Ahh I see

Got the trans pan out of my parts Jeep to put on my 91 Cleaned it. Bought a trans filter and pan gasket. Prolly save that for my 99 and buy just a gasket for the 91 since I didn't need it today.

I'm going to start to clean it up and get ready to sell it. I can't keep throwing money and time at it. I'm selling it to buy a Civic. At last I'll still have my wife's xj to drive.

We've all been there... somehow I keep coming back to cherokees. .

Attempting to get the alignment corrected...

Got high centered on a stump and inherited a new battle scar.

bolts on the passenger side motormount bracket sheered off, motor was setting on the oil filter, and distributor, so i had to get it towed to greg's automotive, he quoted me a price of 140 for the repairs, and of course ill have to pay for the tow. greg has done much work for me in the past on a few cars, so i trust them. i was gonna attempt the repair my self, but it was just too daunting.

Bought him a friend! 2001 4 door 4.0 automagic with NP231, summers and winters, and the requisite rust. Drove before the winter and now the battery's dead. Looks fixable and not just a parts Jeep. $300 lol. Sadly I didn't snap any pics on account of the rain. Power was out at the seller's place, almost ran into a hydro truck on my way up there!


What I did get a pic of is how I discovered just how important the inner fender liner is:

Make sure he's aware of this:



From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com
　
　

This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

Pool noodle fixes that

Nah I still got em. Just out during painting, this was yesterday but instead of posting I went to bed

Not a Cherokee, but a Comanche. Washed and waxed it.

Nicest Pioneer I've ever seen!

Notice the Pioneer lettering is missing?

4.0 Auto, NP231, full skidplates, vinyl bucket seats, Dana 44 posi, AC etc.

Oh come on. When's the stroker going in?