What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Valles Mines, MO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finally got around to putting a 31 tooth speedo gear in. Five minutes after starting I was done and asking myself why in the world I didn't do it months ago!
Repainted 8.25 diff cover mounted & fresh Lucas 75w90 poured in.
Tinkered with my new ARB tire deflator that was delivered yesterday. Airs down to 13 lbs in what seemed like less than 2 mins....didn't time it.....and love that I can check the pressure in the process. Thinking I need a second one!
Finished the redo of prime (Stop Rust) & bed liner spray along folded rear wheel well edges & folded quarters.
Repainted 8.25 diff cover mounted & fresh Lucas 75w90 poured in.
Tinkered with my new ARB tire deflator that was delivered yesterday. Airs down to 13 lbs in what seemed like less than 2 mins....didn't time it.....and love that I can check the pressure in the process. Thinking I need a second one!
Finished the redo of prime (Stop Rust) & bed liner spray along folded rear wheel well edges & folded quarters.
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southern Maryland
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
You might want to consider using the jam-nuts. (not for fear of them twisting apart)
Without them, the threads will be taking all of the road-shock loads, and will eventually become a looser and looser fit.
Installing the jam-nuts will essentially lock the threads to the outer bar, and the road-shock loads will be transferred to the bushings like they should.
Without them, the threads will be taking all of the road-shock loads, and will eventually become a looser and looser fit.
Installing the jam-nuts will essentially lock the threads to the outer bar, and the road-shock loads will be transferred to the bushings like they should.
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Yes they are from Rusty's and the are about 1/8th of an inch thick which will be about double the normal thickness. I enlisted some help from a friend (Tim) to help, who is a little better at welding and he helped me get her tacked up but, first we welded the cracked frame. Then we tacked the plate in place working from the front to the back making sure we lined up all the hole. Now I just have to stitch weld everything till it is solid. I will just weld an inch or so welds spaced an inch apart (alternating from one end to the other so it won't overheat and warp things) around the outside edge.
Last edited by JandDGreens; 01-17-2015 at 09:40 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yeah I understand the principle. The counter argument is that the rubber bushings at both ends will absorb most of it if they yield first with the least resistance. I will see how tight it feels when its full of red and tacky, which should immobilize it pretty well (4" of packed threads), if there's any looseness I will use the jamb nuts.
Replaced fan shroud since previous one was busted and just too dangerous to not use one. Tip, buy a longer than standard wrench for the fan removal before you start if there is not room to slip the shroud in without removing the fan.
Replaced the door check arms because the popping on one side was annoying and replaced the other side because obsessive compulsive to always do both sides for any repair.
Replaced the door check arms because the popping on one side was annoying and replaced the other side because obsessive compulsive to always do both sides for any repair.
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
The entire thread is. When you tighten any fastener you don't just firm it up until it is touching. The point is to stretch the male portion of the thread inside the female portion so that it's tight and there is zero lateral movement. Otherwise the shock loading will strip the threads right off. Te stretching is what happens when you torque a bolt or nut, and why critical fasteners have zero or very few repeat uses, like axle U bolts.
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Except it puts all of the resistance on the jamb nut (and then that deforms).
If I can fully immobilize hydraulically, I can take advantage of the entire threaded sleeve.
If I cant then I'll use the jamb nut.
If I can fully immobilize hydraulically, I can take advantage of the entire threaded sleeve.
If I cant then I'll use the jamb nut.
::CF Administrator::
Yes they are from Rusty's and the are about 1/8th of an inch thick which will be about double the normal thickness. I enlisted some help from a friend (Tim) to help, who is a little better at welding and he helped me get her tacked up but, first we welded the cracked frame. Then we tacked the plate in place working from the front to the back making sure we lined up all the hole. Now I just have to stitch weld everything till it is solid. I will just weld an inch or so welds spaced an inch apart (alternating from one end to the other so it won't overheat and warp things) around the outside edge.
::CF Administrator::
Yeah I understand the principle. The counter argument is that the rubber bushings at both ends will absorb most of it if they yield first with the least resistance. I will see how tight it feels when its full of red and tacky, which should immobilize it pretty well (4" of packed threads), if there's any looseness I will use the jamb nuts.
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
39s? That's a cake walk for your super duty axles! You need some 44s man!
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output