What did you do to your Cherokee today?
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Most "aux lights"aren't road legal. Regardless, there is no special rule for an "aux light". Usage of any lighting on the street requires a DOT-certified lamp installed in a manner that complies with all applicable regulation (height, beam pattern, number of lamps and/or total output), whether it's factory or not.
Perlux specs here http://www.grote.com/prodcat/perlux/
Perlux specs here http://www.grote.com/prodcat/perlux/
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
So you're aware they are not to be operated on the street?
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Michiana
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
H4 Headlight upgrade! IPF glass housings, High and Low beam relays, and home made harness. I did have the high beam staying on issue! pulling the delay module did not help. I did find that grounding the low beam relay direct. and using the ground (black) wire from the headlamp harness to ground the high beam relay did the trick. I only used the passenger side of the harness to control the relays. This could be why pulling the delay module did not solve the stuck on high beam issue. I have not yet dove into the schematics. (and if i have no issues with the fix I came up with I likely wont bother). I am sure I am not the first one to find this fix so I wont take credit for it.
And the Hella h4 100/55's are super bright! The relays also provide an extra 2 volts over what the stock harness supplied to the headlamps.
And the Hella h4 100/55's are super bright! The relays also provide an extra 2 volts over what the stock harness supplied to the headlamps.
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: California
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Manassas, VA
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30, Mobil 1 filter, new oil pressure sending unit, and flushed the heater core with water, also some new dot 3 brake fluid.
Last edited by OP_Rover; 01-12-2014 at 05:33 PM.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ware Shoals, SC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
12v to switch, switch out to relay #1 12v. Headlight power to relay #1 trigger. Relay out to relay#2 trigger.
Then battery 12v to relay#2. Relay out to lights.
That will allow lights on independent switch, but they cannot be turned on unless headlights are on.
You need some wiring experience to set it up.
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Year: 2003
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 CAI, programmed, flowmaster
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replaced my Positive Battery Cable...............
I switched my top-post battery terminals to "Marine" style terminals, so I could better fit my winch cables. I originally had my winch cables attatched to the side terminals on my Optima battery, but the threads stripped and I couldn't get them tight enough.
I decided to upgrade my starter cable in the process..............
The original starter cable is encased in a plastic block with the solenoid switch wire............I simply sliced it down the center with my air cutoff wheel to separate the two wires.
I chose a 1-gauge cable to replace the factory 4-gauge cable that was on there...........I ended up getting one alot longer than I needed, but I looped it around the battery to take up the extra length.
I made a 90-degree bend in the starter end, to match the original cable.
Replaced the greasy, broken factory wire loom with some new stuff.
Bolted them back on the starter, and then up at the battery.........
Now all my cables fit on 1 post.
The starter cable, the fuse-box cable, the power cable to my high-amp winch solenoids, and the small power wire to my fog lamp relay.
My Negative post has the main ground cable to the engine block, the body ground cable, both the front and rear winch ground cables, the ground wire from my winch solenoids, and a ground wire for the fog light relay.
This will do until I get dual batteries installed..................
I decided to upgrade my starter cable in the process..............
The original starter cable is encased in a plastic block with the solenoid switch wire............I simply sliced it down the center with my air cutoff wheel to separate the two wires.
I chose a 1-gauge cable to replace the factory 4-gauge cable that was on there...........I ended up getting one alot longer than I needed, but I looped it around the battery to take up the extra length.
I made a 90-degree bend in the starter end, to match the original cable.
Replaced the greasy, broken factory wire loom with some new stuff.
Bolted them back on the starter, and then up at the battery.........
Now all my cables fit on 1 post.
The starter cable, the fuse-box cable, the power cable to my high-amp winch solenoids, and the small power wire to my fog lamp relay.
My Negative post has the main ground cable to the engine block, the body ground cable, both the front and rear winch ground cables, the ground wire from my winch solenoids, and a ground wire for the fog light relay.
This will do until I get dual batteries installed..................
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Winches work so much better with dual batteries. I had 2Group 31s in my Landcruiser.
CF Veteran
Installed some cheap ebay tweeters I bought last week. Didn't know how much of difference they made until today. Defiantly worth the $6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Put my LED's and A pillar brackets up for sale, someone go buy them.
Then I can take them off and make a post about it.
Then I can take them off and make a post about it.