can disconnect them and allow the front wheels to absorb the impacts independently instead of trying to transfer energy to the other side and roll the body. I notice a big difference in ride quality when I running rough trails with the sway bar connected or disconnected.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 812
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From: Kansas City, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OP: My recommendation would be to go with the OME shocks and springs for the 2" lift. With the weight of the bumpers it will bring it down to about 1-1.5". On my rig (the video) I've got OME springs and shocks all the way around. They are designed to compliment each other, substituting the springs or shocks for a cheaper alternative will yield diminished ride results. For mine I've got the standard front springs since I don't have a heavy bumper and no plans for one, and I have the HD rear leafs. One thing to keep in mind is that the HD leafs are dual rate, they have four(?) main leafs and the the overload leaf that doesn't do anything until the pack is compressed a given distance. The standard part of the pack is actually a lighter spring rate than even the "light duty" springs. I picked it because I wanted the softest possible ride and the ability to tow trailers or load the rig down with camping gear etc. I also have the standard length shocks. Depending on how heavy of a bumper you're looking at putting on you might consider the medium duty springs. I'm not sure where the 3" figure comes from as the ones I've seen have been 2" but I know there are different versions of the springs too, so that might be it.
A few comments on the above quote: There's no comparison between the OME shocks and the white body units. If you can afford the OME's get them. Do some reading on them and they are about the best you can put on an XJ if you want ride quality.
A track bar could be helpful, but at that low of a lift height, it is by no means necessary. On mine I have a little less than 1/4" shift in my axle sitting at 2" of lift.
Front brake lines are fine as-is as long as you aren't putting after market control arms on. You don't need aftermarket control arms with this low of a lift since the pinion angle is changed only minimally, and the stockers keep the axle from dropping far enough to be a problem with the brake lines. I have had no problem with the rear brake line either on my setup as the axle can't drop far enough (shocks will fully extend) to overextend the brake line. I've had the rear jacked up with the axle hanging to re-gear it and there was plenty of room for the brake line.
Disconnects are awesome for really rough road. I have the JKS ones. One thing I would mention though is that with only 2" or less of lift, go with the disconnects for a stock vehicle. I had the next size larger as that's what they suggested when I told them what I was doing, and they ended up punching holes in my fender wells when the suspension would bottom out. I would be running trails like shown in the video and the front would bottom out and the bolts that hold the disconnects to the sway bar would contact the fender well. I had JKS send me the stock size and they work perfect. I say they are awesome because you can disconnect them and allow the front wheels to absorb the impacts independently instead of trying to transfer energy to the other side and roll the body. I notice a big difference in ride quality when I running rough trails with the sway bar connected or disconnected.
A few comments on the above quote: There's no comparison between the OME shocks and the white body units. If you can afford the OME's get them. Do some reading on them and they are about the best you can put on an XJ if you want ride quality.
A track bar could be helpful, but at that low of a lift height, it is by no means necessary. On mine I have a little less than 1/4" shift in my axle sitting at 2" of lift.
Front brake lines are fine as-is as long as you aren't putting after market control arms on. You don't need aftermarket control arms with this low of a lift since the pinion angle is changed only minimally, and the stockers keep the axle from dropping far enough to be a problem with the brake lines. I have had no problem with the rear brake line either on my setup as the axle can't drop far enough (shocks will fully extend) to overextend the brake line. I've had the rear jacked up with the axle hanging to re-gear it and there was plenty of room for the brake line.
Disconnects are awesome for really rough road. I have the JKS ones. One thing I would mention though is that with only 2" or less of lift, go with the disconnects for a stock vehicle. I had the next size larger as that's what they suggested when I told them what I was doing, and they ended up punching holes in my fender wells when the suspension would bottom out. I would be running trails like shown in the video and the front would bottom out and the bolts that hold the disconnects to the sway bar would contact the fender well. I had JKS send me the stock size and they work perfect. I say they are awesome because you can disconnect them and allow the front wheels to absorb the impacts independently instead of trying to transfer energy to the other side and roll the body. I notice a big difference in ride quality when I running rough trails with the sway bar connected or disconnected.
I don't recommend the HD leafs unless the jeep is going to be pulling trailers/boats/etc. The HD leafs are so soft that a heavy rig that doesn't pull an extra load will always be on or nearly on the overload leafs, and that is not ideal. The light and medium load springs have the same spring rate, they just provide different amounts of lift. Both are 2" springs, but the medium duty leafs give 2" of lift if you weight it down with bumpers, roof racks, tire carriers, etc. That's why I went medium duty.
As for shocks, I personally have OME and yes, they are great. However, shocks are not the end-all of ride comfort. I know a lot of guys with very well built rigs that run the white bodies that ride pretty dang good for a fraction of the cost. Yes, if money allows, get OME. Bilstien 5100's are a shade cheaper and are stiffer for more rugged applications. However, with a quality spring, if money is tight, get white bodies. They're cheap and the easiest thing to remove/install for later upgrades.
