salad

Awesome idea, I'm all in!

Don't forget U-Joints. As well, the tail housing changed in 96 or 97 to require grease - years down shouldn't have this problem as ATF is leaked out from inside the unit to provide lubrication.

salad

Symptom: One or more of: Poor gas mileage, hissing/gurgling sound when under acceleration, raw exhaust or fuel smell from the vehicle

Description: "A month ago my mileage started getting worse but I drive a flying box so I didn't care too much, but now when I put my foot down I hear a watery noise and a hissing. Last night in the drive through I smelled gas while I was sitting still!"

Cause: The factory exhaust manifold is prone to cracking where the collector pipes merge to meet the flange for the downpipe to the first O2 sensor. This causes a leak of raw exhaust and intake of fresh air, fooling the computer into dumping more gas in.

Fix: The exhaust manifold should be welded (which may not last long) or replaced (recommended). This requires removal of the power steering pump, air box, and intake manifold. This may be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust header which can provide for greater operating efficiency over stock, as well many are designed to resist cracking.

These writeups can be used as guides:
http://www.jeepingsingles.net/tech/manifold.asp
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...-quide-279496/

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I'm not sure if you want to elaborate and provide full steps for that or just leave links... but I'd say a crack exhaust manifold is pretty common

clinky

does anybody have a cracking noise when you roll up the windows?

Unknown XJ

I fixed my lift gate latch...... Had to do this weird push/ pull thing to open it. Seemed as if I was the only one that could open it to lol. Anyways I took the trim off,to see the latch mechanism. There you will see a threaded rod coming up from the latch held in by two clips. Pop it out and raise its position in the clips,adjust accordingly and you will be able to open it with one hand..... Now if I could just get the supports replaced I'll be straight. Money is somewhat tight at the moment......but free fixes keeps ya from getting bored.....

Xj4lyfe

You know for the passenger door window switch not working is a huge problem. I had redone the wiring and everything on a DIY and dealership still goes back to the same thing, not working.

Idk if this is the case with every cherokee that has this problem but on 3 of the cherokees that did have the problem.

If you hit the door lock button on the driver side towards (lock) the passenger window will start working(usually)

If you hold the door lock switch on the driver side 1/8th of an inch towards the (lock) the passenger window will start working. For those of you good with wiring you could try and keep the door lock switch point 1.8th of the inch over and should fix the problem

Like i said this has worked on 3 cherokees with the problem, and I don't know if it will work on everything, but least its something else peeps can try.

stock95sport(for now)

Don't forget U-Joints. As well, the tail housing changed in 96 or 97 to require grease - years down shouldn't have this problem as ATF is leaked out from inside the unit to provide lubrication.[/QUOTE]

Yeah o nthe earlier years, if you are experiencing this clunking when stopping/taking off (as i was on my 95) your transfer case may be BONE dry (as mine was on my 95!!). filled her up, clunking immediately gone!

77olds

Thanks Salad, I'll add yours to the first post.

The rest of you who gave extra suggestions for common problems, I'll add them too, but please write them up in a clearly descriptive way, if you don't mind.

gunnersguru

sub thanks

KJamesJR

+1

I couldn't figure this out for the longest time. Ended up spending $10 on an entire new handle assembly at the JY to fix this. Pulled my trim off (again), and noticed that threaded rod was sitting a little too low... Popped it out, pulled it up, then popped it back in. Works like a charm. You can also get a nut to thread onto the end of that thing to keep it from inching down again.

My lock cylinder was also dropping into my hatch... If you have this problem:

Pull your trim off the hatch and you'll see your lock cylinder mounted into your handle. At the very top of the lock cylinder is a thin crevasse, which can be hard to see in the absence of light.

In this crevasse there is a C-clip, large in diameter, though very thin, that is suppose to slide in and snap into place. Chances are, yours has rusted out, or broken. Find another thin C-clamp, about the size of a golf ball, and press it back into that crevasse. Try looking at a hardware store, or off another XJ from the JY. I only discovered this since I actually bought the entire mechanism... and only used one c-clamp.

Also my lock wasn't opening... Not the actuator, but the big metal lock that closes shut onto your bumper. I fixed this by pulling it out. There's three rather large bolts holding this in at the bottom of your hatch, you'll need to remove your trim to access them. They take a torex socket, forgot what size, but large. Loosen those bolts and pull them out. Then through the back of your hatch you'll need to disconnect that threaded rod I was talking about earlier. Don't try to force the lock directly out the back square opening. Instead slide it to your right, and pull it out the adjacent opening.

Spray some PB in where you can get it, then use the shaft end of an extension socket and work the locking mechanism. There's a tab on the side, where the threaded rod (I want to say it has a green tab on it?) attaches too, this is to open the mechanism. Keep working it and lubing it until it opens freely. Then re-assemble.

I had three problems going on with that lock and didn't realize it until I took everything apart. Works flawlessly now.

As for the cracking sound under the dash... No clue. I have it as well.

aussie paul

Great idea, But having owned my 94 Sport since new I think there are a few more you can add to the list. Not just mine, but every other XJ owner here in Australia I've spoken to has had these also.
Radiator-Leaks from plastic tank seal area, minor but not good. Fitted aftermarket all brass and copper one. About 50k miles
Water pump-Major failure due to bearing failure. Fitted new pump, about 50k miles
C.P.S failed and car wouldn't start, fitted new OEM one, about 50k miles
R/H engine mount, split rubber, didn't spot it until advised by another owner, L/H seems to last longer, also changed transmission mount
Head Lights not switching from hi to low beam, I fixed mine by adding two relays (hi and lo) as I don't think factory set up is any good.
Other than the above, it's been a good vehicle which I still own, but as a 2nd car so not much use these days. It only has 126k KMs on it (about 80k miles)
Cheers from over here.

salad

That water pump failure: You're talking about the VM Motori engine right? On the 4.0Ls they last for a very long time

rajo

+1
Even after adjustment, it was not working quite properly, tho it was better. After taking a longer look, I used a liberal amount of PB blaster and now it works just as it should.

aussie paul

No Mate, the 4 liter petrol engine, AW4 transmission, there was no diesel option over here in 94.
Cheers Paul

mrfajita

The NSS isn't a problem, its just my anti-theft device

holycaveman

The thumping sound is often a bad transmission mount.