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I have been working on this for quite sometime.
I am guessing you are talking about these
Yeah those are nice seat covers. I was actually surprised when you posted that one pic awhile back of the fronts and said they were covers. The real leather ones are about a dead on match grain wise but to expensive for something that isn't going to get sat on lol. I like the rhino ones but it looks a little more like a distressed leather up close. The leatherette is a pretty close match for the price. That's awesome they didn't charge you for the extra head rest.
Originally Posted by AudioFreq
I would think a properly fused relay and new wiring including a short, 10 gauge ground wire would be the best bet.
Ralph is right they have the harness and everything. That's only a 5amp fuse so I guess they don't need much power. If the lighter circuit is 25amp that should be fine right?
There is a module thing under each seat that they plug into.
Yeah those are nice seat covers. I was actually surprised when you posted that one pic awhile back of the fronts and said they were covers. The real leather ones are about a dead on match grain wise but to expensive for something that isn't going to get sat on lol. I like the rhino ones but it looks a little more like a distressed leather up close. The leatherette is a pretty close match for the price. That's awesome they didn't charge you for the extra head rest.
Ralph is right they have the harness and everything. That's only a 5amp fuse so I guess they don't need much power. If the lighter circuit is 25amp that should be fine right?
If you go to the CoverKing website there is a place there to request swatches. Maybe you can find something that you can live with.
Yeah I was happy they did not charge me either. Just for the reason that if I can't pull off the rear seat head rest mod I am not out the $60. LOL.
Basically what they sold you with those seats are aftermarket seat heaters that you could have bought yourself separately.
So if it were me I would just Google putting seat heaters in a car. All sorts of info will come up.
See how people handle it and pick the way you like best.
And now I am wondering if they do draw a lot of power. I kinda thought they did but if there is only a 5 amp fuse in the harness guessing they don't.
Maybe guys just splice into the cigarette lighter cause it is close to where they put the switches.
Speaking of which if it were me I would use something like this for the switches.
That would put them in the factory position.
I could have sworn I have seen one for only 2 switches or a blank that you drill your own holes in.
But I can't find what I think I saw.
Could make something to go there. Or buy one with places with for more switches and have a use for them.
Or you know what would even be better that I have tried to research and can't find an answer for?
If you could use the factory switches with the aftermarket harness and heating pads.
That would be awesome IMO.
Kind of like how I put factory fogs in my '00 that did not come with them.
Look factory of front, cause I bought some aftermarket OEM looking ones, and in the passenger compartment
cause I used a factory switch. But they are wired like aux lighting would be.
Yeah those are nice seat covers. I was actually surprised when you posted that one pic awhile back of the fronts and said they were covers. The real leather ones are about a dead on match grain wise but to expensive for something that isn't going to get sat on lol. I like the rhino ones but it looks a little more like a distressed leather up close. The leatherette is a pretty close match for the price. That's awesome they didn't charge you for the extra head rest.
Ralph is right they have the harness and everything. That's only a 5amp fuse so I guess they don't need much power. If the lighter circuit is 25amp that should be fine right?
There is a module thing under each seat that they plug into.
I see no relay although that lighter circuit (is 25A) would do I always use larger than required ground wires to prevent voltage drops and reduce DC resistance (especially with 20 year old+
wiring).
I would be running the power to a suitable distribution block. Just form of habit.
I fully support 'XJ my way' although this one looked like a post seeking advice. Those are slick looking covers.
As you were...
I see no relay although that lighter circuit (is 25A) would do I always use larger than required ground wires to prevent voltage drops and reduce DC resistance (especially with 20 year old+
wiring).
I would be running the power to a suitable distribution block. Just form of habit.
I fully support 'XJ my way' although this one looked like a post seeking advice. Those are slick looking covers.
As you were...
You are right I did not notice that there was no relay in the harness. Just assumed there was cause all the aftermarket ones seem to have one.
If you go to the CoverKing website there is a place there to request swatches. Maybe you can find something that you can live with.
Yeah I was happy they did not charge me either. Just for the reason that if I can't pull off the rear seat head rest mod I am not out the $60. LOL.
Basically what they sold you with those seats are aftermarket seat heaters that you could have bought yourself separately.
So if it were me I would just Google putting seat heaters in a car. All sorts of info will come up.
See how people handle it and pick the way you like best.
And now I am wondering if they do draw a lot of power. I kinda thought they did but if there is only a 5 amp fuse in the harness guessing they don't.
Maybe guys just splice into the cigarette lighter cause it is close to where they put the switches.
Speaking of which if it were me I would use something like this for the switches.
That would put them in the factory position.
I could have sworn I have seen one for only 2 switches or a blank that you drill your own holes in.
But I can't find what I think I saw.
Could make something to go there. Or buy one with places with for more switches and have a use for them.
Or you know what would even be better that I have tried to research and can't find an answer for?
If you could use the factory switches with the aftermarket harness and heating pads.
That would be awesome IMO.
Kind of like how I put factory fogs in my '00 that did not come with them.
Look factory of front, cause I bought some aftermarket OEM looking ones, and in the passenger compartment
cause I used a factory switch. But they are wired like aux lighting would be.
