What did you do to your Cherokee today?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
That's why I wrote this:
Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.
I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
Revised 03-09-12
Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement.
I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
Revised 03-09-12
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,169
Likes: 6
From: York, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Something doesn't quite look right in the rear there. Are those factory flat leafs? I'd get those replaced...lol otherwise looks awesome. What did you use for the bottom of the doors? I have a Gunmetal Pearl XJ as well
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 260
Likes: 1
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hood Lifts. I am happy with it, however it required some modification on my '94;
I have to space out the computer because was hitting it, I used 3/4" aluminum spacers and 3" 10mm screws:
https://i.imgur.com/UBAcx7a.jpg
I also had to modify the the air box a bit, I cut the first tab on the lower box off and I cut the first two on the upper box:
https://i.imgur.com/Oez8Lih.jpg
Done:
https://i.imgur.com/UIoJcDT.jpg
I have to space out the computer because was hitting it, I used 3/4" aluminum spacers and 3" 10mm screws:
https://i.imgur.com/UBAcx7a.jpg
I also had to modify the the air box a bit, I cut the first tab on the lower box off and I cut the first two on the upper box:
https://i.imgur.com/Oez8Lih.jpg
Done:
https://i.imgur.com/UIoJcDT.jpg
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 380
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver BC
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0
Nice what brand brackets did you go with? did the same to my 98 and my *** end sits up about an inch more :S
Last edited by XJ=mistress; Apr 19, 2013 at 09:25 AM.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm gonna guess HD Offroad.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Pensacola, Fl
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
-Finishing factory fog light rewiring (I dislike PO very much)
-Installed Hood Pins (PO ruined the latch mechanism WITH WELDING!!! WTF?!)
-Cleaned and Repainted Grill and Light Bezels
-Angry Eyes
-12v Power Distribution in the Cabin
-Installed Hood Pins (PO ruined the latch mechanism WITH WELDING!!! WTF?!)
-Cleaned and Repainted Grill and Light Bezels
-Angry Eyes
-12v Power Distribution in the Cabin
