I fixed my defrost only mode and reinstalled the receiver hitch. Next up: Front end alignment, some tire/wheel swapping, new windshield. Lastly, if I can find someone that still does it; get the headlights aimed correctly.

Then I'm going to take a break and get some miles put on it to see what else comes up before I start into tow hooks, fog lights, etc.

 

Today I took on the headlight wiring harness upgrade challenge. I bought the $18 one off of Amazon. It's pure crap. I replaced the relays with quality ones and instead of extending the main +12V supply wire, I installed an actual 12 AWG fused wire as the red wire they have looks thick but it really looks like a 16 AWG wire when you strip it! (See middle photo).
Looking back, I already own waterproof 40A relays and plenty of wire; I suppose I was feeling lazy when I ordered this kit. Installation is easy; I pulled the grill off too to run the wire to the driver side. I did the splice mod for the fog lights at the driver side plug so there isn't any issue with the high beams staying on (first photo).
I attempted to loosen the main body ground and may have caused a calamity as the welded nut on the other side spins now. Just in case, I ran another ground wire to the body using dense pure copper 10 AWG wire to a rivnut I installed. When I do decide to do the "Big Seven" upgrade I'll run even a a better ground.

 

It closes just like it did before. Bring it down about half way and let it go.

 

While doing the headlight harness upgrade I found it that the headlight retainer screws were horribly rusted. They are 8-32 machine screws that are 3/4" long. I replaced them with stainless ones with the exception of one that is stripped.

 

I don't have picture but I used bolts there replacing those screws.
I can get in there with the necessary socket and my 1/4" ratchet so figured it was OK to use them.
Just like the idea of bolts better then screws so......

 

Ahh I thought it 'auto lifted' once you released the secondary latch. So it has to be lifted anyway.

 

Now why didn't I think of that?

 

1/4 of the way, and the struts take over from there. Even with that it's still less strain on my bad arm and back.

 

You could always replace the gas struts with electric liner actuators and have a button or remote control to open and close the hood.

 

That's beyond my skill set.

 

Mine too, but then I'm fortunate enough not to have health issues distracting from the old skool charm of the original prop.

 

I got an alignment yesterday, a slow leak in a tire repaired and a new windshield today. I have this thing to the point now that I need to drive it more to see what comes up needing attention. I know the AC needs recharged. But that can wait until I decide whether to buy the tools and DIY it or take it to a shop.

 

Light list: Fractured Right Scapula, Left Wrist, L4 and C6 here.
At 62; The less I move the more it hurts!
ymmv of course.

 

Like I said, I'm very fortunate, certainly when it comes to health issues - although I'm not as strong as I was, so the time might come . . .

Today,after my Saturday morning ritual: a 70 mile drive round my local National Park I investigated the knocking sound seeming to come from the rt. rear wheel, but only when coasting. Apart from the to be expected 150,000 mile play in the diff I didn't find anything. However, I was surprised at how loose the drum was so, perhaps 'cos it was like a Spring day, I thought I might as well take it off, just to have a look see. Glad I did, as the leading edge of the lining on the right shoe had worn away for an inch or so. Rest of the lining was at the point I'd think about new shoes anyway, but the other shoe had nowhere near that much wear. Now uneven wear on drum brakes is not so common - & they've not done more'n 20,000 miles. 2 things occurred to me, maybe on account of their age it had started to delaminate, Jeep e-brake linings on rear disc models seem prone to that or, did I not set up the e=brake as well as I thought I had? Anyway, rummaging around in the garage produced a shoe perhaps a little less worn but, importantly, evenly. Now XJ back brakes are a pet hate but something had to be done as a stopgap. In the event, not as bad as I feared, of course I was only doing one - & I'd left off the (useless) auto adjustment for the e-brake.

I s'pose, just as a precaution, I'd better have a look at the other side tomorrow, which wasn't the plan at all. .

 

Blower motor resistor went kaput so decided to replace blower motor, resistor, and add relays for fan switch. Because 96's are a different breed there is only 1 green wire at the blower motor resistor connector so you only install 3 relays skipping the high speed green wire. Original motor had tons of play and was very warn out but still ran. After new motor, resistor and relays I could notice a much improved air flow at all speeds. That worn motor was taking its toll on the resistor and probably the switch and wiring.