What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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May 2, 2015 | 10:08 AM
  #71281  
What did you do to your cherokee today?
Quote: I have a key lol
Fine! Be that way! hahaha
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May 2, 2015 | 11:06 AM
  #71282  
Get a little RF fob and tie it into a relay on the run circuit? Then you can only start with the fob close
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May 2, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #71283  
Quote: OK. That's cool but weird. If somebody breaks the glass they can steal your ride. But it's still cool. You need to come up with a new label to paint over the cigarette. Maybe like "turbo boost" or "self destruct".
No no no. do u see any toggle switches to engage fuel pump??? NOPE. You still need turn the key into the on position or else u get nothing.
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May 2, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #71284  
Quote: Yup... shows about the same result as my Tire Size Calculator app - OEM tire size on mine was 195/75r15 according to the door sticker which matches my vin.



Looks good! Close to factory!
Thanks bud. kinda what I was going for!
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May 2, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #71285  
Quote: First off, the button is only for Start, not Ignition On.

Secondly, who'd wanna steal a Renix Jeep?
Exactly! and what's wrong with a renix. lol
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May 2, 2015 | 11:56 AM
  #71286  
Quote: I've done it. Replace the center pin when you pull them apart.

I used some gloss black enamel paint, but then did a graphite coating on mine before I reassembled. Worked awesome.
Thanks for the info. I'm doing a add a leaf I think it comes with a new center pin. I black glossed all the front and I wanted to the same with the back. Can't wait to it the road I hope some time this coming week. I'll post pics

What did you do to your Cherokee today?-2015-05-02-10.54.58.jpg  

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May 2, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #71287  
Quote: Thanks for the info. I'm doing a add a leaf I think it comes with a new center pin. I black glossed all the front and I wanted to the same with the back. Can't wait to it the road I hope some time this coming week. I'll post pics
No no no, don't hit the road! Hit the OFF ROAD and get some mud on that paint.
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May 2, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #71288  
Quote: No no no. do u see any toggle switches to engage fuel pump??? NOPE. You still need turn the key into the on position or else u get nothing.

Does your starter button have an "always hot" power supply or did you wire it off of the ignition wire so that it would only crank in "run" position ?


My 1989 K1500 won't start in really cold weather because one of the tabs in broke off and you can't quite get the key switch to turn far enough to push the long rod to engage the starter position on the switch. Works fine above 20F or so. Rather than replace the switch I'm thinking about just adding a push button somewhere.


Years ago working at the service station, I changed the oil on a Land Rover 90. I don't know if it was factory or not, but the starter button was way up under the middle of the dash on the firewall. It was probably almost theft proof
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May 2, 2015 | 03:40 PM
  #71289  
Quote: Does your starter button have an "always hot" power supply or did you wire it off of the ignition wire so that it would only crank in "run" position ?


My 1989 K1500 won't start in really cold weather because one of the tabs in broke off and you can't quite get the key switch to turn far enough to push the long rod to engage the starter position on the switch. Works fine above 20F or so. Rather than replace the switch I'm thinking about just adding a push button somewhere.


Years ago working at the service station, I changed the oil on a Land Rover 90. I don't know if it was factory or not, but the starter button was way up under the middle of the dash on the firewall. It was probably almost theft proof
The button gets its power from the ign slot in my fuse box thats under the dash. It only gets power when the key is in the on position.


Make sure you run an inline fuse



I ran a dedicated wire from the other terminal on the button to the starter solenoid. im sure i could have tapped into the yellow or green wire from the harness under the dash but I wanted to leave everything as is so one day I could fix it the right way
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May 2, 2015 | 03:41 PM
  #71290  
Removed the old saggy head liner, and made a new Hi-lift mount.
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May 2, 2015 | 03:45 PM
  #71291  
Quote: Removed the old saggy head liner, and made a new Hi-lift mount.
Did you repaint the ceiling after pulling the headliner or was that nice under the liner? Cuz if thats what it looks like under that saggy thing Im ripping mine out tomorrow!
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May 2, 2015 | 04:28 PM
  #71292  
Quote: Did you repaint the ceiling after pulling the headliner or was that nice under the liner? Cuz if thats what it looks like under that saggy thing Im ripping mine out tomorrow!
They're sprayed gray, usually... I've yet to see one that's been nasty or rusty.
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May 2, 2015 | 07:17 PM
  #71293  
Replaced the fluid in my transfer case since it was about 1k miles since the rebuild. No metal in the fluid, yay me

The #3 injector connector has a broken contact and stops working sometime, so I bought a repair connector while I was at NAPA and crimped it on while fluid was draining. I need to replace the harness or do a solder repair. Might just put the injector wires on a sub-harness with a weatherpack connector
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May 2, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #71294  
Quote: Which one did you go for, and how expensive was it?
The new Smittybilt one. Most of them seem to be the same general design, and that was the best price I could find. $850 to my door. I sprung for an awning to mount on the side. It'll be great for the extended road trips I am planning for this year.

Just got it put together and mounted on the XJ today. The weather cover when packed up rubs the top of my garage door! I didn't think It would be so close.
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May 2, 2015 | 10:59 PM
  #71295  
Little more progress on the "modified" radius arm set up that I'm building for my heep. Looking forward to seeing how it does.

 

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