One side done.

 

Had to work today but Sunday I built a storage rack/organizer for the cargo area. Spent $40 in materials. Eye-bolt tie downs on all 4 corners up top and two LED lights mounted for the underside.

 

Don't you worry! They were on, haha. My high school shop teacher beat a few good habits into me

 

Very nice

 

The only thing holding me up from finishing. My roomie said he'd give me a hand early to finish tomorrow

 

OK so it's been a while since I've posted any thing. I got my grill and headlight bezels in and got my 1awg battery cables out and made sure I have everything for the install in the morning and also got a new 160a alternator pics after everything is in.

 

Welded the 8.25. Works awesome in my little test spot, was able to drive up a dirt hill steep enough to rip my tail pipe off in 2wd

 

I've been thinking about doing that when I open the diff. You use stick or mig? I don't know if my Hobart 140 would do the job, but my pops has a. 220v stick

 

Finally finished my lift! Sits about 2" taller now.

 

I used my Hobart 220v stick with 7018/H4 rods. Taking the slag out from the stick welder kinda sucked but it worked

 

I finally got the flex plate inspection cover plate on. When I pulled it off, the bottom left bolt wouldn't come out, because it was blocked by the down pipe. The inspection cover is slotted to slide over the bolt, but it was angled such that it wouldn't clear the crank hub and the bolt at the same time. I pulled it off, but it was somewhat mangled when I got done. I attempted to put it back on, and I couldn't get all the tabs locked together and it was resting on the flex plate.

My solution, saw off the original bolt and use a new bolt. I also took the opportunity to clean the several layers of road grime mixed with everything that ever dripped out of the engine off the plate. I flattened the plate back out, and bolted it in place using the other 3 of the original bolts as they came out. For the 4th bolt, I used an M12x40mm flange head bolt and the original all-metal stop nut. It's not class 8.8 like the original, but since it's a 12mm bolt holding a little tin plate on, I think the overkill gods are still happy. I slid the bolt in forward from the back, with the nut on the front. at 40mm, it was just long enough to go all the way through the nut, but still short enough to clear the down pipe.

 

Changed the rear diff fluid. We'll do the front next week. Going to do the pinion seal on the front as well. Was planning on doing it today but just didn't feel like it.

Reading Bluelight's post reminded me. I got my inspection cover off as well. And I am the lucky winner of a cracked flex plate. YAAAY! Had 2 hair lines that I found. All the bolts were barely over finger tight and 1 of those is ovaled out pretty good. Anyway will probably try to change it when I fix my floors. Will be easier to paint and work underneath with it out anyway.

 

2" Lift Blocks? Get them out of there!
Use longer shackles instead.

 

Actually new leafs, angled blocks (great pinion angle now) and drop shackles. New coils up front with an acos system as well.

 

Since my suspension is now done I got my new shoes and an alignment