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I would try grounding the deck straight to the chassis bare metal, first.
Be sure the ground wire for the amp is larger than the power wire and as short as possible (also attached to bare metal).
You can pull the RCA jacks to help isolate further if you used those.
Pull them from the amp and if the noise persists it is entering somewhere else at the amp.
Also be sure to not run the remote lead or power wires near the RCA cables (if used).
Thank you Audio, I was hoping you would chime in on this one for sure. I believe I made the rookie mistake of running my power wire and speaker wire too close together. The only thing that changed was the installation of new speaker wire from the front doors to the amp, as I wasn't using the front speakers at all before. Tomorrow I'm going to fix that. I got some new 4ga OFC wire for both power and ground, and a couple of distro blocks. The plan is to distro the ground as well this time so that I can be sure it's a good one. So I'll have 4 ga in/out from the distros and 8ga from the distro to the amps. Total watts is like 1000 from both amps.
Anyways, I'm going to be running the new power thru the firewall and under the center console in the center of the Jeep and keep the signal wires on the outside. At least that's the plan. There's a lot of great football to see so this may be a 2 day thing.
Replaced third brake lights with Sylvania 194 cool white from Walmart (less than $7 each).
Weird thing, and maybe these replacements are directional, the one that replaced an actual blown bulb would not light. I swapped the bulbs around (didn't pay attention to orientation in socket, but the bulbs have a red dot on one leg) and both worked.Used Permatex dielectric grease in sockets, even though they had no signs of corrosion.
Replaced third brake lights with Sylvania 194 cool white from Walmart (less than $7 each).
Weird thing, and maybe these replacements are directional, the one that replaced an actual blown bulb would not light. I swapped the bulbs around (didn't pay attention to orientation in socket, but the bulbs have a red dot on one leg) and both worked.Used Permatex dielectric grease in sockets, even though they had no signs of corrosion.
Not quite understanding you.
The 194 was an LED?
They have polarity so that would explain what I think you are saying.
And not that it matters a real lot but the color of the bulb should match the color of the lens.
Not quite understanding you.
The 194 was an LED?
They have polarity so that would explain what I think you are saying.
And not that it matters a real lot but the color of the bulb should match the color of the lens.
The new 194 is an LED. I replaced a pair of white incandescent 194s with LED.
And look right there, partially legible instructions that I didn't read before about installed orientation.
No, if you have a colored lens you put a white light behind it. If you have a clear lens, you use a colored bulb to have the desired color output. Not a single bulb in this XJ, or any other vehicle I've ever replaced a bulb on, had a colored bulb behind a colored lens.
Last edited by 318SixPack; Nov 28, 2020 at 06:35 PM.
True for incandescent bulbs. But with LED you color match. If the LED is "white" inside a red lens then all the colors except red are filtered out by the lens so they are wasted. If it only makes red then all the light goes through to the viewers. This works like this because incandescent bulbs really make all the colors and then you filter out the colors you don't want and filtering twice dims the bulb, but "white" LEDs don't make all the colors. They make three or four colors that your eye averages out to white, but with a colored lens only one of those colors makes it out and the others are just wasted and again you are dimmer than you should be.
Tonight on the drive home from work I noticed some weird engine hesitation and/or vibrations that I haven't seen before. Feels like it's shifting weird all of the sudden as if it's not hitting on all cylinders. Looks like I'll be checking the plugs and cap, TPS, IAC, MAF, and cleaning the throttle body in the morning.
No, if you have a colored lens you put a white light behind it. If you have a clear lens, you use a colored bulb to have the desired color output. Not a single bulb in this XJ, or any other vehicle I've ever replaced a bulb on, had a colored bulb behind a colored lens.
Originally Posted by doublechaz
True for incandescent bulbs. But with LED you color match. If the LED is "white" inside a red lens then all the colors except red are filtered out by the lens so they are wasted. If it only makes red then all the light goes through to the viewers. This works like this because incandescent bulbs really make all the colors and then you filter out the colors you don't want and filtering twice dims the bulb, but "white" LEDs don't make all the colors. They make three or four colors that your eye averages out to white, but with a colored lens only one of those colors makes it out and the others are just wasted and again you are dimmer than you should be.
I researched this when I put all the Sylvania Zevo, well mostly all Sylvania Zevo, LED's in my '00.
In my write up about it taken off the Sylvania website:
The color spectrum of an incandescent bulb is different than color spectrum of a white LED. This impacts the color LED you should purchase, but the easy general rule is that the bulb should match the color of the lens that covers the bulb.
Clear Lens: Depending on the application, either a white or an amber bulb can be used behind a clear lens.
Red Lens: Always choose a red LED bulb behind a red lens. If you place a white LED behind a red tail/brake lens, there will be too much orange/yellow and the light will appear pink/orange.
Amber Lens: Always choose an amber LED bulb behind an amber lens. If you place a white LED behind an amber lens, the light will appear greenish.
Thank you Audio, I was hoping you would chime in on this one for sure. I believe I made the rookie mistake of running my power wire and speaker wire too close together. The only thing that changed was the installation of new speaker wire from the front doors to the amp, as I wasn't using the front speakers at all before. Tomorrow I'm going to fix that. I got some new 4ga OFC wire for both power and ground, and a couple of distro blocks. The plan is to distro the ground as well this time so that I can be sure it's a good one. So I'll have 4 ga in/out from the distros and 8ga from the distro to the amps. Total watts is like 1000 from both amps.
Anyways, I'm going to be running the new power thru the firewall and under the center console in the center of the Jeep and keep the signal wires on the outside. At least that's the plan. There's a lot of great football to see so this may be a 2 day thing.
Sounds like you have a viable plan and hw.
Fwiw I generally run power down one side, RCA's down the center and speaker wires down the other side.
I have had to distribute grounds far too often but you just have to fight it.
Enjoy the games!
Well, the odds are not in my favor, but I feel like I'm making some progress. Now it only buzzes when the engine is running. Tomorrow I'll pull the head unit and try installing the RCA ground loop isolators on the radio side. We'll see if that works.
1996 XJ 360,000 and change, 242.
Oil change, WIX filter Mobil 1 5w30 high mileage. Even though oil analysis from a couple months ago said oil was like new at 7,500 miles. It had high soot, so I'm on second tank of gas with Techron added. Mileage increased by about 1 mpg on the first tank with Techron, but could just be a measurement error too.
Air filter change, WIX
Replaced tiny little Check Engine light with one from a junk yard 1995 XJ. Will post pix on the tech forum to see if anybody knows what number they are.
Too late on the LEDs. They are in, staying in, and look fine to me.
Took throttle body out. Cleaned it including all ports, Idle Air Controller, and Throttle Position Sensor. Reinstalled sensors with Locktite Blue 242 on threads. Replaced TB gasket with a new FelPro gasket, dry. Old gasket peeled out in two pieces, clean.
White Lithium grease on cable and spring connections. Nickle anti-seize on TB mounting bolts.
Budget/spacer lift for the sake of wheels and tires to be put on. I have a Dana 30HP I need to pick up and start rebuilding for the 4x4 swap this coming spring (other parts pending)
I'm going to start piecing together a real lift, likely using OME 2934 front springs and OME Leafs for the rear and Bilstein 5100's or OME shocks.
The 2934's say Grand Cherokee specific. Will they fit the XJ's?
I only mention it because the ones I found (2930's) were also for the grand cherokees but the ones with 4.0's only (1.5" 110-200 lbs on the XJ).
The 2934 says v8 Grand Cherokees.
Last edited by AudioFreq; Dec 1, 2020 at 02:23 PM.
