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What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #65026  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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It won't let air back in when I release the pedal?
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #65027  
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From: WV
Year: '96
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Keep all bleeders closed at the wheels. Fill the m/c. With lid on and the both fittings tight have the pedal pumped until there is no difference in feel(may get hard or may go to the floor)and hold it there. Crack open one fitting while pressure is kept on the pedal. When the pedal goes to the floor hold it there and tighten the fitting. Do this until you get no air and a solid pedal. Make sure to keep the m/c full. I do one line at a time. Once you've got both lines bled you can bleed the wheel cylinder starting at the fartherest and working you way to the m/c which I usually bleed again. Don't let the m/c get low at any time.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:21 PM
  #65028  
1999 xj's Avatar
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From: Edgewood
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bbk 62mm throttle body
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Took my son out today to play a bit

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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #65029  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Keep all bleeders closed at the wheels. Fill the m/c. With lid on and the both fittings tight have the pedal pumped until there is no difference in feel(may get hard or may go to the floor)and hold it there. Crack open one fitting while pressure is kept on the pedal. When the pedal goes to the floor hold it there and tighten the fitting. Do this until you get no air and a solid pedal. Make sure to keep the m/c full. I do one line at a time. Once you've got both lines bled you can bleed the wheel cylinder starting at the fartherest and working you way to the m/c which I usually bleed again. Don't let the m/c get low at any time.
Oooh OK so just bleed it like you would at the bleeder port except its with a line fitting lol. Got ya. Thanks guys.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #65030  
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From: Sparks, Nv
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by SG Mason
See being shorter, 5'8", has its advantages. Us short people can always get a ladder to get to the places we can't reach. You tall people will never comfortably fit into tighter spots
True! I'm 6'2 and damn my neck was killing me trying to fit in the back to get the tint off!
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #65031  
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From: Sparks, Nv
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by ThatDude114
I know what you mean. The factory tint on my '91 Limited is really dark, you've gotta get really close to see anything on the inside. And I still have the factory sunscreen/tinted windshield glass, and its so nice to have on sunny days!
Yeah idk if I want it that dark I wanna be able to kinda see at night! But I am getting that windshield strip especially in that Nevada sun!
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #65032  
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From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
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[QUOTE=DieselD;2899879]Oooh OK so just bleed it like you would at the bleeder port except its with a line fitting lol.

Sure would've been alot easier on my old fingers if I just would have said that. LOL But on these forums you never know who knows what so better safe than sorry.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #65033  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
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Right on. Had I not known anything your explanation was thorough and easy to understand.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 07:07 PM
  #65034  
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I APPRECIATE that.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 07:28 PM
  #65035  
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From: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by salad
I call BS. The trucks are driving around anyway. Putting the plows down is free - salt isn't. And I don't buy the argument about plows damaging the road surface, either: frost heave does enough.

Big problem is noone here can drive in snow and most cars have nearly-bald all-seasons.

Hey SGMason a buddy of mine from Mallorytown was telling me that magnesium chloride was starting to show up quite a lot in well water tests out there. Might be horse**** but got me thinkin'...



I guess to keep this post on topic I've removed the transmission crossmember and drive shafts, and found a fair bit of rot in the passenger side frame too. Currently evaluating buying a non-running body and plunking my goodies into it.
Guess I should have added the rolleyes thingy, I was being sarcastic about plowing being more expensive I wouldn't doubt that those on well water near major roads are seeing it in their water, gad knows they put enough of the stuff down.

Really sucks about the frame, I know more than once over the last year I have thought about giving up on the Stealth, but I have too much time and money into it already not to be able to enjoy it for a bit. I am guessing it will be road legal in about 2-3 weeks. I bought it as a project car and project cars are never finished My XJ on the other hand is going to be a tool, it just have to be safe and get from point A to point B by what ever route I choose
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #65036  
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Replaced the hatch handle, replaced a burnt out turn signal, oil change, new front brakes, tire rotation. And a bath
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #65037  
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From: Colorado Springs
Year: 1989
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Engine: I6 4.0
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Put the third coat of paint on my new leafs. I'm going to attempt to install them tomorrow. Depends on how long the front will take or any other factor that may happen to arise. I've never done a lift before so hopefully it will go smooth.
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your Cherokee today?-image-794660546.jpg  
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 10:00 PM
  #65038  
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From: Stanardsville, VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Installed some LED lights in the cargo area... Nice to be able to see something back there now... Tomorrow the LED bar gets wired in... Finally got the wiring through the firewall and put to the roof... All sealed and water-tight, just have to put on the weather-pack connectors...


Last edited by soundsmith89; Jul 19, 2014 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Image link...
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 10:13 PM
  #65039  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Ryno 82
Put the third coat of paint on my new leafs. I'm going to attempt to install them tomorrow. Depends on how long the front will take or any other factor that may happen to arise. I've never done a lift before so hopefully it will go smooth.
Looks sharp!

Tip for your first lift, be patient with the fasteners. Lots of penetrating oil, heat, and slow torque for the rear suspension. The front is a lot easier if you just chop off the bolts. New hardware front and rear is a very good idea!

Unless you live in the south, in which case you can probably do it in 20 minutes.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 11:07 PM
  #65040  
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From: Colorado Springs
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by salad
Looks sharp! Tip for your first lift, be patient with the fasteners. Lots of penetrating oil, heat, and slow torque for the rear suspension. The front is a lot easier if you just chop off the bolts. New hardware front and rear is a very good idea! Unless you live in the south, in which case you can probably do it in 20 minutes.
Thanks! I've been soaking everything everyday with pb for a month now. I also have an acetylene torch if need be. I'm on vacation all week so no rush at least. I have new hardware and new bushings as well. I even bought greaseable for the rear.
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