In CA if you read the law about off road light and auxiliary driving lights it doesn't say anything, that i have found, about having to be DOT approved. Just where they can be mounted and if they have to be covered or not.

 

So you're aware they are not to be operated on the street?

 

H4 Headlight upgrade! IPF glass housings, High and Low beam relays, and home made harness. I did have the high beam staying on issue! pulling the delay module did not help. I did find that grounding the low beam relay direct. and using the ground (black) wire from the headlamp harness to ground the high beam relay did the trick. I only used the passenger side of the harness to control the relays. This could be why pulling the delay module did not solve the stuck on high beam issue. I have not yet dove into the schematics. (and if i have no issues with the fix I came up with I likely wont bother). I am sure I am not the first one to find this fix so I wont take credit for it.
And the Hella h4 100/55's are super bright! The relays also provide an extra 2 volts over what the stock harness supplied to the headlamps.

 

Replaced the front and rear seals on the transmission, cleaned out the pan and gonna paint them tomorrow.

 

Depends on how into the specifics of the law you want to get into. But yes I know when and where it is safe to use them

 

Good guys. AK is cool as ****.

 

Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30, Mobil 1 filter, new oil pressure sending unit, and flushed the heater core with water, also some new dot 3 brake fluid.

 

Basically you need two relays.

12v to switch, switch out to relay #1 12v. Headlight power to relay #1 trigger. Relay out to relay#2 trigger.
Then battery 12v to relay#2. Relay out to lights.

That will allow lights on independent switch, but they cannot be turned on unless headlights are on.

You need some wiring experience to set it up.

 

Yeah we had a good time, AK is pretty funny, bunch of Nova Jeepers there. Exciting news about the offroad park they are organizing, gonna check it out soon.

 

Well. So much for that ramp lol

 

Thanks to bigredlimited88 I got the "correct" fitting for my tranny cooler line and finished up putting the new radiator in my zj.

 

I switched my top-post battery terminals to "Marine" style terminals, so I could better fit my winch cables. I originally had my winch cables attatched to the side terminals on my Optima battery, but the threads stripped and I couldn't get them tight enough.
I decided to upgrade my starter cable in the process..............

The original starter cable is encased in a plastic block with the solenoid switch wire............I simply sliced it down the center with my air cutoff wheel to separate the two wires.



I chose a 1-gauge cable to replace the factory 4-gauge cable that was on there...........I ended up getting one alot longer than I needed, but I looped it around the battery to take up the extra length.



I made a 90-degree bend in the starter end, to match the original cable.


Replaced the greasy, broken factory wire loom with some new stuff.


Bolted them back on the starter, and then up at the battery.........
Now all my cables fit on 1 post.
The starter cable, the fuse-box cable, the power cable to my high-amp winch solenoids, and the small power wire to my fog lamp relay.


My Negative post has the main ground cable to the engine block, the body ground cable, both the front and rear winch ground cables, the ground wire from my winch solenoids, and a ground wire for the fog light relay.


This will do until I get dual batteries installed..................

 

Winches work so much better with dual batteries. I had 2Group 31s in my Landcruiser.

 

Installed some cheap ebay tweeters I bought last week. Didn't know how much of difference they made until today. Defiantly worth the $6

 

Put my LED's and A pillar brackets up for sale, someone go buy them.

Then I can take them off and make a post about it.