I definitely agree with what you say about suspension components working together. That's why I about pitches a fit a few weeks ago when someone said they wanted HD OME rear springs and RE front coils. The OME HD rear springs are super soft while RE coils are as stiff as they come. Different spring rates is a recipe for an unpredictable ride. In my research, I fount Rusty's or IRO's coils are close to stock spring rate. They will work well with OME leafs.
As for the track bar, like I said, if he's **** about things being done right (and I totally am) he should get an adjustable to center his axle correctly. Obviously 2" is not much lift, but I think drilling a new hole for the stock track bar is hoakie. At 2", its even worse because the hole will be too close to the stock hole for my liking, strength-wise.
I agree with you on discos. He can do the 2" lift and leave his sway-bar stock though until he decides which route to go. If money is, there, get the discos....
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Last edited by Northwoods Snowman; Apr 26, 2013 at 11:37 PM.
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, MN
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was very close to doing the OME lift, but my buddy got napa parts at cost, so I ended up doing the Rock Lizard budget lift along with 235/75/15 BFG ATs for very cheap. I personally can't comment on the ride, because it was driven from the shop straight into my garage, where it has remained since, but he said it handled excellent and couldn't believe it. I used napa front coil NCP 2775360 along with slightly longer sensa track shocks. It had some sort of heavy duty rear leafs already in it, because the coils raised it about an inch and a half, and it sits level with the rear now. I am guessing they are the heavy duty quadratech spring packs, but know way to know for sure.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As I mentioned it really depends on the weight of the bumper. I carry about 200-250# of gear in the back (winch and cargo drawer with goodies) in the winter and the back squats about 1". Without the extra weight I sit right at 2". Even at 1" I still have a bit to go before I really ride the overload leaves. Here's a picture for reference (without the goodies in the back).


Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 76
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From: Colorado
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
alright guys, getting closer to pull the trigger time. i have about a week to order and i'm nervous as hell. the DPG ultimate kit, http://dpgoffroad.com/products/22-5-...mu-hybrid-kit/ , seems like the choice. its a bit pricey for me and doesnt includer upper and lower control arms which i think down the road will be necessary/help but thats the breaks.
the front bumper i'm looking at is ~50 lbs. the rear i'm looking at is ~150 lbs. so i'm thinking the HD will be necessary from all the ARB literature i'm looking at. Ugh, still kinda antsy on this. had thought i would have had this shored up a bit more but hell if i do. guess its just sink or swim at this point.
the front bumper i'm looking at is ~50 lbs. the rear i'm looking at is ~150 lbs. so i'm thinking the HD will be necessary from all the ARB literature i'm looking at. Ugh, still kinda antsy on this. had thought i would have had this shored up a bit more but hell if i do. guess its just sink or swim at this point.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
doesnt includer upper and lower control arms which i think down the road will be necessary/help but thats the breaks.
- anyone can tell me if i need new upper and lower Control Arms?
would adjustables be that much difference? which are best?
also should i look into polyeurothane bushings kits? this seemed legit: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=2%2E18105
thanks again
- anyone can tell me if i need new upper and lower Control Arms?
would adjustables be that much difference? which are best?
also should i look into polyeurothane bushings kits? this seemed legit: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=2%2E18105
thanks again
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If you go with a 2.5" lift you don't have to change the control arms. I have the stock ones on mine and don't have any issues with pinion angle. I would get a little more droop on the axle with aftermarket arms because the lowers bind on the mounting brackets at full droop, but then I'd have to start worrying about brake lines and such so I left it alone. I'm not interested in a flex king so it's not a big deal to me. Has taken me everywhere I'm willing to risk taking the Jeep so far.
As for poly bushings, stay away from them for what you want to do. They will be noisy and the ride won't be quite as smooth since they don't absorb shock and vibration like the OEM rubber bushings.
As for poly bushings, stay away from them for what you want to do. They will be noisy and the ride won't be quite as smooth since they don't absorb shock and vibration like the OEM rubber bushings.
I'll throw my 2 cents worth in on this. You may need a track bar with that lift, it really depends on the Jeep. I've seen 3" lifted XJs with stock track bars that were fine, but mine is at 1.5" on 33's and needs a track bar bad. The factory control arms on mine are also limiting the downtravel of my suspension pretty bad, so new control arms are on my list of things to buy as well, along with longer brake lines and Bilstein shocks. So you may or may not need extra parts, you'll just have to see what you need once the lift is on. Just don't be surprised if you need a couple little extra things to get the best performance out of it.
I will add though, I'm a big fan of keeping it low. My 1.5" lift along with a little trimming and 33's goes almost anywhere I want it to, and works great on and off road. I think you'll be very happy with the little lift.
I will add though, I'm a big fan of keeping it low. My 1.5" lift along with a little trimming and 33's goes almost anywhere I want it to, and works great on and off road. I think you'll be very happy with the little lift.
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