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trying to find out why it wont start. Acts like the battery is low. Tried jumping it, goes to start and can hear the drain of the power going out. Put a new battery in it, same issue.
Sounds like a short - If you have a shop manual with wiring diagrams, a VOM and a LOT of patience - look for the obvious first - Good Luck
I had a starter on a 89 4.0 XJ go out years ago. Sometimes you can give a whack on the starter from underneath the vehicle enough to get a couple more starts on it.
I changed out my Costco battery that was under warranty and it was no help.
Changed the starter and life was good 👍
74Plb
I had a starter on a 89 4.0 XJ go out years ago. Sometimes you can give a whack on the starter from underneath the vehicle enough to get a couple more starts on it.
I changed out my Costco battery that was under warranty and it was no help.
Changed the starter and life was good 👍
74Plb
I did do the tap tap on it. If changing the cables dont work, they look a bit corroded, then I'll check the starter and see if it is bad. I'm thinking I'm not getting enough juice to the starter.
It does try and start which makes me think it isn't the NSS or the CPS.
Changed the front diff fluid. While I was doing that I installed a Spicer nodular cover. I was going to go with just a lube locker gasket but then I told myself since the nodular with drain plug would remove the need for a lube locker plus comes with a silicone reusable gasket I was basically saving myself money upgrading. Replaced the nylon washer on the Advanced Adapters SYE with a copper one because the one that came with it leaked. Test drove then realized I should re-aim the E codes I put on along with a relay harness. Man those two things make a huge difference being able to see at night. Wish I did that for my mom while she was driving this thing but I didn't know all the XJ stuff I've learned recently. Noticed there's something going on where the backup lights aren't always coming on going into reverse so I'll have to look at that.
Took my 90 XJ Ltd to a DEQ station In Portland Ore to see if it would pass for a Oregon buyer. It's registered in SW Washington without out smog requirements. With a smog certificate this will help with the sale quite abit.
A pass first time is always good!
74Plb
Finally removed the external trim pieces. They were sun faded and starting to peel off.
Only took about an hour and a half. I just used plastic panel removal tools to carefully pry them off (no heat needed) and an eraser disc on a drill (no adhesive remover needed).
Replaced the valve cover gasket. Since I had it off I replaced the gromits and orifices with OEM. I'll try to do the oil filter adapter o-ring when I change over to winter oil and hopefully that will clean things up a bit.
Replaced the valve cover gasket. Since I had it off I replaced the gromits and orifices with OEM. I'll try to do the oil filter adapter o-ring when I change over to winter oil and hopefully that will clean things up a bit.
dang...I just remembered I still need to replace the adapter o-ring as well...I bough the oring like 5 years ago...
Fixed water leaks in firewall.
Replaced master/slave clutch assembly a couple weeks ago and the new one has a gasket. Apparently it's not a very good one. First steady rain since replacement gave me a driver's side foot well full of wet carpet.
I actually have a piece of rubber I was going to use as a gasket when I replaced this, but since the new one had a gasket I skipped it. OK, fool me once...
Used 3M mounting putty, like I had on it before this replacement. Except used the off-white stuff this time. The blue variety is a similar LocTite product.
1996 Cherokee XJ Sport, 381,000 miles.
Replaced track bar, and it took all day.
A few months ago I replaced the axle side bushing with urethane, but tore the boot on the frame end, couldn't find a replacement boot. It ended up collecting water, and in winter it would freeze in there and steering was stuck until I broke it loose (just turn the wheel).
Delco unit from Rockauto, which actually looks better that OEM. Replaced the bushing in advance because I just don't want to do this again. BTW Chrysler, hers is a middle finger for the 15mm bold head.
Torque wrench decided to only work in one direction, so replaced it at Harbor Freight. The new 1/2" drive tq wrenches look a lot nicer that the one I turned in.
Removed ball joint end from frame with a pickle fork and 4 LB sledge hammer.
I put my 1995 up for sale on FB marketplace.
Short on time, (and funds), and about to move a few states over, so I'm not going to drag this thing with us.
Looks like the valve cover gasket and 90 degree oil filter adapter were the sources of all my engine oil leaks. Working under it yesterday and saw no new oil on oil pan.