Please do explain how the almost alloy is junk.

Serious, I have not used it or know anyone who used it. But I have twisted shafts before right where the almost alloy pieces go.

Seemed like a good idea?

 

If and when you do break a joint. You will not be able to change it on the trail. It's a decent idea, but not something I would ever recommend. Junk wasn't the right word, they do what they advertise

 

ah... Well that is something to consider. And you can't just change u-joints like before. You would have to cut the caps off first. Which would make it a PITA.

Thanks

 

Yea, and although chromos and nice joints may seem steep. The money you could eventually save from not replacing shafts and joints will make it worth it

 

You could apply the same logic to RCV's and save even more money. They'd never break cuz most people will be working weekends to pay for them instead of wheeling. For those of us on limited budgets and mild builds, the almost alloys probably are just fine.

 

They don't increase the strength of anything, the help with 1 problem the stock ears have. The joints and shafts themselves will still break

 

Isnt helping with the problem of the ears increasing the strength of them? $600 is pretty expensive insurance compared to $30 to prevent the caps from walking and taking out the BJ's in the middle of no where. Also, the stock axles have more elasticity which will transmit less shock to the R&P than 4340. I'd rather have an axle snap before the R&P grenades on my budget. I'm pretty sure 1541H rear axles use that particular alloy to prevent shock to the gears as well as flex rather than snap on hard landings.

 

FWIW, you can do the same thing as the almost alloys with $2 worth of washers...

 

The JK 30's aren't anything to shout about. One of my wheeling buddies snapped his JKu's 30 at Rausch. He now runs a 44 up front.