I noticed they didn't have a relay. I would be worried if they were just some random seat heaters I got off ebay but being installed by Corbeau in their seats I can't imagine they don't know what they are doing 🤞I sure don't trust myself with making my own harness lol. This is what they look like.
I was thinking my lighter plug will charge my phone when the jeep is off and I wouldn't want the heaters to be able to accidentally be left on so I think I'll try to wire them into the factory heater plug like Ralph was saying.
That factory switch would be cool but I've had this one that a member made me years ago (wonder if he is still around) I think he had plates that looked like the one in that link too.
I don't think AudioFreq meant anything by it but yeah I've been getting off topic from this thread. Thanks for the help and ideas though. I'll ask in the right one if I need more help.
Oh and thanks Ralph I must of not looked hard enough or in the right place to find that they had swatches of the seat cover material. I'll look again on the desktop site.
So think I finalized how to how I am going to deal with the headrest. At least on the passenger side and will know better once I put the cover on and put it back in the Jeep.
At the moment just using bolts. 5/16"X2". But for the final product going to use these.
The bolt head would just catch things and whatnot so figure the dome head will be better.
Using the bolt and a washer through the back.
To keep things from pulling through put washers everywhere. The spacer on the left is a 3/8"X3/4". One on the right is 3/8"X1".
Now I had to add an additional washer to the one on the right cause the posts from the headrest were hitting that bar.
Raised it up just enough to clear. Was thinking about cutting them down but did not really want to.
Also those spacers have achieved putting the bracket a proper distance from that plate so everything looks right.
At least IMO.
Now position side to side is really easy to determine from the foam.
Looks like they notched the foam so they could also use it in the European Versions that come with rear seat headrests.
But I had to cut away some more to clear the front seat headrest bracket I am using.
I think I achieved a good height for the bracket to on that plate.
See how it just rides on the inner reinforcement at the top.
With the exception that I wish I drilled the holes a little straighter, see the angle on how things are bolted,
I think it will be OK.
Looks good to me. I can't tell what you are saying is at an angle.
The second shot cause the holes don't line as well as I would have liked.
And after putting everything back together and the seat back in now I think the
bracket is riding on a little to high, The headrest is not butting up against the seat.
So when I start messing with the other side I will see if I can make it better.
Have to order those button head bolts, get more spacer, etc so this project will be
on hold for a bit.
How was doing the ball joints? I still need to do mine.
Not terrible. Rent the big kit from advanced. Soak for a few days with pb. When pressing them out, I recommend getting tension on the press, then hitting the axle knuckle with a baby sledge a few times. More pressure, and a few more taps. Rinse and repeat. The joint will pop loose and you can press it the rest of the way.
So I figured I would at least do a little more make ready for rear the headrest install.
Separated another headrest bracket from the seat.
In case anybody is interested the cover comes off pretty easy.
Also the upper seat cover is the same. Left or right. At least with the Camel leather seats.
Cause I wanted to see if I could do that and checked the part numbers.
Used the passenger side upper from a second set I had for a driver's side.
So a cutting wheel to separate the bracket from the framework, grinding wheel for the heavy lifting, and flap disc for the finish.
Don't know if I ever showed you guys my $15 6" vise. Craigslist awhile back one town over.
I looked it up. It is an Irwin and only costs about $80 new at Home Depot.
Most people did not like it in the reviews. LOL.
Just wish I had somewhere to bolt it. But being heavier it still works for some situations.
Like this one. MLOL.
Not terrible. Rent the big kit from advanced. Soak for a few days with pb. When pressing them out, I recommend getting tension on the press, then hitting the axle knuckle with a baby sledge a few times. More pressure, and a few more taps. Rinse and repeat. The joint will pop loose and you can press it the rest of the way.
IMO the ball joints and Rear Main Seal repair are two quintessential, monumental, PITA events for any XJ owner with over 200K miles. I will say that for I think $40 I bought a ball joint press on Amazon for this job. I just couldn't justify "renting" this tool and I have found a few other things to use it for--UCA bushings, for instance--so I figure it paid for itself. When my ball joints finally let go when I was pressing them out, it sounded and felt like a 12 gauge shotgun blast, and required some serious leverage with a 3 foot gas pipe and 1/2" socket.
That said, spending money on decent tires/lift without doing your ball joints is like pissing up a rope and seriously counterproductive. They will wear unevenly.
Anyways, just my opinion. Doing my ball joints gave me a ton of confidence on this rig and I highly recommend scoring a few cans of PB Blaster and a metric ton of patience to get it done right.
So manhandling the rear seat yesterday took a little bit out of me.
Working with the angle grinder today did a little number on my hands. They are not really in the best of shape anymore.
So I figured out I would finish out the day with a couple small things.
One of the vents in the wood grain bezel I added to the Jeep would not move to close the vent.
Rotate up and down though. Been meaning to deal with this for sometime now.
They pop easy and looking at it looks like somebody managed to spill coffee in there.
Hot water and a toothbrush be good to go. Hit the other one just because.
Also lately my wired remote for my 6 CD Changer has been kicking off and the CD stops playing.
I can see the backlight in it go off when this happens. Figure go in there and see if anything jumps out at me. Since I am half way there cause it is behind the radio.
Hoping it is just loose where it plugs into the FM Modulator.