Hello everyone,

Since I have had my XJ I have had to replace the oil pan gasket twice going on third. My first time not knowing what to get I got the cork gasket after it started leaking 6 months, I did my research here and found out its best to use the blue gasket with the metal insert and so I did that a little over a year ago. Well now that one started leaking.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.. I clean the pan edge really well and the engine block edge with degreaser, put a little gasket maker on the oil pan edge before placing the gasket so it doesnt move around while manuvering it into the block...

I'm going to change the gasket this weekend and I wanted to ask you guys if its typical for the leak to return after a year or the step of adding gasket maker is causing my leaks or what should I do to ensure no leaks for longer than a year?

Thanks in advance

By the way the leak shows up at the front of the engine and around the back... I will also be doing the crank seal this time around just wanted to note the leak is not isolated to the crank seal it shows up in the front too. Thanks again

 

It is hard to determine if the leaks are coming from the crank seals or the oil pan when they both leak. I found that just red hi temp gasket sealer works best. The rubber gasket for me always leaked on the back of the oil pan after a year or two. Try no gasket and just use the red sealer, put some on the pan and on the engine in the back and front half moons.

Hope you get your pan fixed

 

I don't use any RTV on the rubber gaskets except in the corners on the halfmoon sections, the RTV can cause the rubber gasket to slide out of place when you cinch the pan bolts down. Too much RTV can cause real problems when globs of it clogs the oil pickup screen. Look at the blown up engines at the boneyard, you may notice most of them are slathered in orange or blue RTV.

 

My opinion..

I dont see how guys claim they can adhere the gasket to the oilpan and then place it to the block and not get a leak..eventually.

If you notice the front and rear needs to seat properly on/in the bottom of timing cover and the rear main bearing cap. This typically doesnt happen when lifting it up as an assembly.

What i do is adhere the gasket to the block, seating the front and rear sections correctly. Using medium strength Hi-Tack and the factory oil pan bolts run up finger tight and let it cure overnight.

Next day quickly remove the bolts and carefully seat the oilpan without bumping the gasket.. get the bolts up at ends finger tight. Then install the rest of the bolts and gradually torque starting in center.