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Who sells these weld in U-joint plates

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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 02:55 PM
  #16  
ktmracer419's Avatar
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I like how they advertise them as fitting Dana 44s too. sure they will fit the shaft, but clearly they have never worked with a 44 if they think the shafts will fit through the knuckles with these on.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
I like how they advertise them as fitting Dana 44s too. sure they will fit the shaft, but clearly they have never worked with a 44 if they think the shafts will fit through the knuckles with these on.
True. You even have to notch the knuckles to fit super joints or CTMs in there. PITA.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:21 PM
  #18  
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Seems like the clips could still pop out. I found this seaeching around and it seems like the cap is gonna stay with the yoke even if the ears break off completely.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
True. You even have to notch the knuckles to fit super joints or CTMs in there. PITA.
Not just those.. Nitro shafts wont fit through a stock knuckle... and on a Reid Knuckle which has notches in them it is a PITA.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #20  
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SO inconclusion.. these "almost alloy" axles become total junk.. cause now the driver has more confidence in them and totally hammer on their rig.. causing other failures.


Also every time I broke an alloy shaft in my d30.. it wasnt the 760 u-joint that failed it was the inner splines on the short side shaft. I broke a Yukon inner.. as well as an original Alloy USA shaft (before they got bought out). In fact on the Alloy Usa I broke a stub and inner and twisted the long side inner shaft and broke my lock right pins.. and no u-joint failure. So beef up your u-joints so something else fails.. and see what happens.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by PingPong
Not just those.. Nitro shafts wont fit through a stock knuckle... and on a Reid Knuckle which has notches in them it is a PITA.
Ford knuckles have a bigger hole. IMO, Ford knuckles are a must if you run 44 RCVs. To hell with pulling the ball joints to remove the shaft.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #22  
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Dumb idea such a waste of time and money lol. On the small xj shafts none 760 joints guess u could give it a try but not a good idea. All the stock axles i broke ( small u joint) stock u joint cracked a cap after that i ran spicers and the ears on the axles went first. Iro calling this almost alloys is as bad as trail gear with there "super metal" lol

Last edited by Nathan9Mile; Jun 6, 2013 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 03:07 PM
  #23  
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So what happens if I buy Chromoly shafts AND use these "almost alloy" plates? is my front end the equivalent of a d60?

This is the biggest waste I have ever come across in the 4x4 community
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DougyFresh
So what happens if I buy Chromoly shafts AND use these "almost alloy" plates? is my front end the equivalent of a d60?

This is the biggest waste I have ever come across in the 4x4 community
Rockwell.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Ford knuckles have a bigger hole. IMO, Ford knuckles are a must if you run 44 RCVs. To hell with pulling the ball joints to remove the shaft.
yup. no problems with my big dumb ford knuckles. but they suck in every other way.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI

yup. no problems with my big dumb ford knuckles. but they suck in every other way.
why do u say that? Are they f150 knuckles?
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